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英語週15時間＋ゴルフ
全コース日程
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ゴルフレッスン時間割
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165、000円 （学費、ホームステイ費用、ゴルフレッスン費用含む）
一週間 （ゴルフレッスン週6時間含む）
１８歳以上
不要（観光ビザETASのみ）
月〜金：9:00〜10:30（授業）、10:30~11:00（休憩）、11:00〜12:30（授業）、
月〜日：13:30以降〜（ゴルフ）＊週6時間のレッスンを振り分けます
ホームステイ（平日２食・週末３食付きの個室）
ケアンズカレッジオブイングリッシュアンドビジネス (CCEB)
毎週月曜日（月曜日が祝日の際は翌火曜日） |
STUDENT BIO
ゴルフスイングとファイルをアップロード
VIDEO LIBRARY (INCLUDING GOLF IMPROVEMENT DRILLS)
英語のゴルフ会話
ONLINE CLASSROOM オンライン教室
INTERNET GOLF LESSONS インターネット上ゴルフレッスン
MY ROUND CALCULATIONS ラウンドチェックリスト
ONLINE CLASSROOM
· 1. Introduction to golf
The Game Of Golf
A game in which clubs with wooden or metal heads are used to hit a small, white ball into a number of holes, usually 9 or 18, in succession, situated at various distances over a course having natural or artificial obstacles, the object being to get the ball into each hole in as few strokes as possible.
Play of the game
Every game of golf is based on playing a number of holes in a given order. A round typically consists of 18 holes that are played in the order determined by the course layout. On a nine-hole course, a standard round consists of two successive nine-hole rounds. A hole of golf consists of hitting a ball from a tee on the teeing box (a marked area designated for the first shot of a hole, a tee shot), and once the ball comes to rest, striking it again. This process is repeated until the ball is in the cup. Once the ball is on the green (an area of finely cut grass) the ball is usually putted (hit along the ground) into the hole. The idea of resting the ball in the hole in as few strokes as possible may be impeded by various hazards, such as bunkers and water hazards.
Players walk (or drive in motorized carts) over the course, either singly or in groups of two, three, or four, sometimes accompanied by caddies who carry and manage the players' equipment and give them advice. Each player plays a ball from the tee to the hole, except that in the mode of play called foursomes two teams of two players compete, and the members of each team alternate shots using only one ball until the ball is holed out. When all individual players or teams have brought a ball into play, the player or team whose ball is the farthest from the hole is next to play. In some team events a player whose ball is farther from the hole may ask his partner to play first. When all players of a group have completed the hole, the player or team with the best score on that hole has the honor, that is, the right to tee off first on the next tee.
Each player acts as marker for one other player in the group, that is, he or she records the score on a score card. In stroke play, the score consists of the number of strokes played plus any penalty strokes incurred. Penalty strokes are not actually strokes but penalty points that are added to the score for violations of rules or utilizing relief procedures.
What is the origin of the word "golf"?
The word "golf" is not an acronym for anything. Rather, it derives linguistically from the Dutch word "kolf" or "kolve," meaning quite simply "club." In the Scottish dialect of the late fourteenth or early fifteenth century, the Dutch term became "goff" or "gouff," and only later in the sixteenth century "golf." The linguistic connections between the Dutch and Scottish terms are but one reflection of what was a very active trade industry between the Dutch ports and the ports on the east coast of Scotland throughout the fourteenth through seventeenth centuries. Some scholars suggest that the Dutch game of "kolf," played with a stick and ball on frozen canals in the wintertime, was brought by the Dutch sailors to the east coast of Scotland, where it was transferred on to the public linkslands and eventually became the game we know today.
ONLINE CLASSROOM
1. Introduction to golf
History Of Golf, And Other Facts And Figures
One of the basic fundamentals of golf is its history. Most other sports such as basketball, baseball, tennis and football, trace their roots back to the second half of the 19th century. For example baseball was founded in 1871.
However, golf is different. Golf's history goes back more than 550 years. There is evidence which states that the game, or a form of it, may have been played in China hundreds of years before that. The most accepted story is that golf started in Scotland in the early 1400s.
The first written reference to golf came in 1457, when the King of Scotland, James II, demanded a formal Art of Parliament to make playing golf illegal. It seemed that many of his soldiers were spending more time playing golf than they were practicing their archery.
* Think about that date: we know for a fact that golf was being played in Scotland 35 years before Columbus discovered America! *
A Chronological history of leading events in golf
The following is a partial timeline of the history of golf:
1354 -
The first recorded reference to "chole", the probable antecedent of golf. It is a derivative of hockey played in Flanders.
1421 -
A Scottish regiment aiding the French against the English at the Siege of Bauge is introduced to the game of chole. Hugh Kennedy, Robert Stewart and John Smale, three of the identified players, are credited with introducing the game in Scotland.
1457 -
Golf was banned by James II after a noticeable decline in the quality of Archery marksmanship.
1491 -
King James IV of Scotland reinstated golf as a legal activity.
1567 -
Queen Mary was 'accused' by her countrymen of playing golf, within two weeks of the murder of her husband.
1592 -
The town council of Edinburgh issued a proclamation against playing golf at LEITH on Sunday's. 'In tyme of sermonis'.
1618 -
Introduction of the 'feathery' ball.
1637 -
A man was convicted of stealing golf balls and sentenced to death.
1657 -
Record of colonists in Albany, NY playing golf... on the ice!
1718 -
A manuscript was published in England saying golf is the enemy of the medical professional because it was keeping people too healthy.
1718 -
A manuscript was published in England saying golf is the enemy of the medical professional because it was keeping people too healthy.
1743 -
Publication of "The Goff", the first book dedicated entirely to the sport.
1744 -
Drafting of the 13 Articles, the first rules of golf.
1748 -
A record of golf clubs and balls being shipped from Scotland to Russia, 250 years before the first golf course was built there.
1754 -
The course at St. Andrews, Scotland (now known as "The Old Course") consisted of 22 holes, and the St. Andrews Society declared that to be the standard.
1764 -
St. Andrews was reconfigured from 22 holes to 18 holes because some holes were too short; the standard has been 18 holes ever since.
1770 -
First record of clubs being offered in a catalogue.
1841 -
Invention of 'Gutta-Percha' golf ball.
1848 -
Introduction of the first "Gutta Percha" ball, made from the gutta percha trees in India. Prior to this, golf balls had been leather bags filled with feathers.
1857 -
World's first golf instructional book was written by "A Keen Hand".
1860 -
The first British Open championship was played.
1895 -
The first United States Open was played.
1901 -
Invention of the rubber-core Haskell Ball.
1916 -
The first PGA Championship was played.
1921 -
The Royal & Ancient golf club; Introduced the first limitations on the size and weight of balls.
1931 -
Dr Stableford of Liverpool devised a points scoring game as a variation away from Par & Stroke play.
1934 -
The first Masters Tournament was played.
1934 -
End of an era for Hickory Shafted golf clubs. Introduction of steel.
1935 -
The Sand Wedge was invented by American Gene Sarazen.
1947 -
The first U. S. Women's Open was played.
1951 -
Abolition of the "STYMIE".
1968 -
The game of Stableford received official blessing from the R&A and was incorporated into the rules of golf.
1975 -
Tiger Woods date of birth 30th December 1975.
1982 -
Discussion aimed at limiting the distance obtainable from modern ball. (Rendering classic old courses obsolete).
1985 -
Introduction of 'Metal Woods' onto the market (Fine Persimmon timber had become rare).
Milestones in the development of the rules of golf
1744 -
First written code of rules. Rule 1 stated: "You must tee your ball within a club's length of the hole."
1850 -
With the introduction of the 'Gutta Percha' ball, a new rule provided that if a ball broke up in flight another ball could be dropped without penalty where the largest piece was found.
1891 -
Time allowed in searching for a ball reduced from 10 to five minutes.
1897 -
Formation of the R & A Rules of Golf Committee.
1909 -
Limits on the form and make of clubs applied for the first time.
1922 -
Restrictions on the size and weight of golf balls imposed in an effort to limit the distance they would travel.
1929 -
Steel shafts became legal for the first time.
1939 -
Only 14 clubs to be carried from this date.
1949 -
To stop the spread of slow play, committees were empowered to disqualify players who unduly delayed others. Modified in 1952 to loss of hole or two-stroke penalty, with disqualification for repeated offences.
1952 -
First world code agreed between R&A and US Golf Association. Stymie abolished - players no longer forced to chip over an opponent's ball coming to rest between their ball and the hole in match play..
1960 -
Distance measuring devices banned.
1984 -
Ball no longer dropped over the player's shoulder, but at arm's length and at shoulder height.
1990 -
The 1.68-inch ball becomes the only legal ball, marking the demise of the 1.62 inch British ball.
ONLINE CLASSROOM
1. Introduction to golf
What Makes Up A Golf Course?
The anatomy of a golf course; Golf is played in an area of land designated the course. The course consists of a series of holes; hole or cup meaning both the pit in the ground to which the ball is played and the distance from the tee (the pre-determined point from where a ball is first struck into play) to the green (the low cut grass surrounding the hole). Most golf courses consist of eighteen holes.
Definitions- What makes up the course?
The Definitions section of the Rules of Golf contains over forty Definitions, which form the foundation around which the Rules of play are written. A good knowledge of the defined terms will help in the correct application of the Rules. These include:
Teeing Ground
The starting place for the hole, defined by two tee-markers. The first stroke on each hole is hit from the Tee (officially, teeing ground), where the player can use a tee (a small wooden or plastic peg), which makes the tee shot easier. Before the modern tee came into use, early golfers often used a small pyramid or block of sand to hold the ball. Most courses offer a range of Tee boxes to play from depending on a player's skill or handicap, making the hole longer or shorter depending on which Tees the player starts at. Often, the different Tee boxes have names associated with degree of competence (e.g., Professional and Amateur Tees), or by sex and age (Men's, Ladies', Senior, etc.). In addition to a difference in distance, the different Tees may also eliminate or reduce the danger of some hazards for the "Forward" tees, such as water hazards.
In golf, the teeing ground is the area at the beginning of a hole from which the player's first stroke is taken. When referring to the area, the terms "tee", "tee box", and "teeing ground" are often used interchangeably.
The boundaries of the teeing ground are defined by a pair of tee markers. The front, left and right sides of the tee are denoted by the outer edges of the tee markers, assuming the perspective of a player standing in the teeing ground and facing the hole. The teeing ground is two club-lengths in depth.
Most courses have at least three sets of tee markers (some may have six or more), each a different color and denoting different yardages. Some commonly used tee marker colors are below, along with a general description of who plays from what color. The tee box that a person plays from is not set by rules; in casual play, anyone can use any tee box they wish to. Note that not all courses have all colors, and some may use a completely different color scheme for their tee markers.
Fairway (Closely mown area extending from tee box to green)
After teeing off, the player again hits the ball to the green from where it came to rest, either from the fairway or from the rough. Exceptions are short par three holes, where the second shot may lie directly on the putting green or in the rough. Playing the ball from the fairway is advantageous, because fairway grass is very short and even, allowing the player to cleanly strike the ball, while playing from the rough is disadvantageous, because the grass in the rough is generally much longer, which may affect the flight of the ball.
While many holes are designed in a straight line from the tee-off point to the green, some of the holes may bend either to the left or to the right. This is called a "dogleg", in reference to a dog's knee. The hole is called a "dogleg left" if the hole angles leftwards, and vice versa; rarely, a hole's direction can bend twice, and is called a "double dogleg."
Putting Green
To putt is to play a stroke using the putter club. Usually, this stroke is played on the green where the ball does not leave the ground. Once on the green, the ball is putted (struck with the eponymous flat-faced club to roll it along the ground) towards the hole until the ball falls into the cup. The grass of the putting green (more commonly the green) is cut very short so that a ball can roll distances of several yards. The growth direction of the blades of grass affects the golf ball's roll and is called the grain of the green. The slope or break of the green also affects the roll of the ball. The cup is always found within the green (at least ten feet from the edge), and must have a diameter of 108 mm (4.25 in.) and a depth of at least 100 mm (3.94 in.). Its position on the green is not fixed and may be changed from day to day. The cup usually has a flag on a pole positioned in it so that it identifies the holes position on the green, and may be seen from a distance, but not necessarily from the tee; this flag-and-pole combination is called the pin.
Putting greens are not all of the same quality. Generally, the finest-quality greens are well kept so that a ball will smoothly roll over the closely-mowed grass. Golfers describe a green as fast if a light stroke to the ball makes it roll a long distance, conversely, a slow green is one where a stronger stroke is required to roll the ball the required distance; a stimp meter is used to determine and measure the exact speed of a green. More than one green is measured, the average of the measured greens is used to determine how fast or slow a Golf Course's greens are. These measurements are compared with other courses' Stimp Metre measurements.
Apron/Fringe:
The grass surface on the perimeter of the green that separates it from the fairway.
Through the Green:
The whole area of the golf course except the teeing ground and putting green of the hole being played and all hazards.
Hazards (any bunker or water hazard)
Many holes include hazards, which may be of three types:
Bunker
A bunker or sand trap is a hazard in the game of golf. It is a depression near the green or fairway that is filled with sand. It is difficult to hit the ball out of the bunker and entering it is therefore considered punitive to a golfer who misses the target with the previous shot. A club called a "sand wedge" is designed for extracting the ball from a bunker, a process requiring well-developed skill. After a player is done using the "bunker" or "sand trap," it is his or his caddie's job to rake the area of the sand disturbed during play. There are specific rules governing play from a bunker [please refer to the Rules of Golf].
There are three types of bunkers used in golf course architecture and all are designed to be impediments to the golfer's progress toward the green.
Water Hazards
Like bunkers, are natural obstacles designed to add both visual interest and difficulty to a golf course. Water hazards are typically either streams or ponds, situated between the teeing ground and the hole.
The borders of a golf course are marked, and play beyond them is out of bounds, (sometimes referred by the slang term, "Oscar Brown" or simply, "OB") that are, ground from which a ball must not be played, i.e. not part of the course and play is prohibited.
If a golfer hits the ball out of the course, into the "out of bounds", the player must hit a ball from nearly the same position as the original ball was played, with a penalty of one stroke.
A ball is out of bounds when all of it lies out of bounds.
Other Areas
Some areas of the course are designated as ground under repair ("G.U.R."), where greens-keepers are affecting repairs or where the course is damaged. A ball coming to rest in this spot may be lifted, and then played from outside the G.U.R. without penalty. Certain man-made objects on the course are defined as obstructions (i.e. distance posts, gardens, et cetera), and specific rules determine how a golfer may proceed when the play is impeded by these.
A handicap is obtained when a player has handed in five * 18 hole score cards. The actual handicap number is calculated from the average score of the 5 score cards, however in some cases there is a limit to the maximum score that a payer can shoot. Please check with the management of your respective golf club.
Driving Range
Often, there is a practice range or driving range, usually with practice greens, bunkers, and driving areas. Markers showing distances are usually included on a practice range to benefit the golfer. There may even be a practice course (often shorter and easier to play than full scale golf courses), where golfers practice to measure how far they can hit with a specific club or to improve their swing technique.
Golf Course And Holes
Example of Par 3:
91 - 224 metres long
(100-250 yds)
One Stroke (reachable) On the Green & Two Putts
Example of Par 4:
225 - 434 metres long
(251-475 yds)
Two Strokes (reachable) On the Green & Two Putts
Example of Par 5:
424 - 621 metres long
(476-690 yds)
Three Strokes (reachable) On the Green & Two Putts
ONLINE CLASSROOM
1. Introduction to golf
Info On Clubs And Balls, are other necessary equipment
Golf Clubs:
Maximum number of clubs per bag is 14
Beginners ½ set:
Irons: 3, 5, 7, 9, Sand iron, 3 wood and Putter
Standard Full Set:
Used for putting on the Greens where turf are closely mown.
Iron
Used on the fairway for specific distance or approach shots. Also used on short holes for teeing off.
Wood, Metal & Persimmon
Used on the Teeing Ground (Tee-Boxes) for tee-shots or start of each hole.
Lofts have gradually changed over the past 30 years (look at the chart), so picking the best 14 may need re-assessment.
1970 irons
2000 irons (ideal)
Type
Loft
Length
Type
Loft
Length
Driver
11 degrees
43.5 inches
Driver
9 degrees
44 inches
3-wood
15 degrees
42 inches
3-wood
14 degrees
43 inches
2-iron
20 degrees
38.5 inches
2-iron
19 degrees
39.5 inches
3-iron
24 degrees
38 inches
3-iron
22 degrees
39 inches
4-iron
28 degrees
37.5 inches
4-iron
25 degrees
38.5 inches
5-iron
32 degrees
37 inches
5-iron
28 degrees
38 inches
6-iron
36 degrees
36.5 inches
6-iron
31 degrees
37.5 inches
7-iron
40 degrees
36 inches
7-iron
34 degrees
37 inches
8-iron
44 degrees
35.5 inches
8-iron
37 degrees
36.5 inches
9-iron
48 degrees
35 inches
9-iron
42 degrees
36 inches
PW
52 degrees
35 inches
PW
48 degrees
35.5 inches
SW
56 degrees
35 inches
SW
54 degrees
35.5 inches
LW
LW
60 degrees
35 inches
In making a decision, work up from the wedges, trying to keep the loft gap between the pitching, sand and lob fairly even (eg. 48, 54 and 60 degrees).
Otherwise you'll have trouble controlling distance on approach shots.
ONLINE CLASSROOM
1. Introduction to golf
What Do You Need In Your Golf Bag?
Other essentials:
Rule Book
Balls
Umbrella
Water-proofs
Tees
Markers
Pens/Pencils
Clothing
Golf glove
Club head Covers
Towel
Snacks:
Fruit (Banana is the best),
1 fruit & nut mixture,
1 pre-prepared drink essential in summer.
First aid:
Preventative medicine,
Band aids/Elastoplasts,
Ventolin for asthmatics
and most importantly sun block (30+ is preferred for outdoor sports).
ONLINE CLASSROOM
1. Introduction to golf
Basic Golfing Terminologies & Definitions
A
Address
:
The positioning of the body and the club in order to hit the ball in a desired direction.
Ace
:
Hole in one, usually on par 3's.
Albatross
:
A score of 2 on a par 5.
Advice on the course
:
Comments given to a fellow player the may influence that players decision on how to play his next shot.
Alignment
:
The alignment of the body relative to the target.
Arc
:
The shape of the club head's path that it describes while swinging.
Attending the flag
:
Holding the flag in place in readiness for your opponent's play on the green.
B
Backspin
:
The rotation of the ball such that the rear of the ball (as viewed by the player) rotates downwards.
Back swing
:
That part of the golf swing from address to the change of direction at the top.
Balance(Static)
:
The relationship of the body's center of gravity to the enclosed area of the feet.
Balance(Dynamic)
:
The stability of the body during the motion of the golf swing.
Ball Position
:
The position of the ball relative to the feet - the absolute distance from the feet relative to the length of the golf club being used.
Birdie
:
One under par.
Bogey
:
One over Par.
Block
:
A shot that goes straight right, without curving, (based on a right hander).
Bowed
:
The state of the target wrist when the hand is rotated towards the body.
Bunker
:
A hazard filled with sand, can be fairway as well as bunker.
Butt
:
The top of the handle of the golf club.
C
Caddie
:
A person other than the player who carries the golf bag for a player.
Casual Water
:
Any temporary accumulation of water on the course which is visible before or after the player takes his stance and is not a water hazard. Snow and ice are either casual water or loose impediments, at the option of the player, except that manufactured ice is an obstruction. Dew is not casual water.
Closed Face
:
The angle of the clubface at impact when it is rotated anticlockwise relative to a perpendicular to the target line. (For a right hand golfer).
Cupped
:
The state of the target wrist when the hand is rotated away from the body.
D
Divot
:
A piece of turf cut out of the ground by the action of striking the ball from the ground.
Down The Line
:
When the club shaft is parallel to the target line.
Downswing
:
That part of the swing from the change of direction at the top to impact.
Draw
:
When the ball curves gently from right to left in the air due to imparted sidespin. (For a right handed golfer).
Driver
:
The club that can hit the furthest, usually the longest in the bag.
E
Eagle
:
Two under the regulation par of any given hole.
Embedded ball
:
The condition of the ball when sunken below the level of the ground or sand.
F
Face
:
The hitting surface of the golf club.
Fairway
:
An area on each hole that is designated to be the safest location to play from, this grass in this area is trimmed down to allow for good contact to occur.
Face On
:
The view of the frontal plane of the golfer (a mirror image of the observer).
Fade
:
When the balls curves gently from left to right in the air due to imparted side spin. (For a right handed golfer).
Fat
:
When the ball is struck above the center of gravity of the clubface or the ground is struck before the ball.
Finish
:
The end of the swing when the arms and body have come to rest.
Flag stick
:
A pole with a flag attached to indicate the location of the hole on the green.
Flat Wrist
:
The state of the target wrist when the hand is in line with the forearm.
Flier
:
The lively ball response that occurs when a lubricant (usually grass juice) is trapped between the clubface and the ball at impact.
Fore-caddie
:
A "forecaddie" is one who is employed by the Committee to indicate to players the position of balls during play. He is an outside agency.
G
Gimmie
:
A putt of such short distance that it is expected to be holed without the need for a careful set up.
G.U.R.
:
Ground under repair, if your ball is within this marked area you are allowed a free drop no nearer the hole.
Green
:
The location designated as the target area for each hole.
Grip
:
The position of the hands on the handle of the golf club.
Grounding the club
:
When in a Hazard the rules forbid you to place the club on the ground, in case you improve your lie.
H
Handicapper
:
A person designated by the golf club to manage and administer Handicaps.
Hanging Lie
:
When the ball is below your feet in your address position.
Hazard
:
An area within the golf course where you are not permitted to ground your club could be bunkers, water, or ground.
Heel
:
The part of the clubface closest to the hosel.
Hole
:
The place where the flagstick rests in, the place where ultimately the ball must finish in to determine your score for each hole you play.
Holed out
:
Means that you have completed a hole in golf.
Honor
:
The side entitled to play first from the teeing ground is said to have the "honor." The person who had the best nett score on the previous hole, or has the lowest Handicap, will have to right to hit first.
Hook
:
When the ball curves severely from right to left in the air due to imparted sidespin. (For right handed golfer).
Hosel
:
The part of the club head that connects to the shaft.
I
Impact
:
The point in time when the clubface first contacts the ball.
Inside
:
When the arms and/ or club shaft is on the body side of the desired position.
Interlocking grip
:
A type of grip where the little finger of the right hand links with the index finger of the left. (For right-handers).
L
Lie
:
Condition of the ground below the ball.
Lateral water hazard
:
A water hazard or that part of a water hazard so situated that it is not possible or is deemed by the Committee to be impracticable to drop a ball behind the water hazard in accordance with Rule 26-1b. That part of the water hazard to be played as lateral water hazard should be distinctively marked. Note: Lateral water hazards should be defined by red stakes or lines.
Local rules
:
Special rules especially create for the specific needs of each golf course.
Lost Ball
:
A ball is "lost" if it is not found or identified as his by the player within five minutes after the player's side or his or their caddies have begun to search for it.
Loose impediments
:
Natural objects such as stones, leaves, twigs, branches and the like, dung, worms and insects and casts or heaps made by them, provided they are not fixed or growing, are solidly embedded and do not adhere to the ball. Sand and loose soil are loose impediments on the putting green, but not elsewhere. Snow and ice are either casual water or loose impediment, at the option of the player, except that manufactured ice is a movable obstruction.Dew is not a loose impediment.
M
Marker
:
A "marker" is one who is appointed by the Committee to record a competitor's score in stroke play. He may be a fellow-competitor. He is not a referee.
Match play
:
A type of match where it is played head to head.
Medal play
:
A type of game where you have to count all your strokes, also called stroke play.
Metal Woods
:
The name used to describe the material used to make modern Woods.
N
Nap
:
Texture of the green.
Neutral
:
When the grip is not rotated away from the natural position.
O
Open
:
When the angle of the clubface is likely to produce an open clubface at impact (for any position of the swing).
Open Face
:
The angle of the clubface at impact when it is rotated clockwise relative to a perpendicular to the target line. (For right hand golfer).
O.O.B.
:
Out of Bounds.
Outside
:
When the arms and/ or club shaft are on the outside (away from the body) of the desired position.
Outside agency
:
An object, which is not an integral part of the golf course.
P
Par
:
A score that a good player is expected to shoot on any given golf hole, the method being, drive on fairway, on the green in regulation, then 2 putts.
Path
:
The direction of the club relative to the target line.
Penalty
:
Incurred when a breach of the rules has occurred.
Pitching
:
A shot that ranges in distance from 20 yards to 100 yards. Less than full effort is used.
Pitchfork
:
An instrument used to repair marks on the green made by the ball landing.
Pivot
:
The motion of the legs and torso during the swing.
Plane
:
The notional two-dimension surface that the club shaft is traveling on at any time.
Plane Line
:
A line that is parallel to the target line and passes through the point where a line that is an extension of the shaft hits the ground.
Position 1 - 10
:
Static positions of the swing that are used as checkpoints for the geometric integrity of the swing.
Posture
:
The shape of the body in terms of joint angles (particularly the back).
Provisional ball
:
A second ball hit into play when the player is unsure of the first one is still in play or not.
Pull
:
When the plane of motion has been rotated to the left (for a right handed golfer) during the swing.
Push
:
When the plane of motion has been rotated to the right (for a right handed golfer) during the swing.
Putt
:
The stroke made on the putting green used to roll the ball into the hole.
R
Radial Alignment
:
When the plane of motion of the shaft is parallel to, and pointing at, the target line.
Radius
:
The distance from the hands to the center of rotation of the body during the swing.
Release
:
The unlocking of the wrists during the downswing.
Rhythm
:
Overall fluency or flow of the swing, smoothness and coordination of movements.
Rub of the green
:
A "rub of the green" occurs when a ball in motion is accidentally deflected or stopped by any outside agency (See Rule 19-1).
S
Scoop
:
When the golfer tries to elevate the ball with a lifting motion at impact.
Scratch
:
A handicap score that means a player's average score is equal to the par of the course.
Separation
:
The moment in time when the ball leaves the clubface (as opposed to first hitting the clubface).
Set-up
:
The geometric relationships of the golfer's body, the club and the ball when in the address position.
Shallow
:
When the plane of motion of the club shaft is flatter than that desired.
Shaft
:
That part of the golf club that connects the grip to the head.
Shank
:
When the ball is struck such that part of the hosel makes contact with the ball.
Side Spin
:
The rotation of the ball around its vertical axis - causes the ball to swerve sideways in the air.
Sky
:
When the ball is struck very high on the clubface.
Slice
:
When the ball curves severely from left to right in the air due to imparted side spin. (For right handed golfer).
Slide
:
The lateral motion of the hips during the swing.
Sole
:
The base (underneath) of the club head.
Square
:
When the angle of the clubface is likely to produce a square (perpendicular to the target line) clubface at impact (for any position of the swing).
Stableford
:
A type of game played where the player gets 2 points for a nett par, and 3 points for a nett birdie and so on.
Stroke-play
:
A type of game where the score is determined by the total hits taken.
Stance
:
The location and angle of the feet relative to the target line.
Steep
:
When the plane of motion of the club shaft is steeper than that desired.
Strong Grip
:
When the hands are rotated clockwise relative to a neutral grip (for a right handed golfer).
Sweet Spot
:
The center of gravity of the club head.
Swing
:
The motion of the body and the club.
Surlyn covered ball
:
A type of golf ball cover.
T
Take-away
:
The starting movement of the swing away from the ball.
Target Line
:
A line extending from the target and through the ball.
Target Side
:
The side of the body closest to the finish.
Tee
:
An object that sticks into the ground, which supports the ball above the ground.
Teeing ground
:
A designated flat area that indicates the starting places for each hole.
Tempo
:
The speed of the swing.
Through Swing
:
That part of the swing from impact to the finish.
Through the Green
:
Any part of the golf courses that is not part of the fairway or green.
Tilt
:
The angles of the spine relative to the ground when viewed from the frontal and down the line positions.
Toe
:
That part of the clubface that is farthest from the hostel.
Thin
:
When the ball is struck low on the clubface.
Timing
:
The various muscle parts of the swing fire.
Top
:
The position during the swing where the club changes direction, or the act of striking the ball very low on the clubface.
Trail Side
:
The side of the body farthest to the target.
Trajectory
:
The angle that the path of the ball makes relative to a horizontal surface at any time during its flight.
Trap
:
Another word for bunker.
W
Weak Grip
:
When the hands are rotated anticlockwise relative to a neutral grip (for a right handed golfer).
Weight Transfer
:
The process of shifting the center of gravity of the golfer either by moving the center of gravity or changing the shape of the body.
ONLINE CLASSROOM
1. Introduction to golf
Common Golf Shots
(The following are made under the assumption that the golfer in question is right-handed)
Straight
:
Ball takes straight line to target. (Most difficult shot in golf to execute consistently)
Fade
:
Ball curves slightly from left to right.
Slice
:
Larger curve from left to right.
Banana Slice
:
Even larger curve from left the right.
Draw
:
Ball moves marginally from right to left.
Hook
:
More pronounced version of the draw (right to left).
Duck Hook
:
Greater pronounced version of the hook, usually flies low then suddenly drops.
Block / Push
:
The ball flies directly to the right of the target without any curve.
Air-shot
:
Golfer misses the ball entirely. Sometimes called a 'fresh air-shot'. Or 'swish'.
Fat Shot
:
Occurs when the club head hits the ground first and then the ball. Also known as a 'heavy' shot.
Flyer
:
Occurs when grass gets in between the ball and the clubface, reducing spin and therefore increasing distance that the ball is expected to fly (10-20m).
Lob Shot
:
A slow, rhythmical short distance shot - played with height and often over bunkers. Lands softly with little roll on green.
Pulled Shot
:
A ball that flies directly left of target - without any curve.
Shank
:
A Ball that contacts with the hosel and flies off at virtually right angles to the intended flight.
Skied Shot
:
Happens when the Ball hits the highest part of the clubface, resulting in unusually high trajectory and loss of distance.
Thin Shot
:
Opposite of a 'fat' shot, the thin shot has no divot, shooting off with no backspin.
Topped Shot
:
Occurs when the club head hits the top of the ball.
ONLINE CLASSROOM
2. How to learn
Ball Flight Laws:
LAW is a statement of an order or relation of phenomena that so far as is known is invariable under given conditions.
When we speak of Law in the model, don't infer that Law deals directly with the golf swing. It doesn't. Law here refers to the physical forces which are absolutes in influencing the flight of the ball. There are no absolutes in the golf swing, only Principles. Absolutes are reserved for ball flight, that's why they are called Laws.
The following five factors are the Laws in this model. The Ball Flight Laws (assessed at the moment of impact) are:
Face override is important to understand because the effect of face position on curving shots is approximately double the effect of path position. In other words, a three degree error in face will provide approximately the same amount of curve as a six degree error in the path. So a swing path that travels to the right of the intended line, for example, will not always start the ball to the right if the face position is extreme enough to over come the influence of club head path instead, you may get a "Pull hook" ball flight.
The club head speed also is a factor here the greater the speed, the closer the ball will start out on the swing path. The Iess the speed, the closer it will start on the face impact position.
Therefore, keep in mind that while the ball frequently starts on the path line and curves according to the face position, there are extreme cases where that starting line will differ and where it will be affected by the other ball flight laws, particularly club head speed.
Obviously, there are equipment factors such as clubface loft, construction of the ball, material of the hitting surface, etc., which will influence the distance and direction of the ball's flight. Environmental conditions such as temperature, humidity, wind, terrain and altitude also have an effect. There are also psychological elements which can influence all five laws. But in this model, consideration is given only to the human physical factors and, specifically, those over which we have some control.
Ball Flight Law ranks as the first priority because they are absolute rather than arbitrary. They work every time without fail. The ball is not concerned with swing style. It responds to being stuck without any prejudice toward the striker. It doesn't ask what particular swing method is being used, nor does it care about one's handicap, club affiliation, sex or age. The ball follows the basic Ball Flight Laws, whether the player uses an open or square stance, has a fast or slow backswing, an overlapping or tender fingered grip, a firm or cupped wrist, or emphasizes leverage or centrifugal force as the primary source of power. Yet, all these could have an important influence on the flight of the ball.
In order to hit a straight ball the following conditions must be meet at the moment of impact:
Principles Of Golf:
Fundamental considerations in the swing which have a direct bearing on a player's application of the Laws.
There are fundamental considerations in the swing which have a direct bearing on a player's application of the Laws. In this model they are labeled "Principles-- Principles of the Swing." Whereas the Laws are irrefutable and absolute, principles reflect some subjective judgment on the mechanics of the swing.
Listing these elements does not mean the list is all-inclusive. The reader may feel there are additional items needed to improve the model. The principle is listed, followed by a description of the principle, its primary influence on distance or direction, its effect on one or more of the Laws and the goals of the principle.
They are:
Preferences: Pre-Swing:
It is not necessary to know how many as the count would reach a great total. The point is that there have been and will be many great players that will display techniques, like grip, stance and swing pattern that have noticeable differences, but yet can produce a ball flight that looks almost the same and produce results that are of equally high standard.
Principles Of Golf: Pre-Swing, The Swing's Starting Position (Setup)
Fundamental considerations in the swing which have a direct bearing on a player's application of the Laws
There are fundamental considerations in the swing which have a direct bearing on a player's application of the Laws. In this model they are labeled "Principles-- Principles of the Swing." Whereas the Laws are irrefutable and absolute, principles reflect some subjective judgment on the mechanics of the swing.
Listing these elements does not mean the list is all-inclusive. The reader may feel there are additional items needed to improve the model. The principle is listed, followed by a description of the principle, its primary influence on distance or direction, its effect on one or more of the Laws and the goals of the principle. They are:
POSTURE:
(A player's posture, ball position, stance, weight distribution, and muscular readiness.)
Primary Influence:
Distance & Direction
Effect:
Setup can influence all five laws
Goals:
(Placement, positioning, pressure and precision related to applying the hands to the club in relation to the shape and positioning of the body's posture.)
Primary Influence:
Direction
Effect:
Grip has the greatest influence upon clubface position
Placement:
(How far up or down the shaft the hands are placed) can alter the club's effective length.
Positioning:
(the clockwise or counterclockwise rotation of the hands on the grip) by altering the hands a half-inch counterclockwise from normal on the grip can cause the face to open enough for a 30-yard slice.
Grip pressure:
(The amount of squeezing) influences timing, speed and control
Precision:
(Taking the same grip each time is critical for consistency
Goals:
Club face alignment square to hand position, shoulders, elbow and wrist joints alignment square to club face position
STANCE:
(A player's posture, ball position, stance, weight distribution, and muscular readiness.)
Primary Influence:
Distance & Direction
Effect:
Setup can influence all five laws
Goals:
(A player's ball position)
Primary Influence:
Direction
Effect:
The ball position will affect the angle of approach by the club head. A ball played forward in the stance reduces the angle of approach, adds loft to the face and results in a higher shot. A ball played farther back results in the opposite.
Goals:
From an Ideal perspective, the ball position would be in-line with the base of sternum; besides this the best ball position is the one that matches up with the bottom of the arc of the golf swing.
ALIGNMENT:
(The position of the joints of the body and the club face in relation to the target)
Primary Influence:
Direction
Effect:
The position of the joints strongly influences the club path.
Goals:
Shoulder joints and arms should be parallel to the target line. Hips and legs should be set so shoulders can be parallel to the target line.
AIM:
(The alignment of the clubface in relation to the target.)
Primary Influence:
Direction
Effect:
Aim is one of the most influential principles. Aim influences clubface position at impact which influences ball flight.
Goals:
Clubface at 90 degrees (right angle) to target line.
Principles of Golf: In Swing
Fundamental considerations in the swing which have a direct bearing on a player's application of the Laws.
TAKEAWAY:
(The tilt and direction of travel of the inclined plane made by the club shaft during the first phase of the swing.)
Primary Influence:
Direction
Effect:
The takeaway is determined by the angle of the club shaft relative to the ball and to the ground. The takeaway is on plane when, during the back swing, an extension of the club head points to the target line. Takeaway determines the degree of arm rotation and the clubfaces relative squareness to the swing plane.
Goals:
To maintain the setup angle of the shaft and the squareness of the club face in readiness for the start of the backswing.
SWING CENTER:
(ROTATIONAL) (A point located in the upper spine around which the upper body rotation and swing of the arms takes place.)
Primary Influence:
Distance & Direction
Effect:
When the center of rotation moves, the arc of the circle made by the club head also moves, and striking the ball consistently in the center of the clubface becomes more difficult. The shorter the shot, the more constant the swing center should stay. Additional lateral freedom can be allowed as greater power is sought, but movements that are up and down, away from or toward the ball are discouraged. The motion the spine makes during the swing controls the center point.
Goals:
Maintain the forward tilt angle of the spine and allow the pivot point (swing center) to be in the upper back through to the sternum.
SWING PLANE & PATH:
(The tilt and direction of travel of the inclined plane made by the club shaft.)
Primary Influence:
Direction
Effect:
The swing plane is determined by the angle of the club shaft relative to the ball and to the ground. The swing is on plane when, during the back swing, an extension of the club head points to the target line or is parallel to it, and in the forward swing the butt end of the club would intersect a line drawn through the ball to the target. Plane determines path.
Goals:
Return the club on a chosen path to a position where the shaft lie angle is at or close to the club's lie angle with the shaft tilt in the desired direction.
LENGTH OF ARC:
(The distance the club head travels in the back swing and forward swing.)
Primary Influence:
Distance
Effect:
A short putt needs only a short back swing. On 20-yard pitch shot a longer swing than on the putt is required but not a full swing. Length of back swing is a contributing factor to swing pace or speed and, therefore, distance. If the arc length is shortened in the follow-through that's a good indication of deceleration at impact.
Goals:
Reach the point of maximum leverage at the top of the back swing. Maintaining swing center, have levers fully extended through impact.
RADIUS(WIDTH OF ARC):
(The distance the grip end travels in the back swing and the forward swing.)
Primary Influence:
Distance
Effect:
If the lead arm is noticeably bent at impact, club head speed is reduced due to a shortened lever. This is similar to the way the middle portion of a spoke on a wheel travels slower than the far end of the spoke although the force from the center is equal.
Goals:
Maintain the angle or the length set between the shoulders, wrist and shaft at address. Return to impact the same swing center to ball length.
LEVER SYSTEM:
(The combination of levers formed by the lead arm and club during the back swing and forward swing.)
Primary Influence:
Distance
Effect:
The hinging of the wrists in the back swing and forward swing allowing the player to conserve and release momentum.
Goals:
Hinge the wrist in the back swing so as to reach the point of maximum leverage and maintain the desired wrist hinge until impact.
ONLINE CLASSROOM
2. How to learn
Golfing Skills And The Sequence Of Swing Development
The path from tee to green breaks down into 5 areas of application, or Skill Sets. Based on the PGA Manual of Golf, these skill sets can give you a solid framework for improving your game - whether it's consistency or score.
The Skill Set System: from tee to hole
Applying the laws, principles and fundamentals on the course and getting involved with an professional instructor is where this information will truly pay off. To better transfer the techniques you will learn to the course, we've broken down the path from tee to hole into five areas of application, or skill sets:
Goal is solid contact with shallow divots!
BALL FLIGHT
The followings are examples of ball flights in relations to the selected clubs/equipment used:
The Sequence of Swing Building
Technical Skill:
The seven identifiable parts of the technique windmill are shown in Figure 3 diagram. It is important to realize that each successively higher stage requires the golfer to be competent in each of the preceding stages. For example, working on shot shaping will be futile if reliable solid contact is not being made.
Fundamental Stage - Learn to Hit the ball
Progressive technical skill development for
Swing fundamentals - (putt & short Chip)
Introduction of the one lever swing concept for solid impact using putter & chipping with short irons.
Clubs - putter & shorts irons-9,W&S)
2.
Introduction of the two lever swing concept to promote solid impact / solid contact using short to mid irons up to #7iron.
Clubs - (Long chip to short Pitch) (short irons up to 7 Iron).
3.
½ swing to Mini swing
The two lever swing concept to promote solid impact / Solid contact with mid to long irons / fairway woods
4.
Mini swing to full swing
The two lever swing concept to promote solid impact / Solid contact with all clubs
Proficiency Stage - Learn to play the game
1.
Direction control
Distance control
Shot shaping, club selection
Execution during competition
Swing lengths of all follow-throughs will be bigger than their respective back swing's as there is greater momentum generated from the impact point onwards than there is being generated at the start of the back swing.
The MAIN Goal is square & solid contact with shallow divots!
ONLINE CLASSROOM
2. How to learn
Taking lessons
How to get started
Congratulations for taking the first step toward taking up the game of golf.
This page is designed to bring to provide you with "A Golfer's Guide's" view point on the subject of taking Golf lessons. We will also provide you with advice on the easiest way for you to start playing and enjoying, golf.
The surest way to secure a successful learning experience along your journey is to seek tuition from a professional instructor.
The two types of coaching available to you are group and individual lessons.
Group Lessons
A major benefit of participating in a group clinic is you are learning with a group of people of a similar standard to yourself. This offers you the chance of not only forming some new friendships but are the most likely candidates for golf partners for future games of golf.
In my beginners class you will learn the basics of the golf swing, chipping , pitching. putting, some basic rules and golf etiquette.
These classes are often run over a period of consecutive weeks, by the end of which you will to some extent have obtained knowledge on how to achieve, and apply fundamental golf skills both theory and practical and be confident enough to go out on a golf course and enjoy the experience.
Individual Lessons Individual lessons, cover the same topics as that of a beginners clinic but they are covered in greater depth and you will usually see faster results as you have undivided attention from the golf professional for the duration as opposed to several minutes in a group clinic. Beginners need to have their first few lessons spaced close together. Initially weekly intervals are best, as this gives you enough time to practice what you have learned but not enough time to overdo it. As you get better there will be less things going wrong so the frequency of lessons will be further apart. e.g. fortnightly or every two months. Golf is a game where you never stop learning no matter what your standard.One of golf's acronyms, Go On Learning Forever. Even the best players in the world continue to seek advice from their coaches regularly.
A guide to having an effective Golf Lesson (s)
During a Golf Lesson certain preparatory items are essential to assist the learning experience
Some of the items that we recommend you bring to all golf lessons are:
Listen carefully and be sure that you understand what you are being asked to do. Ask questions! As there are no silly questions,
Be able to understand the movements in question before you attempt to hit any golf balls, as you probably won't have experienced them before, unfortunately the "feel" of movements is unreliable in early stages of development and can therefore could mislead and confuse you.
Good planning at the start of each lesson between you and your instructor will provide you a definitive pathway through each lesson so that you can arrive at the lesson's objective.
Making corrections requires and understanding of cause of your swing pattern problems, from which deliberate actions focusing on one maybe two areas will expedite your corrections that will positively influence the adjustments in your swing pattern.
While your conscience mind is trying to deliberately over ride your previous conditioned response to hitting a golf ball, it is better to reduce the number of balls you hit, as your coordination will suffer initially, and this is likely to cause poorer results. This deliberate attempt to override is due to the fact that you (your brain) is processing new information which it probably will have no reference to, meaning your brain is telling your body to do something it hasn't done before, and likely have no memory recall of this new movement. At this point, as you have no memory or any previous experience of a similar movement to refer to, you will likely experience poor coordination and you won't be developing any until you learn the new movement.
So to maintain motivation and to therefore have enough repartitions to adopt your corrections, we recommend that you carry out your practice using slower movements or smaller swings. This will effectively cause your distance to be reduced for awhile, but fear not, once you become used to the new muscle programming you will actually realize that your previous distance can be achieved with less effort, therefore creating a more efficient swing pattern.
Keep an open mind, but don't take anything on face value, or anything for granted, if your golf pro is a true professional coach he will justify and prove his statements and recommendations by using photos of expert ball strikers, like PGA Tour pros and video and computer analysis of the same to help explain and prove what he is asking you what to do.
After a Golf Lesson
The best thing you can do after a golf lesson is practice your new golf swing without a golf ball for at least ten minutes every day (the more often and longer, the better). What you need to understand is that when you stand over a ball with the intention of hitting it, the body controls the swing, not the conscious mind. Given any opportunity, the body will revert back to what it is most comfortable with, which happens to be your old swing.
The way to teach your body something new is to swing slowly, without a golf ball. Stop frequently at the new position you are trying to learn so that you can show your body where it should be and so that it can develop a feel for that position. Once the new movement is somewhat comfortable, you can put more emphasis on trying to learn the move while actually hitting balls.
When you do hit practice shots, make three to four practice swings for every ball you hit - you're still trying to teach your body what to do. However over time you will be able think less about trying to make the correct movements and function in a more autonomous state.
Every golfer should have a goal to improve for every year they play, but most golfers reach a certain level and never improve beyond that point. Golf is a challenge and that's its allure. Everyone is searching for a way to improve, but most golfers are searching in the wrong places! If you want to get better, find a skilled golf instructor who teaches proper golf swing fundamentals and take a long term approach to improving your game.
ONLINE CLASSROOM
2. How to learn
How to Practice
One of the first keys to improving is practicing properly. "Practice doesn't make perfect," it makes permanent. Only "Perfect practice makes perfect." But if you do it incorrectly, practice also makes permanent.
PRACTICE - The How and Where
What you learn during your golf tuition equates to about half of your improvement. The other half is practice. Without it your rate of improvement will be quite slow. There are four types of places you can practice your golf. Firstly, you can purchase some plastic golf balls and them at home in your back yard. This is quite an effective way of practice especially in the early learning stages where you will be more concerned with training your muscles to repeat certain actions rather than ball flight. Secondly, you can go to a golf range. At a golf range you can purchase a bucket of balls and hit them at your leisure from specially designed artificial grass mats. When you hit balls try to avoid the "machine gun method" of hitting balls. i.e. bang, bang, bang. It is a far better idea to hit the balls slowly, making sure you have several swings between hitting each ball. It is far better for you to hit 50 balls 3 times a week than it is to hit 150 balls in one practice session. One of the best aspects of using a golf range is that you don't have to pick up the balls when you have finished. Thirdly, you can play on a Public golf course and use their practice putting green to improve your putting skills. Finally, if you join a private golf club you can use the practice facilities at that club. However, at most of these clubs you have to use your own practice golf balls and you must share the practice fairway with other golfers. This can be frustrating when picking up your balls at the end of your practice session.
How much should I practice?
One of the most important rules of practice is that it must be regular. Ten minutes every day is far more beneficial than seventy minutes once a week.
Chart Your Game
Even though almost everyone realizes that they should concentrate their practice time on those areas of their game that are their weakest, invariably we wind up spending our time doing what we do best. Here's a simple approach to determining what percentage of your practice time should be devoted to the different elements of your game: keep a chart your game. In other words, after every round write down in a notebook how many times you hit your driver, fairway woods, long, middle and short irons and wedges, and how accurate you were with each club. Also keep track of the number of times you chipped or pitched the ball, hit bunker shots (both long and short), and the number of putts you took, with particular attention to the number of times you three-putted greens, noting whether this was caused by a poor approach putt or by missing a short second putt.
Do this for several rounds and you will see a distinct pattern emerge. You'll not only see clearly what your strengths and weaknesses really are, but also where you take the most strokes-and if you are like the vast majority of golfers, you'll discover that area is in the short game, which also happens to be the area that most people neglect when practicing. As a general rule, at least half of everyone's practice time should be devoted to the short game, whether they are a scratch golfer or a high-handicapper.
Develop a Plan for Practice
Here's where working together with your Instructor can really pay off in lower scores. Once you've completed accurately charting your game, sit down with your Instructor and interpret the results. Your instructor may see trends in the results that aren't immediately apparent to you and this will help you focus your practice on the areas of your game that really need work.
When developing a practice schedule, keep in mind that practice is far more effective when done over relatively short periods of time as opposed to long, grueling hours spent simply pounding ball after ball on the practice tee. A good time to practice is immediately following a lesson, since the instruction you received from your Instructor is fresh in your mind. You not only know what you were taught, but can also feel it as well. Another good time to practice is immediately following a round since this is a time when you've just identified a current problem in your game. Once you (and your Instructor) have fixed the problem to your satisfaction, call it a day.
Planning Effective Practice
ASSESSMENT - Present skill level
SET GOALS:
1.
SHORT TERM - (daily)
2.
MID TERM - (up to 3 months)
3.
LONG TERM - (1 year and more)
ACTIVITIES:
1.
Have a sheet / diary outlining when and what to practice - also include you thoughts and feelings during the practice session
2.
Fix Faults, work on your weakness more than your strengths
3.
Pre - shot routines for Mental preparation
4.
Prepare for Competition / Tournaments
5.
Decide on which drills to work on
6.
Practice the drill long enough to grasp a feel of the swing change required
7.
Set up
8.
Without delay, try and hit the ball with the practice swing feel
How To Practice:
Teach the brain to anchor the feeling that corresponds to the correct movement.
Starting with the rudimentary movements of putting and chipping, so as to establish the correct fundamentals like posture, grip, ball position and swing path.
First confirm the movements are correct, by using:
Other Things To Consider:
1.
Keep your practice sheet on the FRIDGE
2.
Time allocation How much time do you have to practice?
3.
PRACTISE REGULARLY - every day / second day
4.
DO PRACTISE IN SETS OF 10-15 REPETITIONS then have a short break
5.
Break early if tired or distracted or emotional (ANGRY?)
6.
EXPECT SOME POOR SHOTS! Expect it.
7.
Have clear purpose for your practice e.g. a particular drill.
8.
ONLY practice what I have shown you. DO NOT include extra thoughts / actions.
9.
Record on your practice sheet how many repetitions of the exercise you performed and bring this sheet along to lesson.
10.
Understand the difference between PRACTISE & PLAY.
Practise:
NO target, shot result is unimportant; take care to do exercise CORRECTLY...
EXPECT some bad shots and you will NOT be disappointed
Play:
YOU now have a target, FEEL comfortable when addressing ball, swing without delay...
You do not have to do everything QUICKLY BUT don't linger over the ball
Do 10 x reps of the drill (you are now in practice mode)
Then break and hit 3 shots in PLAY mode
MOST IMPORTANT
Are you fit enough for golf (Physical Fitness?)
Get Fit for Golf - http://www.golfmed.net/
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION: The twelve physical requirements for golf:
GOOD POSTURE = GOOD MUSCLE BALANCE
The benefits of correct spinal posture and postural muscle balance are:
Whenever a muscle contracts over a joint, an opposing muscle relaxes and extends. The muscle contracting and producing the movement is known as the "Agonist" and the muscle opposing and extending is known as the "Antagonist".
However, if the Agonists are constantly shortened or contracted this causes the Antagonists to be constantly stretched. This can result in the Antagonists being held in a stressed extended position for excessively long periods of time which eventually causes muscle imbalances.
THE PRINCIPALS OF STRETCHING
A stretching program is an essential part of a postural re-education regime:
What are the Benefits of Stretching?
These stretches have been designed specifically for golf by physiotherapists at the Melbourne Sports Injury Clinic.
3. Learn about the "How to do section"
A Golfer's Equipment guide
How many clubs do I need to buy?
The maximum amount of clubs you are allowed to use during a round of golf is fourteen. This sounds like a lot but most of these would be used in a normal round of golf.
For new gofers and those inexperienced players, when choosing the make-up of your golf set we recommend you avoid long irons which have little lofts, like 2 and 3 irons and consider replacing them with lofted metal woods like a 5, 7 or 9 wood, preferably shallow face models. Also an alternative to a full set is a half set. Half sets consist of a wood, usually a 3 wood, 5,7,9 irons & a sand wedge. These are more than enough to get you started and you can always add the fill in clubs to complete your set at a later date. The downside of buying a half set and then buying the fill ins is the overall cost will be slightly more expensive than if you bought the complete set in one hit.
When buying golf clubs (full, half sets or individual clubs) please consider custom fitting the clubs to suit your physical attributes.
What to consider before you buy clubs:
Once you have reached a consistent playing standard, you may wish to consider going through a custom fitting session with your local professional club fitter, where you will be able to better understand what type of clubs are better suited for your style of play. And even then, consider your budget and go for value rather than show.
Here are a few points regarding club fitting that we suggest that you consider before buy:
(1) The shaft is the axle of the club, the better the shaft, the better the club. Finding the right shaft takes a bit of trial and error. Most golfers use a shaft that's too stiff.
Please refer to the above chart for a review of shaft length over the last 30 years
Shaft flex has a major effect on the feel of a golf club and a medium effect on distance, thus is an important determination in choosing clubs. If you do not know your speed swing (mph or km/h), some local golf shops can measure it for you. Otherwise for guidance please refer to the following chart to discover what is best for you.
SWING SPEED CONVERSION CHART
Driver Swing speed
Driver carry distance
Club used from 150y (135m)
Ladies Flex
Less than 60 mph (100 km/h)
Less than 180 yds (163m)
A 3 iron or wood
Senior or A Flex
60-75 mph (100-120 km/h)
180-210 yds (163-190m)
A 4 iron
Regular Flex
75-84 mph (120-135 km/h)
210-240 yds(190-218m)
A 5 or 6 iron
Stiff Flex
84-93 mph (130-150 km/h)
240-260 yds (218-236m)
A 6 or 7 iron
X-Stiff Flex
Over 93 mph (150 km/h)
260+ yds (236m)
A 8 or 9 iron
Rescue clubs / metal-woods: are shallow faced versions of the regular metal wood, the are seen as the biggest game improvement clubs on the market today. These clubs are easy to hit and extremely accurate due to their low center of gravity.
(2) The length of the shaft:
All golfers should use standard length clubs unless he or she is short or tall. Standard length clubs allow players to hit the ball on center a higher percentage of the time, thus increasing distance and accuracy. In recent years, light weight Titanium driver heads and Ultralight graphite shafts have extended driver playing lengths from a standard 43-431/2" to 44-46". This is good news and bad news. The good news is, when you increase length, you will increase distance. The longer the club, the more club head speed generated, thus more distance. The bad news is, the longer the club the more difficult it is to control, thus less accuracy.
To put this into perspective, the following information will be helpful. A driver hit on center at 43" = 227m(250 yds). 43 1/2"= 238m (262 yds). 44" = 245m (270 yds). 44 1/2" = 250m (275 yds). 45" = 250-255m (275-280 yds).
As you can see a significant increase in distance is achieved up to 44". After 44", distance increases only a minimal amount . CONCLUSION - It is not worth sacrificing accuracy for the minimal amount of distance gained past 44". Keep driver playing lengths to 44" or less.
Men's Standard Shaft Lengths
(For Women's Standard Shaft Length deduct 1")
Club
Length with Steel Shafts
Length with Graphite Shafts
Driver
43.5"
44"
3 wood
42.5"
43"
5 wood
41.5"
42"
7 wood
40.5"
41"
9 wood
40.5"
41"
1 iron
39.5"
40"
2 iron
39"
39.5"
3 iron
38.5"
39"
4 iron
38"
38.5"
5 iron
37.5"
38"
6 iron
37"
37.5"
7 iron
36.5"
37"
8 iron
36"
36.5"
9 iron
35.5"
36"
PW
35.5"
36"
GW
35.25"
35.75"
SW
35.25"
35.75"
LW
35.25"
35.75"
In case you are not 'standard', determining the proper length for your clubs is very easy and free of guess-work by taking a wrist to floor measurement. You need a helper. In street shoes, stand at attention with your feet about a foot apart. Stand straight, shoulders up, but your arms relaxed by your side. Have your helper measure (RH players) from your left wrist at the crease where it meets your hand, to the floor. LH players measure from right wrist. Shorter players will measure in the low 30"'s. Average height players, mid 30"'s. Tall players 35" & up. The values in the table then show you (in inches) how much longer or shorter than the standard length your clubs should be.
YOUR HEIGHT IN CENTIMETERS
Inches
4' 10" - 5' 0"
5' 0" - 5' 2"
5' 2" - 5' 4"
5' 4" - 5' 7"
5' 7" - 6' 0"
6' 0" - 6' 2"
6' 2" - 6' 4"
6' 4" - 6' 7"
6' 7" - 6' 9"
Inches
Centimeter
147 - 153
152 - 158
158 - 163
163 - 170
170 - 183
183 - 188
188 - 193
193 - 200
200 - 205
D
I
S
T
A
N
C
E
O
F
T
H
E
W
R
I
S
T
T
O
F
L
O
O
R
101.6
40"
+2.25"
+2.25"
+2.25"
+2"
+2"
+2"
+1.75"
+1.75"
+1.75"
100.33
39.5"
+2"
+2"
+2"
+1.75"
+1.75"
+1.75"
+1.5"
+1.5"
+1.5"
99.06
39"
+2"
+2"
+2"
+1.75"
+1.75"
+1.75"
+1.5"
+1.5"
+1.5"
97.8
38.5"
+1.5"
+1.5"
+1.5"
+1.5"
+1.5"
+1.5"
+1"
+1"
+1"
96.52
38"
+1.5"
+1.5"
+1.5"
+1"
+1"
+1"
+1"
+1"
+1"
95.25
37.5"
+1"
+1"
+1"
+1"
+1"
+1"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.5"
93.98
37"
+1"
+1"
+1"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.5"
92.71
36.5"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.25"
+0.25"
+0.25"
91.44
36"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.25"
+0.25"
+0.25"
+0.25"
+0.25"
+0.25"
90.17
35.5"
+0.25"
+0.25"
+0.25"
+0.25"
+0.25"
+0.25"
S
S
S
88.90
35"
+0.25"
+0.25"
+0.25"
S
S
S
S
S
S
87.63
34.5"
S
S
S
S
S
S
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.25"
86.36
34"
S
S
S
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.25"
85.09
33.5"
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.5"
83.82
33"
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.5"
82.55
32.5"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-0.75"
81.28
32"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-0.75"
80.00
31.5"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-1"
-1"
-1"
78.74
31"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-1"
-1"
-1"
-1"
-1"
-1"
77.47
30.5"
-1"
-1"
-1"
-1"
-1"
-1"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.25"
76.20
30"
-1"
-1"
-1"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.25"
74.93
29.5"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.5"
-1.5"
-1.5"
73.66
29"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.5"
-1.5"
-1.5"
-1.5"
-1.5"
-1.5"
(3) STEEL SHAFTS vs. GRAPHITE SHAFTS - These are general recommendations:
A. Men (Age 13-55)
Steel shafted irons, graphite shafted woods.
B. Men (Age 55+)
Graphite shafted irons and woods. Note the switch to graphite irons. As we get older the speed swing slows, lighter weight graphite shafts may recover some of the lost speed, thus regaining some lost distance. A switch to a softer flex shaft (senior, A-flex) is also recommended.
C. Ladies (All Ages)
Graphite shafted irons and woods. The lighter weight graphite shafts are much easier for ladies to swing than heavier steel shafts. A little more costly, worth the investment.
(4) Loft is the backward slant on the head of golf clubs that is designed to drive the ball in the air.
Lofts have gradually changed over the past 30 years (look at the chart), take a look and see how todays lofts compare to those of around 30 years ago.
1970
Current (Ideal)
Type
Loft
Length
Type
Loft
Length
Driver
11 degrees
43.5 inches
Driver
9 degrees
44 inches
3-wood
15 degrees
42 inches
3-wood
14 degrees
43 inches
2-iron
20 degrees
38.5 inches
2-iron
19 degrees
39.5 inches
3-iron
24 degrees
38 inches
3-iron
22 degrees
39 inches
4-iron
28 degrees
37.5 inches
4-iron
25 degrees
38.5 inches
5-iron
32 degrees
37 inches
5-iron
28 degrees
38 inches
6-iron
36 degrees
36.5 inches
6-iron
31 degrees
37.5 inches
7-iron
40 degrees
36 inches
7-iron
34 degrees
37 inches
8-iron
44 degrees
35.5 inches
8-iron
37 degrees
36.5 inches
9-iron
48 degrees
35 inches
9-iron
42 degrees
36 inches
PW
52 degrees
35 inches
PW
48 degrees
35.5 inches
SW
56 degrees
35 inches
SW
54 degrees
35.5 inches
LW
LW
60 degrees
35 inches
For experienced players when making a decision on which wedges to use, trying to keep the loft gap between the pitching, sand and lob fairly even (e.g. 48, 54 and 60 degrees).
Otherwise you'll have trouble controlling distance on approach shots.
Loft angle has a major effect on distance off the tee, so its important to choose the correct loft for your driving club. The slower speed swingers (ladies, seniors and some regular flex players) need higher llofted driving clubs. Increased loft will allow a better launch angle, higher trajectory, greater carry, thus more distance!
This may come as a surprise to those players who have always thought less loft, means more distance.
Faster speed swingers do require less loft to obtain maximum distance. The following is a general guide when being used to identify the correct loft for you driving club.
RECOMMENDED LOFTS FOR DRIVING CLUBS:
Player shaft flex
Swing speed
Degrees of loft
Ladies and Senior:
< 60 mph (100 km/h)
13-15 degrees
Senior:
60-75 mph (100-120 km/h)
13 degrees
Regular:
75-84 mph (120-135 km/h)
12 degrees
Stiff:
84-93 mph (130-150 km/h)
10-11 degrees
Stiff of X-stiff:
> 93 mph (150 km/h)
10 or less degrees
NOTE: For those players who naturally hit the ball higher, you may wish to consider using a driver with lless loft.
(5) Lie angle must be correct or the ball can go offline even with a sound swing. That's because at impact the face plane is forced on a different angle to the leading edge. The more loft a club has, the more out of alignment the face plane becomes from the leading edge.
For example: A nine-iron that is four degrees out in lie angle goes 6.5 metres (7.2y) offline at 90 metres (100y), whereas an 11 degree driver that is also four degrees out only goes 4.5 metres (5y) offline at 225 metres (248y).
The most accurate method is to test every club in the bag; a more practical method is to measure the 3, 5, 7 and 9-irons.
How to check your clubs' lie angles:
Too Upright: For every 64 mm the centre of the mark is toward the heel, the lie angle is 1 degree too upright.
(6) Swing-weight is one of the most misunderstood terms in golf. In fact, equipment experts even differ on an interpretation. Many golfers think swing-weight is the total weight of the club.
It's not. Swing-weight is a number that describes the weight distribution of a golf club. It's about the balance of a club.
If you stuck your finger inside the shaft at a point just below the grip (say 14"), the more weight that's on the other side, the more the swing-weight number increases
This would increase the swing-weight of your clubs by three points - every four grams of weight reduction in the grip end causes one added swing-weight point.
(7) Offset is the distance between the shaft's leading edge and the leading edge of the clubface.
In other words, if the leading edge of the club lines up exactly with the leading edge of the clubface, there is no offset.
Offset is a common design feature today. It helps hit the ball higher in the irons and can also be effective in woods to counteract a slice.
DISTANCE - What makes a golf ball go far?
From the point of view of the golf club please consider the following points to influence how far a player can hit a golf ball.
3. Learn about the "How to do section"
Other necessary Golf Equipment
Below is a summary of the main features of golf equipment.
Golf clubs
A player usually carries several clubs during the game (but no more than fourteen, the limit defined by the rules). There are three major types of clubs, known as woods, irons, and putters. Wedges are irons used to play shorter shots. Woods are played for long shots from the tee or fairway, and occasionally rough, while irons are for precision shots from fairways as well as from the rough. A new type of wood known as a "hybrid" combines the straight-hitting characteristics of irons with the easy-to-hit-in-the-air characteristics of higher-lofted woods. A "hybrid" is often used for long shots from difficult rough. Hybrids are also used by players who have a difficult time getting the ball airborne with long irons. Wedges are played from difficult ground such as sand or the rough and for approach shots to the green. Putters are mostly played on the green, but can also be useful when playing from bunkers or for some approach shots. The putter has minimal loft, forcing the ball to stay on the putting surface while struck.
Golf Clubs - The Rules of Golf permit a player to carry a maximum of 14 clubs. The standard make up of a set of golf clubs is 3 woods, 10 irons and a putter. However some advanced players only carry two woods in favor of carrying an extra lofted iron. The key components of golf clubs are the club head, shaft and grip. The club head for "woods" is made out of either wood or (somewhat paradoxically) steel, titanium or graphite. Club heads for irons and putters are usually made out of stainless steel, titanium or graphite. Shafts are made out of steel or graphite and come in a range of flexes, depending on the player's golf ability and physical strength. Grips are commonly made out of either rubber (sometimes with cord running through them) or less frequently, leather.
"Irons" are generally styled in such a way that the club head weight is either peripherally distributed (set around the outside edges of the back of the "iron" club head) or placed evenly along the bottom of the "iron" club head. The latter weight distribution is common on "iron" club heads known as "blades", which are often used by advanced players. Generally, "peripherally weighted irons" have a bigger "sweet spot" or hitting area on the club head, are consequently more forgiving on the miss hit shot and thus well suited to the beginner or average player. Clubs are built to specific lengths and weights to individually suit each player. There are literally hundreds of different styles of golf club sets. It is recommended that prior to purchasing a set of clubs a player consults a qualified golf professional or experienced golf salesman and if possible tries a number of different clubs. The price of a set of golf clubs ranges from around $400 to $2500 depending upon the style, construction material and design qualities of the clubs.
Golf Balls
Golf ball with a tough rubber core (with 1 Euro coin for size reference)
The minimum allowed diameter of a golf ball is 42.67mm and its mass may not exceed 45.93g. Modern golf balls have a two-, three-, or four-layer design constructed from various synthetic materials. The surface usually has a pattern of 300-400 dimples designed to improve the ball's aerodynamics. The method of construction and materials used greatly affect the ball's playing characteristics such as distance, trajectory, spin and feel. Harder materials, such as Surlyn, usually result in the ball's traveling longer distances, while softer covers, such as Balata, tend to generate higher spin, more "feel" and greater stopping potential. Golf balls are separated into three groups depending on their construction: two-, three-, or four-piece covers. Generally four-piece golf balls tend to be the most expensive, though price is no assurance of quality. As of 2006 there are golf balls that utilize RFID technology, which allow golfers to locate errant shots easily using a handheld homing device. The first type of golf ball was the feathery, made out of leather and feathers.
Golf Shafts
Golf shafts are used between the grip and the club head. The profile of the golf shaft is circlular in shape and is usually thicker at the grip end than at the club head end. Any strong and light material may be used to make the golf shaft. Almost all shafts today are made of either graphite or tempered steel, although other materials either have been used (the first shafts were made from hickory wood) or have been tried (like titanium and aluminum). The tapering of the shaft is important to some players - the shaft can be smoothly tapered or it can be tapered in steps.
The rules of golf allow the shaft of the putter to be bent in some specific ways, but all the other club shafts must be straight.
Other Equipment
Tees
Golf tees resemble nails with a small cup on the head and are usually made of wood or plastic. A tee is an object (wooden or plastic) that is pushed into the ground to rest a ball on top of for an easier shot; however, this is only allowed for the first stroke (tee shot or drive) of each hole (There is also a variation of the tee which resembles the regular form, with the point cut off. This is used when teeing off with irons).
Ball markers
When on the green, the ball may be picked up to be cleaned or if it is in the way of an opponent's putting line; its position must then be marked using a ball marker (usually a flat, round piece of plastic or a coin).
Golf carts
Sometimes transport is by special golf carts. Clubs and other equipment are carried in golf bags. Pull Carts' or Golf Buggies are trolley-like items designed to carry such a bag, allowing the golfer to drag his or her bag around the course, rather than carrying it on their back.
Golf gloves
Golfers also often wear gloves that help grip the club and prevent blistering. Normally only one glove is worn, and it is on the left hand for a right handed player, or the right hand for a left-handed player.
Golf shoes
Golfers wear special shoes with exchangeable spikes (or small plastic claws termed soft spikes) attached to the soles, designed to increase grip on greens or in general wet conditions.
Pitchfork
A divot repair tool (or pitchfork) is used to repair a divot (depression in the green where a ball has hit the ground). Some tees contain such a tool at the end, for pure convenience when on the green. To repair a divot, one pushes the tool next to the mark and pushes gently inwards from all sides, loosening the compacted turf to allow rapid re-growth of grass, and then flattens the mark with the smooth flat bottom of the putter to smooth the putting surface.
ONLINE CLASSROOM
3. Learn about the "How to do section"
What Types Of Games?
Competitions
Participation in golf competitions is important for players of all abilities in order to: -
Try some Variations of your Game
The two basic forms of playing golf are match play (Rulebook page 26 - 27), and stroke play, (Rulebook page 28 - 29)
Single Stroke play (Medal)
Single Stroke or Medal play is the simplest of all variations. In this game every player (or team) counts the number of shots taken for the whole round or tournament to produce the total score. All strokes to be counted and players are unable to pick up the ball without penalty. The score for the 18 holes is tallied and the handicap is deducted from that total. The lowest score wins, both for gross and nett.
Match play
Holes are either won, halved or lost, based on the nett score of each hole. The handicap is applied using the match play index on the scorecard. The two competitor's handicaps are compared and the difference e.g. 14 - 6 = 8, is the number of strokes given away. The number of holes where one stroke is allocated is then decided, according to the match index.
In match play, two players (or two teams) play every hole as a separate contest against each other. The party with the lower score wins that hole, or if the scores of both players or teams are equal the hole is "halved" (drawn). The game is won by the party that wins more holes than the other. In the case that one team or player has taken a lead that cannot be overcome in the number of holes remaining to be played, the match is deemed to be won by the party in the lead, and the remainder of the holes is not played. For example, if one party already has a lead of six holes, and only five holes remain to be played on the course, the match is over. At any given point, if the lead is equal to the number of holes remaining, the match is said to be "dormie", and is continued until the leader increases the lead by one hole, thereby winning the match, or until the match ends in a tie. When the game is tied after the predetermined number of holes have been played, it may be continued until one side takes a one-hole lead, and thereupon immediately wins by one hole.
It's important to remember in match play that the player furthermost from the hole always plays first. This is especially true on the putting green. You must not putt out if your opponent's ball is still "live" and furthest away from the cup.
You may pick your ball up if your opponent is heard to "give you the putt". The scorecard is generally not used.
Stableford Golf
(Points system - pick up ball when obvious you cannot score on a hole)
1931 Dr Stableford of Liverpool devised a points scoring game as a variation away from Par & Stroke play.
A variant of stroke play is Stableford scoring, where a number of points (two for the target score) are given for each hole, and the fewer shots taken, the more points obtained, so the aim is to have as many points as possible.
Has become so enduringly popular, that in 1968 it got official blessing from The R&A and was incorporated into the rules of golf. The major advantages of Stableford are that it keeps play moving briskly and graduates the field.
STABLEFORD SCORING SYSTEM -
Object when playing Stableford is to score 2 points or more per hole:
More than one over par
= 0 points
One over par
= 1 point
Level par
= 2 points
1 under par
= 3 points
2 under par
= 4 points
3 under par
= 5 points
(The points can be calculated are determined based on the net score)
Each player scores stableford points on a hole based on their handicap and the stroke index for the hole. During the round, each player and marker has to calculate the points allocated to each score on a hole based on the stroke index. A player on a handicap of 12 receives a shot on the 12 hardest holes, while a player on a 27 handicap receives 2 shots on 9 holes and 1 shot on 9 holes, based on the course index.
You mark both the stroke score and stableford points on the card, and the highest point score wins. Only the stableford points are tallied.
Par (Bogey)
On every hole a player either has a plus "+", a half "0" or a loss "-".
Handicaps are calculated depending on the rating of each hole. eg. a player off 12 is expected to bogey the 12 hardest holes on the course (ratings of each hole are listed on the card).
If the 12-handicapper makes par on any of the 12 hardest holes they earn a " +". A bogey earns a "0" and a double-bogey or worse gets a "-".
Add up the plus and minus signs to finish so many up, down or "square".
Winner: The player who finishes the most up.
(Records how many shots up or down you had in relation to your handicap. Instead of points as in Stableford, the golfer records holes won, lost and halved. Golfer picks up ball when obvious they cannot score on a hole.)
Four-Ball Best-Ball Stroke
Played the same as the single version but you have a partner. The best nett score on each hole is used and only the gross and the best nett need to be scored on each hole.
Once a player cannot beat his partner's nett score, then the ball should be picked up. If both players record the same nett score, then the player who first holed-out is marked on the card as scoring.
Both player's names and handicaps must be on the card. The card need only to be signed by one marker and one player from each pair. The lowest point score wins.
Foursomes
This a team game played in pairs with only one ball in play. Players alternate between shots after teeing off. The tee shots are also taken alternately so that one player tees off on all the even numbered holes and the other player tees off on all the odd numbered holes.
In mixed competitions ladies tee off from their own tees. It is played and recorded as if a single stroke event. The handicaps of both players are added and half the total is the team handicap for the day. The order of play is not changed if a player incurs a penalty.
Other forms that are variation of the basic forms are listed below
The player whose ball was chosen has the first shot and then each remaining player drops their ball within one club length of the spot, but no nearer the hole, and plays their next shot in the order originally decided by the captain. This procedure continues irrespective of whether the ball is on the fairway, in the rough or in a hazard, until the play reaches the green.
On the green, the best position is again decided upon and marked. Each player the places their ball within a card length of this spot and has one putt in turn. They must not putt out, but each ball position must again be marked and the procedure repeated until a ball is holed, or a score cannot be bettered.
The card is marked as for a single stroke round and the lowest score wins the competition. It is important to note that every player must have their handicap marked on the card. Only one score is kept for the entire team, regardless of the number of members. Handicaps are calculated by adding those of all players and dividing the total by: 4 in a two-ball event, 6 in a three-ball event and 8 in a four-ball event.
The net score is determined by adding together the handicap of every team member and dividing by one-eighth.
At the end of the round the score is totalled and the handicap is deducted to establish the nett score. This is calculated by subtracting the exact resulting handicap so all those fractions count.
Four-Ball Best-Ball Stableford
The team version of a single stableford. The scoring is the same as the single event but only one player can score for each team on a hole. The score is the best result in the team. When the two partners score the same result then the score is marked for the player who holes out first. If a player cannot beat the partner's score the ball is picked up to speed up play.
The stableford points only are tallied and the highest score wins. Only one player and one marker from each team need sign the card.
Four-Ball Aggregate Stableford
A team version of single stableford where all scores count on every hole. Each player must record a score on each hole and the scores of both players are added together for the total points each hole. The result for the round is then calculated and recording by adding the total point scores for each hole. The points scoring system is the same for a single stableford.
The highest point score wins the competition.
Four-Ball Best-Ball Versus Par
Played under the same rules as the single version but this team game allows both partners to contribute according to their handicaps and score on a hole.
Only the best result on each hole is counted and if the two players have the same result only the score of the player who holes out first needs to be recorded.
The highest score wins the competition.
Four-Ball Handicap Matchplay
The rules are the same as with single matchplay, but the handicap differences are based on the lowest handicapped player in the two pairs.
The lowest marker goes back to scratch. Then the other players have their handicaps lowered by subtracting the handicap of the low marker. For example, four players with the following handicaps would be treated like this.
A: 15 handicap
B: 13 handicap
C: 3 handicap
D: 22 handicap
C is the low marker and would have a new handicap of Zero.
The other new matchplay handicaps would then be:
A: 15 - 3 = 12
B: 13 - 3 = 10
D: 22 - 3 = 19
The side which wins a hole is then the side with the best nett score on a hole after comparing the adjusted matchplay handicaps to the matchplay index on the holes (see Matchplay)
American Foursomes
Similar to the Canadian foursomes on half combined handicap. after the tee shot, players play their partner's ball, then select one ball to play alternately until holed.
Canadian Foursomes
Played on half combined handicaps. The players both tee off every hole and then select the best positioned ball to play alternately from there until the ball is holed out.
Chapman Foursomes
Similar to American Foursomes but the second shots on each hole are played with their own ball and then the selection made. Again, half combined handicaps are used.
Single Versus Par (VSS)
Scores are recorded only as plus (+), Minus (-) or halved (0). The easiest way to understand it is to compare it with stableford scoring
STABLEFORD POINTS
VERSUS PAR RESULT
3 points or greater
Plus (+)
2 points
0
Less than 2 points
Minus(-)
The scores are recorded by marking down the player's stroke score with the appropriate symbol (+/ -/ 0). If a player is unable to score a Plus (+) or Half (0) then the player should pick up and mark the hole as Minus (-). The final score is calculated by comparing the pluses and minuses as they negate each other. Thus a player with 6 pluses and 3 minuses would score 3 for the round.
The highest score wins the competition.
Flag Competitions
A player or side is allocated a set number of shots based on the total of their handicap and par for the course. For example, a player on a handicap of 14 would have 85 shots if the par for the course is 71.
The object of the game is to play every shot until you run out of shots. The winner is the player who gets the furthest around the course or furthest past the first tee if they have shots left after 18 holes. A flag is generally used as a marker to designate the finishing point.
Bisque Bogey
In this game, the competitor is allowed to choose on the tee before the start of each hole whether or not they will allocate any shots to the hole. The competitor must mark on the card how many shots are to be used before starting the hole. Once the handicap is used up, no more shots can be allocated. Scoring is based on Single Versus Par.
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3. Learn about the "How to do section"
Scoring Systems; How To Score & To Use A Score Card Correctly
Each attempt at striking a ball (whether or not the ball is hit) counts as a shot until the ball is holed.
In every form of play, the goal is to play as few strokes per round as possible. Scores for each hole can be described as follows:
Term on a scoreboard
Specific term
Definition
-4
Condor (or double-albatross)[1][2]
four strokes under par
-3
Albatross (or double-eagle)
three strokes under par
-2
Eagle (or double-birdie)
two strokes under par
-1
Birdie
one stroke under par
0
Par
strokes equal to par
+1
Bogey
one stroke more than par
+2
Double bogey
two strokes over par
+3
Triple bogey
three strokes over par
+4
Quadruple bogey
four strokes over par
How to use a scorecard
Fill out sections of card such as name, handicap, date and home club before you swap cards. Player A and player B then swap cards on the first tee.
At the end of your round ensure that your card is signed by both yourself and your marker and also that your score has been written in the correct place before you hand it in.
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3. Learn about the "How to do section"
Summary Of The Basic Rules & Etiquette
Every golfer must abide by the game's code of behaviour.
Golf's code of behaviour is referred to as "golf etiquette". It ensures safety is maintained, the course is looked after and that golf is played in a fun and friendly environment.
There are EIGHT BASIC RULES of etiquette.
Some relate to play on a golf course, but all others should be observed when conducting Go-Go sessions on the school oval; for instance, all divots should be repaired.
1: Safety
No player shall play until the group in front is out of range. However to speed up play, (and by mutual consent) the shortest hitter can go first even if this means hitting out of turn! Check that you and others are safe before swinging a club or playing a shot. The 'cry of fore' is not only good etiquette, it may save a life.
2: Consideration
Play without delay and be mindful of maintaining your pace within the group and of maintaining your groups place within the field. Consider the enjoyment of others on the course.
3: Priority
If your group falls a hole behind, signal the players behind you to play through. During play the one furthest away from the hole goes first; this applies on the putting green as well.
4: Bunker Care
Always smooth out a bunker after playing a shot from it. Enter and leave the bunker from the lowest point, unless otherwise marked.
5: Replace and Repair Turf
Replace all divots and repair any damage you make to the course.
6: Green Care
Repair all pitch marks and take care not to damage the green with your shoes, putter or the flagstick.
7: Golf Car and Buggy Use
Notices regulating golf cars and buggies should be strictly observed.
8: Practice Swings
Avoid causing damage to the course when taking a practice swing.
"Golf Etiquette also includes wearing the right clothes, and good sportsmanship."
* Etiquette that relates to other specific areas of the Golf Course is explained as follows*
ON THE TEE
Golf is a game in which a ball is struck with a club from a prepared area, know as the "teeing ground", across fairway and rough to a second prepared area, which has a hole in it, known as the "putting green". The object of the game is to complete, what is known as a hole, by playing a ball from the teeing ground into the hole on the putting green in the fewest possible number of strokes. A "round of golf" consists of playing 18 such holes.
*The rules of golf are designed to give every player a fair chance*
When competing against others - and the course - the rules cover every situation a golfer can get into. Once new golfers progress to playing on a course, they should always carry a rulebook and learn the common rules. When seeking relief by using a rule, a player, must announce their intentions to the marker, prior to applying the rule. (One-shot penalty for failure to carry this out.)
There are basically two forms of play, one which is decided by holes won and lost (match play) and the other which is decided by the total number of strokes taken to complete the round (stroke play).
Before commencing your round:
There are three important principles to remember when playing golf:
To do what's fair you need to know the Rules. The following is a summary of the Rules of Golf, simplified where possible.
Penalty Strokes
At times players may find themselves in a situation, which will result in a penalty being applied.
Most common are:
Water Hazard
Check the Local Rules on the score card to establish whether the sea, lake, river etc. is a 'water hazard' or a 'lateral water hazard'.
Tee off between and not in front of the tee-markers. You may tee off up to two club-lengths behind the front line of the tee-markers
Teeing off outside this area - In match play there is no penalty but your opponent may ask you to replay your stroke; in stroke play you incur a two-stroke penalty and must then play from within the proper area.
Playing the Ball
Play the ball as it lies. Don't improve your lie, the area of your intended swing or your line of play by moving, bending or breaking anything fixed or growing except in fairly taking your stance or making your swing. Don't press anything down or build a stance.
If your ball lies in a bunker or a water hazard don't touch the ground in the bunker, or the ground or water in the water hazard, before your downswing.
The ball must be fairly struck, not pushed or spooned.
Playing a wrong ball (except in a hazard) - In match play you lose the hole; in stroke play you incur a two-stroke penalty and you must then play the correct ball. In stroke play, if the error is not rectified before teeing off on the next hole, player is disqualified.
Casual Water, Ground Under Repair etc.
If your ball is in casual water, ground under repair or a hole or cast made by a burrowing animal (e.g. a rabbit), you may drop without penalty within one club-length of the nearest point of relief not nearer the hole.
On the Putting GreenYou may repair ball marks and old hole plugs on the line of your putt but not any other damage, including spike marks. You may mark, lift and clean your ball on the putting green. Always replace it on the exact spot.
Don't test the putting surface by scraping it or rolling a ball over it.
A Ball that is played from a putting green that strikes flagstick - In match play you lose the hole; in stroke play you incur a two-stroke penalty.
Ball at Rest Moved
If your ball is at rest and it is moved by you, your partner or your caddie, except as permitted by the Rules, or if it moves after you have addressed it, add a penalty stroke and replace your ball.
If your ball is at rest and is moved by someone else or another ball, replace it without penalty to you.
Ball in Motion Deflected or Stopped
Ball struck by you is deflected or stopped by you, your partner or your caddie - In match play you lose the hole; in stroke play you incur a two-stroke penalty and the ball is played as it lies. Ball struck by you is deflected or stopped by someone else - Play your ball as it lies without penalty, except (a) in match play, if an opponent or his caddie deflects the ball you have an option to replay the stroke or (b) in stroke play, if the ball is deflected after a stroke from on the putting green, you must replay.
Ball struck by you is deflected or stopped by another ball at rest - No penalty and the ball is played as it lies except in stroke play you incur a two-stroke penalty if your ball and the other ball were on the putting green before you played.
Lifting, Dropping and Placing the Ball
If a ball to be lifted is to be replaced, its position must be marked. If a ball is to be dropped or placed in any other position (e.g. taking relief from GUR, etc.) it is recommended that the ball's original position be marked.
When dropping, stand erect, hold the ball at shoulder height and arm's length and drop it. If a dropped ball strikes you or your partner, caddie or equipment, it must be re-dropped without penalty.
There are eight instances where a dropped ball rolls to such a position that it must be re-dropped - see Rule 20-2c
Ball Interfering with or Assisting Play
You may lift your ball if it might assist any other player. You may have any ball lifted if it might interfere with your play or assist any other player.
Loose Impediments
You may move a loose impediment unless it and your ball are in a hazard. However, if you have touched a loose impediment within one club-length of your ball and your ball moves, the ball must be replaced and (unless your ball was on the putting green) you incur a penalty stroke.
Obstructions
(Check the Local Rules on the score card for guidance on immovable obstructions (e.g. surfaced roads and paths etc).)
Movable obstructions (e.g. rakes, tin cans etc.) anywhere on the course may be moved. If the ball moves it must be replaced without penalty.
If an immovable obstruction (e.g. a water fountain) interferes with your stance or swing, you may drop the ball within one club-length of the nearest point of relief not nearer the hole. There is no relief for intervention on your line of play unless your ball and the obstruction are on the putting green.
Ball Lost or Out of Bounds
(Check the Local Rules on the score card to identify the boundaries of the course.)
If your ball is lost outside a water hazard or out of bounds you must play another ball from the spot where the last shot was played under penalty of one stroke i.e. stroke and distance. You are allowed 5 minutes to search for a ball, after which if it is not found or identified it is lost.
If, after playing a shot, you think your ball may be lost outside a water hazard or out of bounds you may play a 'provisional ball'. You must state that it is a provisional ball and play it before you go forward to search for the original ball. If the original ball is lost or out of bounds you must continue with the provisional ball under penalty of one stroke. If the original ball is not lost or out of bounds, you must continue play of the hole with it and the provisional ball must be abandoned.
Ball Unplayable
If you believe your ball is unplayable outside a water hazard (and you are the sole judge), you may under penalty of one stroke;
Playing the wrong ball:
2 shot penalty, except in a hazard where there is no penalty. In stroke play, if error is not rectified before teeing off on the next hole, player is disqualified.
Conclusion: A good score may be spoiled, or a match lost, due to a penalty incurred through ignorance or confusion concerning the Rules. A sound knowledge of the above summary should aid the golfer in tackling a "Rule problem". Nevertheless, the complete Rules of Golf as approved by the Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St. Andrews and the United States Golf Association, should be consulted where any doubt arises.
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4. Drills and practice tips on how to improve
Full swing: Tee ground & fairway
A good swing starts from the beginning - that is, the set-up. Trying to get your body angle and posture correct will influence all the information you have received about gripping the club, ball position and the position of your head, body and arms.
This is an easy aspect of the swing to get right because there is only one right way to do it and it is easy to practice without clubs or balls. Consequently, you can even do it at home.
A good body angle is almost the exact image of what you should look like at impact.
Establishing a correct body angle at address - one that imitates your impact position - make s the whole process of returning the club back to impact simpler. For example, if you have a poor body angle set-up, your backswing and delivery into the ball will be affected and you will find it very difficult to get into a solid impact position, delivering power with accuracy.
But if you start in a good position, you just have to train your body to get back to this position on impact. It is a simple theory and it can be simple in practice through just that - practice.
The ideal body angle at address is simple to achieve. Move through these steps - using a full length mirror - to get your address body angle just right:
Great players are able to achieve a similar position at impact to the one they had at address. This is because they do not change their body angle throughout the swing. Keeping the same body angle during the swing makes their task a whole lot easier.
Work through the steps to get your body angle right before taking a club then make a series of quarter or waist high swings. The idea here is to swing the club back and forth with your arms - with good rhythm - whilst maintaining the same body angle you started with.
Work on this regularly or at least once a week and achieving and maintaining a good body angle for every shot will become second nature
(NB: don't believe for one second that your body is not supposed to move during this golf swing. It definitely is - but your body angle does not change).
Swing Radius (Courtesy of Gary Edwin)
Maintaining your body angle during the swing creates the ideal swing radius to achieve power and accuracy. As I said before, address simulates impact - you move away from address with the backswing and back to it.
If your body angle changes, your swing radius changes, so your ability to hit the ball consistently out of the sweet spot is greatly effected. For example, if your body angle straightens you may have problems getting the ball in the air or you may hit a lot of fat shots. This is because your swing radius has changed from its original position.
Here is a good drill to create the feeling of a good swing radius, incorporated with a good body angle: place a tyre on the ground in front of you, with the edge of the tyre positioned where your ball would normally sit in your stance; i.e.: in line with your left heel or just inside that. Take a quarter backswing and swing down into impact against the tyre. From this position, push the tyre toward the target until the club head can no longer touch the tyre because it is starting to move up into the follow-through.
Turn (Courtesy of Gary Edwin)
(Body rotation/pivot)
The spine angle refers to the angle of rotation of the upper body.
The correct spine angle is critical in golf, when the pivot angle is correct and maintained through out the swing, the club goes on a semi-circular arc away, back and through.
The most difficult thing about body turn is getting the direction of the turn right. Much has been written about 90o shoulder turn, back to the target, shoulder under the chin, wind up like a spring, coil up like you are throwing a ball etc. But basically, turn is really only related to the set-up and set-up angles.
You need to get your turn to work without your set-up angles changing. I like my students to think of the turn as a feeling of the arms pulling the body around, with the shoulders responding to the direction that the arms are going.
This is in contrast to the popular old one-piece takeaway teaching where everything - shoulders, hips, arms, shaft the lot - moves together.
The one piece creates extra motion all the time and changes posture. This creates a big problem among players who try to get their shoulders to move with the club in the first movement.
Their shoulders then turn too much at the start, causing them to stop before the arms and hands have reached the end of the backswing.
This is when you will see many of these players tilt or lift their right side up to try and get the club back to the top of the backswing.
If you look at the world's best players - they don't actually have a lot of turn at the start of their backswings. They resist the turn quite a long way and just keep their set-up shape, with their arms actually pulling their shoulders into the turn.
Try this: establish the set-up angle and allow the arms to swing in a quarter motion back and through (which makes the shoulders move but not rotate). By keeping the same hip and shoulder angle, when you swing your arms a little further, a little higher, it will coil your shoulders up more - but it won't change their angle.
By maintaining the same body angle and swing radius, your arms can drop freely on the down swing without your body angle being forced to change to hit the ball.
Golfers who over rotate their shoulders on the backswing have an initial downward movement that rotates their shoulders out, forcing the club out across the target line. So they are forced to make downswing compensations to avoid cutting across the ball and hitting a big slice. The major compensation is to try to hit from inside the line and roll over release with the hands.
It's easier to maintain your shoulder plane when you allow your arms to move from the quarter swing up to the three quarter swing, changing your shoulder angle a little but not so you turn and change the angle of your hips and shoulders.
(NB: less is more, more is less. Less turn (ie not overturning) equates to more power and control whereas more than you need lessens your quality of contact.)
Weight Transfer (Courtesy of Gary Edwin)
Turn and weight transfer create leverage and power when properly applied in the golf swing. However, the direction of these two major motions is the important factor, not the amount.
Weight transfer is really only relevant to the shape of your body throughout the swing. If you slide out of your original posture (there it is again - the set up) your weight will move in the wrong direction and will compensate in the wrong direction in setting up the down swing. That's why people sway, slide, tilt, come over the top, come off the ball, swing too flat, swing too upright, get too steep in the down swing etc... these all originate when the body posture changes during the back swing.
You don't want your body to change just because your arms are swinging. I try to get all my students - from beginners through to Tour Pros likes of Peter Lonard, Paul Gow, Rod Pampling and Peter Senior - to swing their arms faster and keep their body angles to generate speed. In a lot of other golf swings there is more speed of the body and the arms are slower.
Have a look at the guys I have mentioned. They don't appear to go backwards, they don't appear to go forwards and they don't appear to go around too much. It is only because they keep their body angle in check the entire time. This creates consistency. Consistency creates quality of contact - and that means power and accuracy.
Weight transfer can't be described in terms of "60% weight on the back foot and 40% weight on the front foot". The way I feel when I stand, I probably feel like I've got more weight on my left foot (front) - but that's only in my hip area. My upper body weight is on the right side, so it is a balanced equation.
But if I was to say I had 60% weight on my front foot, people would say it was crazy. Your weight has to be more on your back foot.
Additionally, golfers who always stay over the ball... when they're told to get behind the ball they try to do this by moving behind the ball during the back swing. My players are behind the ball all the time. They never have to move behind the ball there because their shape is set behind the ball and every facet of the swing works around that.
A good drill that teaches you the feeling of swinging back without changing your body shape and to deliver the club head back to the "address" position is the Hill Drill.
Essentially, this is a chip shot. But the hill drill encourages you not to change your body angle during the swing.
Set up with a slight lean into a hill. Using a 7 iron, hit some balls with small swings, concentrating on keeping your body angle from your set-up position and hit into the hill. If you try to lift the ball into the air with a wrong turn, your body angle will change and your quality of contact with the ball will suffer.
Note how my body angle has not changed, yet there has still been movement of my upper body - namely the shoulders and arms. This is a "feel" drill where you should start to get the feeling of what maintaining your body angle is all about.
Gripping solutions
Deciding what's best depends on the size of your hands. For men and women of average strength and co-ordination there are two choices - the overlap or interlock. However, the physically weak, beginners, children and those suffering arthritis should experiment with the 10-finger grip.
Taking aim
There are two parts to aiming - the clubface and your body.
The general rule is that there is no ideal position due to the variety of swing patterns. However I recommend the following:
The distance varies according to the length of the club. Positioning needs to be precise because it determines your balance point - which must be the balls of the feet. Put simply, establishing the right balance points and a distance from the ball allows a golfer to make contact without searching for the ball.
Try this training drill as a general rule of thumb:
4. Drills and practice tips on how to improve
Putting
An introduction to the art of Putting
What is Putting?
The purpose of putting is to role the ball into the hole on the3 putting green in as few as shots as possible.
The art or skill of Putting is the ability of a golfer to possess the following three factors.
The fact is that Putting is a part of the game in which anyone can excel; it takes no great strength, just sufficient knowledge on how to gain the technical skills necessary for a consistent putting stroke.
Putting Theory & Routine
1. Straight line putt
Conversely, the dominant eye is not blocked by the bridge of the nose for the cross-dextrals and thus, they gain a putting advantage when their eyes are positioned directly over the ball. While researchers only investigate golf-putting, these findings also have implications to ball striking.
Individuals who are pure-dextral may benefit from an open stance. With this type of stance, their dominant eye has a less obstructed view of the target. Thus, pure-dextrals would probably gain a motor performance advantage when taught to swing from an open stance. Most importantly, these findings suggest the assessment of a student's eye dominance is vital for individualizing instruction appropriately.
Besides the data from the researchers, there are general tendencies that golfers display depending on where they align their eyes relative to the "ball to target line".
People who align their eyes outside the ball will tend to aim left, because they look back at the hole. And this tends to close the face.
Depending on the eye dominance, people who get their eyes inside the ball will tend to aim right because they are looking at the hole and tend to align their eyes Depending on the eye dominance, people who get their eyes inside the ball will tend to aim right because they are looking at the hole and tend to align their eyes differently. The line of your eyes should be both positioned on the ball direction line. If the golfer twists their head one way or another they will be encouraged to swing the putter out-to-in or in-to-out. So the correct eye line is very important.
String / Chalk line is used for:
Purpose:
The problem is not how the eyes see but how the brain perceives what the eyes see. As a result, to be successful in putting it is very important to train the eyes and brain to see the actual line to the target.
Bad putters are generally suffering from the illusion that they are lining up to the hole when in fact they are not.
Square face applicator
Purpose:
The objective of the exercise is to determine the golfers skill in setting the clubface square to the hole.
Other applications are to set the applicator in a fixed position and proceed to hit a number of putts from the top of it using the directional line as a guide. So it is advisable to take care when fixing the applicator so it aims correctly to the heart of the hole.
Introduction of activity.
Irrespective of the length of any putt, it is important to understand that it is NOT a physically demanding skill as opposed to other swings that we use when playing golf, BUT it is a very mentally demanding activity especially when you consider that the value of an extra putt that is required when you miss from a short distance has the same value as a 300 metre drive, and that is they are both equally "1" shot.
Practice program:
Types of putts that a golfer will experience on the course basically comprise of 3 ranges of distances, namely:
The short putt is a critical part of your overall score however most golfers generally practice in poor conditions and effectively practice missing, This of course means that golfers will lack the necessary confidence when they go out on to the course.
Ideally, positive visualization will have a desirable effect when on the golf course, so succeeding in practice (i.e. seeing the ball go in to the hole) will help instill confidence to be successful for short putts when on the golf course.
Drills for improving short putts:
The idea is simply an overload exercise. When you succeed on the putting green daily your nervous system becomes more attuned to holing these putts. Then when you are faced with similar putts on the course you are more confident in holing these putts.
Sports Psychologists tell us that whenever you are standing over a putt and you are confident in holing the putt it is simply your memory taking over, meaning the brain has found a similar experience (a putt of similar length) in the past and is applying this experience.
Similarly when you stand over a putt and are saying that you have no hope in holing the putt, your memory unfortunately has gone to a putt where you did not make and is using this to give you negative feelings.
Definition of Mid putts: (from 2 to 5 meters)
These are the length of putts most likely where most birdie chances will come from and because the average golfer is so attuned to making Par (i.e. 2 putts), they do not put themselves under enough pressure to make the putt, saying that
"It's not that important if I miss as I am still going to make Par anyway".
Realistically though this is the range where you make birdies and eagles and where you also save par when on the more difficult holes.
Things to consider for this range are:
By practicing mid range putting you will condition yourself for what you will encounter on the golf course.
IT IS A MATTER OF CONDITIONING!
Definition of Long putts: (5 to 10 meters)
(Things to consider)
Drills for improving Extra Long putts:
Distance control putting exercise: Leap frog drill:
Place two markers about 3 metes apart, from any given distance hit 5 balls between the two markers. This may sound simple but there is one more condition and that is that the second ball must go past the third, the forth past the third, and the fifth past the forth and on top of that the fifth must finish before the farthest marker. This exercise is totally speed related, there is no target and the point is to develop a feel for putts of differing lengths.
Upon success from a shorter distance extend the distance from the hitting point up to the first marker in increments of 1 metre.
9 and 18 hole putting competitions
Putt around the putting green and record your total putts for 9 and 18 hole games.
4 x 9 hole competitions
Same as 9 and 18 hole putting competitions with a twist, the difference is that the golfer is to hit 2 balls from each spot and play their next shot from worst position out of the 2 balls. For example to get a hole on one you must hole out with both balls, if you hole out with one but miss with the other you have to play from the worst result.
Putting skills test
1m 9 balls around the hole from 1 m. repeat twice,
2m 9 balls around the hole from 2 m, repeat twice
10m 9 balls uphill 9 balls downhill the balls must finish in a 1m-semi circle behind the hole
2-5m at various distances around the hole (NSEW)
5-10m at various distances around the hole (NSEW)
The following chart is an example of how to arrange your time management for putting practice
Daily practice: 1 hour
Component
Set up
Teaches
Putting mirror
* putting mirror with middle line aimed at the line of putt.
* place ball on centre dot, eyes bisecting middle line and shoulders parallel with bottom line.
* eyes over the ball
* putter face square at address
* shoulders square
Definition
Drill
Objective
Short putting
* up to 5 feet
If you miss, start again.
Mid range putting
same as short putts except balls positioned randomly between 5 and 15 feet in n,e,s,w directions.
* hole 10 of 20 putts, when achieved, increase objective to 11, 12,13 etc.
Long range putting
* vary drills daily to ensure all different putts are encountered
Mid range putting
same as short putts except balls positioned randomly between 5 and 15 feet in n,e,s,w directions.
* hole 10 of 20 putts, when achieved, increase objective to 11, 12,13 etc.
Long range putting
* helps teach the art of lagging the first putt
Greater than 30 feet- drill 1
*If you missed, start again.
Long range putting
* If successful, move out 1 yard
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4. Drills and practice tips on how to improve
Chipping
Square stance will have the effect of using the true loft of the club. So on the occasions when you need to hit the ball higher you simply increase the loft by either using a more lofted club or by opening up the club face, however when you do this the club will aim to the right of the target so you will have to open up your stance (aim left of the target for right handers). In doing this the face will again be aiming at the target as well as effectively having more loft.
Learn to control distance is the objective.!!!!!!
Club selection
The main fault with the average player is that they use the lob and sand wedge for all shots irrespective of the distance.
Chipping the ball the back of the green with less loft is more reliable, therefore get the ball onto the green as soon as possible. Landing the ball on the first part of the green then running up to the hole is easier than flying all the way to the hole, the reasoning is that the smaller the swing the less chance of miss hitting
Technique
To move weight the weight onto the back foot, trying to lift the ball into the air (scooping)
Practice
Practice has two parts, technique and play. So when you want to work on your technique the target is irrelevant. Likewise when you work on playing (Target practice) do not think about technique.
Chipping Drills
The goal is to play to 9/18 holes in a score of at 1 under the card (17 for 9 holes/ 35 for 18 holes )
It will depend on how many holes there are on the chipping green.
4. Drills and practice tips on how to improve
Pitching
For the full swing when you want to adjust the distance you wish to hit the ball you simply change clubs to suit.
Pitching however is a partial swing, where the aim for this type of shot is more towards precision of distance and accuracy control. For the adjustment of distance the simple rule is have 3 different lengths of swing, couple with 3 different lofted clubs, like PW / SW / Lob. Using this fashion you will have 9 different distances to choice from when judging your approaches to the green. 9 choices will be sufficient to satisfy almost all pitching conditions. A pitching swing can be used with clubs up to a 5 iron.
Variations in Pitch shots
Technique:
A shot from outside 20 meters and until a length whereby a swing length less than ¾ length of normal is used.
4. Drills and practice tips on how to improve
Bunker play
Definition:
A bunker is defined as a hazard, grass covered ground bordering or within a bunker is not part of the bunker. A ball is in a bunker when it lies in or any part of it touches the bunker, as such according to the rules of golf a player may not ground his/her club.
Understanding how a sand wedge works is very important to your success in playing a bunker shot. You must understand that you are using the bottom of the club which is called the bounce. If you look at the bottom of the club the trailing edge is lower than the leading edge. When the club strikes the sand behind the ball the trailing edge hits first and bounces the leading edge under and forward propelling the ball out of the bunker. This is the only shot in golf that you are not trying to hit the ball in the percussion point (sweet spot) of the face. You should not allow the club face to close during the execution of this shot. You are trying to maintain the true loft of the wedge.
In golf's earliest history the sand iron had a sole of about 3mm thick, therefore to avoid digging too deep into the sand the golfer had to open the face considerably to the extent that the back of the club acted as a kind of bounce to prevent the club getting stuck into the sand.
However in order to cope with those olden type of sand irons the players of that era learnt that to swing more steeper into the ball provided the best outcome. Therefore the "V" shape swing, described as early wrist cock, pick the club head up and swing the club head into impact zone more directly down became the fashionable way to play the bunker shot, as opposed to the regular fairway swing path which produces a far more shallower angle of attack into the impact zone.
Reasons for this occurrence:
So i believe that only recently due to the influence of successful Tour pros has the "U" shape swing pattern started to became accepted as an alternative and more popular way to get out of bunkers, as opposed to the "V" shape swing pattern
Is there an easier way to get out of bunkers????
Using the chipping technique from a bunker and is very difficult and is not widely taught, these days there are two styles of swing patterns being adopted in the golfing world.
For the purpose of simplicity I will call these two swing patterns "U" shape and "V" shape
First of all let me outline the fundamental aspects of both these styles;
The "V" shape style is the more tradition and well known, but is very unique and complicated, as it varies from the regular swing pattern. The outline of this swing style is;
The acute angle or steep path of the downward swing, will produce amongst other things a very violent hit into the sand (ouch), and if you don't practice this technique a lot and if the ball position isn't appropriate then the consequences will be very inconsistent results, like hitting the ball first and going over the green, or taking too much sand, and therefore staying in the bunker.
This style is complex and requires a lot of skill to master, however there are some situations where this technique is profoundly useful. They are when you are in very deep bunkers, or when the flag is positioned quite close to the front edge of the bunker, or when the green is sloping away from you and you don't want the ball to roll to far away from the hole.
However don't try it useless you are confident of success, after all there are many ways to skin a cat. (Proverb)
Next is The "U" shape style; this style is best described as being more similar to the regular swing pattern used more commonly when playing from the Tees & fairways.
The outline of this swing style is;
Among other things adopting this swing path will see the club swinging into the impact position from a shallower path. Your club head will simply scrape the top portion of the sand's surface on which the ball is sitting, as a result you won't have to take so much sand and the divot will appear to be longer, therefore giving you more room to allow for your ball position.
As far technique for the "U" shape swing pattern, the stance & posture is similar to a pitching swing with a wider stance, for those who are not aware of this type of swing, firstly make your stance at least the width of your hips, with at least 60% of your body weight on your front leg, next screw your feet into the sand to avoid slipping during the swing.
Also it is very important to remember that the shape of the posture should resemble that of a normal impact position, which should see the spine tilted away from the target, and your left hip slightly higher than your right (for right handers).
Checking your set up shape / posture is best done in front of a mirror and on a daily basis.
Lastly stabilize your stance by settling your feet into the sand, so as to prevent unnecessary foot slides during the swing, and as your body is now slightly lower to the ball, it is advisable to grip down the club 2/3 inches to compensate.
The point to remember here is to not overlook the fact that the sand iron's club head is designed in such a way that there is already plenty of loft so that even with your regular fairway swing pattern and a square stance will be more than sufficient for you to get the ball out of most bunkers.
If however you happen to find yourself in a very deep bunker, or the flag is positioned very closely to the lip of the bunker, or even when the green is sloping away from you, in either case you will be impelled to try and get the ball to fly higher so that it will stop quickly, in these cases it will be necessary to increase the loft of the sand iron by opening it up, but remember to adjust your stance by opening it so that you don't incur any directional problems by having the clubface aiming too far to the right of the target, (opposite for left handers)
What this effectively does is increase the loft of the sand iron so the ball can initially fly in a higher trajectory, there fore making it easier to get the ball out of even the deepest bunker. However the consequence is that you will require a bigger or stronger swing to generate enough club head speed to compensate for the increased loft, so the risk of making a mistake becomes greater, but the rewards for a good result are also greater.
It is important to remember to also swing in the direction of where your body is pointing, this will ensure the most reliable and consistent results.
Your responsibility as a golfer is to decide your MOST APPROPRIATE strategy.
In closing:
The V shape swing path is the more traditional method, and in some cases there is a misconception that you must adopt this V shape/ style swing in all bunker situations, however the design of the sand iron is such that even the regular style of posture and swing path will be more than sufficient to get the ball out of most bunkers.
So don't be tied down by tradition; try the U shape swing path method and then you can decide.
Golf is complex enough with one style of swing let alone having to learn a separate technique (adopt different style) just for getting out of a bunker.
Apart from making your golf game less complicated, adopting only one swing style will save you a lot of time and hard earned money on practicing.
Common fundamental technical factors for playing from bunkers:
Learn how much sand to take by drawing circles in the sand,
First use your s/iron to draw a line of about 2m. In the sand, and then draw at 4 circles in the sand that join the straight line. Place a ball in the 4th. Circle.
In objective is to go along the line from the first circle making a swing so that the sand iron enters the sand at where the line is and then essentially remove the sand from the center of the circle. If successful continue to the next and the next and next and then do the same to the circle that has the ball in it
Adjust your ball to body position and swing path until you can regularly enter the s/iron on the line with out digging too deep. For normal conditions try to think of the swing path more like a "U" shape, where very little sand is taken, as apposed to a "V" shape which causes the club to take far too much sand, and requires a greater degree of skill in the timing of the entry into the sand as well as having the most appropriate ball position to match the acute angle of the downward swing there by producing very inconsistent results, like hitting the ball first and going over the green, or taking too much sand, and therefore staying in the bunker. Where as the "U" shape has a shallower path at the bottom and this will give you more room to allow for different ball positions. In other words less precision is required to get the ball out of most bunkers.
Next we will continue with the different type of conditions that you can experience while playing from bunkers.
Bunker Play: - Other types of lies in Bunkers and how to play from them
Bunker play distance control:
4. Drills and practice tips on how to improve
Hitting from undulating lies
High ball & low ball flight
For higher ball flight you can;
For a slice;
We have discussed how to hit low cutters and high hooks in a previous article, in this article I will introduce you to how to intentionally hit low & high ball flights.
On those occasions where you may part from the straight and narrow, you will probably encounter situations where the only way to go forward is to go under or over the obstacle that in between you and the target.
For higher ball flight try the following options and decide for yourself which is more suitable for you
Common aspects relating to hitting from slopes:
4. Drills and practice tips on how to improve
Intentional ball flights
In order to hit a straight ball the following conditions must be meet at the moment of impact
The following is based on an ideal model; therefore the degree of success will depend on your individual swing patterns. The is a need to know the relationship club head direction and face angle.
For example
When you swing at the target with an open face the balls goes right.
When you swing from the inside with an open face the ball goes more right.
When you swing from the outside with an open face the ball starts left then goes to the right.
Less loft more side spin.
More loft more backspin.
When you swing at the target with a closed face the ball goes left.
When you swing from the inside with a closed face the ball will go right to left and low as the face as less loft. (With the same club aiming left with an open face the ball goes higher as the face as more loft. but will curve less as there is an increase in back spin.
So generally speaking it is easier to hit right to left than left to right the question is how to chose the right club to achieve to right amount of side spin and yet generate enough backspin so as to keep it in the air long enough to reach the target.
Therefore a wedge will produce backspin easier than a driver, but on the other hand the driver can produce slice spin more easier. However is it hard to hook a ball that will stay in the air for very long due to the decreased loft.
As for hitting from the rough, there is less side spin generated on the ball due to the grass being trapped between the face and the ball, so if you are a slicer, don't allow for to much of your expected slice. And if the grass is not to long, it will effectively take the Back spin off the ball causing the ball to fly further than normal, this is called a "Flyer".
Intentional shots
The is a need to know the relationship of club head direction (path) and face angle, generally speaking your should aim your body where you intend the ball to begin it's flight, and then aim the club face to where you want the ball to finish.
Slice:
Body is aligned to the left of the target, and the clubface is aimed to where you want the ball to land, this effectively increases the loft of the club which in turn reduces the distance that the ball would normally go.
Things to consider are:
Body is aligned to the right, and the clubface is aimed to where you want the ball to land, this effectively reduces the loft of the club which in turn increases the distance the ball would normally go.
Things to consider are:
Place the ball back in your stance; your hands will be more forward than usual causing the face to become de-lofted.
High:
Increase loft by placing the ball further forwarding your stance, your hands will be less forward then usual creating more loft.
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4. Drills and practice tips on how to improve
What is a pre shot routine
The Pre-Shot Routine
It's not only the tour pros who can benefit from pre-shot routines - your game can benefit too. We will explain how to develop your own, and what to avoid
What is a Pre-Shot Routine (PSR)
It's a puzzle, isn't it - how to hit a golf shot. There are just too many things to consider. Technical stuff about your swing. Environmental considerations, like distance and wind. Strategy, mental stuff, like focusing on the target not the possibility of a bad shot.
A good PSR organises shot making, improves your concentration and sense of readiness, and so helps you play better golf with your existing skill set. It involves getting information (like distance etc.), making decisions, and preparing mind and body for executing the shot.
The Building Blocks
Understanding PSRs starts with understanding how you should be using your attention - what should occupy your mind, and when.
Attention is just like what you decide to focus on. Do you see the trees or the forest? (I.e., Narrow vs. Broad focus.) Are you thinking about how you feel or about what's going on around you? (I.e., Internal vs. External focus.)
A good PSR comprises a series of task-relevant steps in which the player progresses through four stages of attention use - see diagram. This helps direct mental resources effectively - everything that needs to be dealt with is addressed at an appropriate time.
A useful way of remembering the sequence is:
By the time you address the ball you should be totally committed to the shot with only one thing left to do - "put a swing on it".
When Attention is Misplaced
Many players have problems in shifting their attention through the stages positively, thoroughly and without looking back. And when attention is used wrongly, common errors appear.
When a player chokes they are likely to be excessively preoccupied with thoughts and feelings - their attention has become fixed in Narrow - Internal mode. Too many swing thoughts usually reflects attention becoming fixed in Broad - Internal mode.
These problems and others (e.g., negative thoughts, feeling pressure, uncertainty about club selection) can often be addressed through working on the PSR and how you use your attention
Bad Habits
Not all PSRs are good. Two bad PSR habits I'd like to mention are:
Time: the player who spends too much time over shots and takes too many practice swings. Common result: too many negative thoughts and too many swing thoughts. Neither produce good results.
Timing: the player who doesn't finish doing one thing before doing another. Common result: confusion and uncertainty. Makes it difficult to hit a decent shot, doesn't it!
Players who work on developing a good PSR will find improvements not only in performance but also in speed of play, clarity of thought, and positive attitude
Getting Your Own PSR
Become aware of your attention skills. Commit to dealing with shot making in a systematic way. Build good PSR habits at the driving range and in your pre-game warm up. Then use it consistently on the course
The machinery of your golf game will work better if you have a good set of operating instructions which you follow
How you deal with each attention stage is personal. For example, the waggle is usually a Narrow - Internal cue to your body, perhaps to help relax muscles or as a reminder of a good swing feeling. Craft it to your own needs.
As you develop your PSR, ensure you shift your mode of attention from one stage to the next. This can be improved through awareness, practice and specific exercises.
If your PSR leaves you unsure, uncommitted or locked in meaningless ritual, review your routine.
Mental preparation and Physical routines
Mental Preparation
Thinking - assess the situation and evaluate all the factors externally that will have and impact on the performance of the shot.
Imagination - the extension of the assessment of the shot and the requirement of the visualization of the golf shot.
Physical Routine
The development of a physical routine that constitutes the following points -
The swinging of the club is to be divided into two parts. Note also that this can also be altered for practice and playing
Practice - Development of the swing routine whereby the practice swing(s) taken before the shot are a slower of more technically specific swing e.g. drill which develops the technique
Playing - Development of the swing routine whereby the practice swing(s) taken before the shot are specific to either non-specific technical information or linked to a specific swing thought.
In addition to the above routine for play and practice it is important to realize that each shot played on the course will vary and generally the practice situation and environment will remain the same. Therefore note the importance of varying your practice and play schedule as much as possible.
A good routine has technical as well as mental aspects to it that need to be practiced like any other skill.
The technical functions of a good pre-shot routine are:-
* In addition, to assist with alignment for the stroke, try and select a small mark (either a leaf or different shade of grass) about a foot in front of your ball on the line of the shot to be played. This will give you a reference point to assist in aligning the club head to the target.
* It is simply then a case of maintaining your thoughts for the shot that you wish to play and a feel for the swing that will produce that shot until you hit the ball.
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4. Drills and practice tips on how to improve
Basic strategies for playing the game of golf
Understanding course management
There are two main rules of thumb that the average golfer should be taught in regard to plotting strategy on the golf course:
It is well known among professional golfers that it is not the quality of good shots, but rather the quality of bad shots, that determine whether a player is successful on tour.
With proper planning, average golfers can reduce the risk of hitting their ball into the worst possible positions.
DO NOT PLAN ON HITTING PERFECT SHOTS
Average golfers are notorious for trying to pull off golf shots with very little chance of success, save for executing the perfect stroke perfectly. It is imperative to allow for a margin of error in planning strategy.
The following are some common situations faced during every round of golf, following the above-mentioned rules of thumb.
TEESHOTS
It is important for the golfer to know if he or she is predominantly a left - to - right or a right - to - left player. If the golfer hits the ball primanly straight , then consideration should be given to the direction of miss hits . For example, If miss hits go primarily to the right, the player should be considered a left - to - right player for strategy purposes. Generally, a right - to - left player should tee the ball on the left side of the tee box ( A ) and a left - to - right player should tee the ball on the right side of the tee box ( B ). This serves to widen the landing area, in effect. If there is severe trouble close to one side of the fairway ( out of bounds , water hazard , difficult bunkering, etc ), then the ball should be teed on that side of the tee-box, regardless of ball flight tendencies ( C ). This will serve to help aim the ball away from the trouble
The tee shot should be aimed so that a straight ball will finish in the fairway. Foe example, a left - to - right player should aim down the left side of the fairway, allowing for the curve of the ball back to the center or right side of the fairway ( D ). Conversely , a right - to - left player should aim down the right side of the fairway ( E ).
If there is severe trouble close to the left side of a narrow fairway, for example, the left - to - right player should tee the ball on the left side of the tee box and proceed as normal ( F ). The right - to - left player may have to aim so that a straight ball finishes right of the fairway, as the normal curve must not allow the ball to come cIose to trouble ( G ) . With the severe trouble close to the right side of a narrow fairway, the situations are reversed, again dependant upon the predominant ball flight
Tip for advanced players:
Note that if the flagstick 15 on the Ieft side of the green, then the tee ball should be planned so it finishes on the right side of the fairway Conversely , if the flagstick 15 on the right side of the green , then plan for the ball to finish on the left side of the fairway ( H )
APPROACHSHOTS
If a flagstick is in the front part of the green, the golfer should aim for the middle of the green instead
There are two reasons for this:
Short iron approaches should be fired at the flagstick, regardless of pin position or ball flight tendencies. Also, if the advanced golfer's ball striking is particularly sharp that day , then most approaches can be fired at the flag
OTHER SITUATIONS:
Average golfers tend to aim their shots right at the flagstick, regardless of intervening trouble. Instead, the rule of thumb , ' ' Plan to avoid the worst trouble ' ' should be followed
For example, with a pin on the right side of the green guarded by a bunker, the ball should be played to the center or the left side of the green, talking the bunker out of play (L).
Another situation occurs when the green is unreachable, perhaps for a second shot on a par five, or when a shorter hitter can't reach the green. If the pin is on the left side of the green, guarded by bunker, the ball should be played down the right side of the fairway, helping to take the bunker out of play on the next Shot (M)
Tip for advanced players:
If there is a bunker guarding the green for a second shot to a par five, go ahead and hit the ball to the pin anyway, as the advanced player should not have too much trouble with a sand Shot.
· 1. Introduction to golf
The Game Of Golf
A game in which clubs with wooden or metal heads are used to hit a small, white ball into a number of holes, usually 9 or 18, in succession, situated at various distances over a course having natural or artificial obstacles, the object being to get the ball into each hole in as few strokes as possible.
Play of the game
Every game of golf is based on playing a number of holes in a given order. A round typically consists of 18 holes that are played in the order determined by the course layout. On a nine-hole course, a standard round consists of two successive nine-hole rounds. A hole of golf consists of hitting a ball from a tee on the teeing box (a marked area designated for the first shot of a hole, a tee shot), and once the ball comes to rest, striking it again. This process is repeated until the ball is in the cup. Once the ball is on the green (an area of finely cut grass) the ball is usually putted (hit along the ground) into the hole. The idea of resting the ball in the hole in as few strokes as possible may be impeded by various hazards, such as bunkers and water hazards.
Players walk (or drive in motorized carts) over the course, either singly or in groups of two, three, or four, sometimes accompanied by caddies who carry and manage the players' equipment and give them advice. Each player plays a ball from the tee to the hole, except that in the mode of play called foursomes two teams of two players compete, and the members of each team alternate shots using only one ball until the ball is holed out. When all individual players or teams have brought a ball into play, the player or team whose ball is the farthest from the hole is next to play. In some team events a player whose ball is farther from the hole may ask his partner to play first. When all players of a group have completed the hole, the player or team with the best score on that hole has the honor, that is, the right to tee off first on the next tee.
Each player acts as marker for one other player in the group, that is, he or she records the score on a score card. In stroke play, the score consists of the number of strokes played plus any penalty strokes incurred. Penalty strokes are not actually strokes but penalty points that are added to the score for violations of rules or utilizing relief procedures.
What is the origin of the word "golf"?
The word "golf" is not an acronym for anything. Rather, it derives linguistically from the Dutch word "kolf" or "kolve," meaning quite simply "club." In the Scottish dialect of the late fourteenth or early fifteenth century, the Dutch term became "goff" or "gouff," and only later in the sixteenth century "golf." The linguistic connections between the Dutch and Scottish terms are but one reflection of what was a very active trade industry between the Dutch ports and the ports on the east coast of Scotland throughout the fourteenth through seventeenth centuries. Some scholars suggest that the Dutch game of "kolf," played with a stick and ball on frozen canals in the wintertime, was brought by the Dutch sailors to the east coast of Scotland, where it was transferred on to the public linkslands and eventually became the game we know today.
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1. Introduction to golf
History Of Golf, And Other Facts And Figures
One of the basic fundamentals of golf is its history. Most other sports such as basketball, baseball, tennis and football, trace their roots back to the second half of the 19th century. For example baseball was founded in 1871.
However, golf is different. Golf's history goes back more than 550 years. There is evidence which states that the game, or a form of it, may have been played in China hundreds of years before that. The most accepted story is that golf started in Scotland in the early 1400s.
The first written reference to golf came in 1457, when the King of Scotland, James II, demanded a formal Art of Parliament to make playing golf illegal. It seemed that many of his soldiers were spending more time playing golf than they were practicing their archery.
* Think about that date: we know for a fact that golf was being played in Scotland 35 years before Columbus discovered America! *
A Chronological history of leading events in golf
The following is a partial timeline of the history of golf:
1354 -
The first recorded reference to "chole", the probable antecedent of golf. It is a derivative of hockey played in Flanders.
1421 -
A Scottish regiment aiding the French against the English at the Siege of Bauge is introduced to the game of chole. Hugh Kennedy, Robert Stewart and John Smale, three of the identified players, are credited with introducing the game in Scotland.
1457 -
Golf was banned by James II after a noticeable decline in the quality of Archery marksmanship.
1491 -
King James IV of Scotland reinstated golf as a legal activity.
1567 -
Queen Mary was 'accused' by her countrymen of playing golf, within two weeks of the murder of her husband.
1592 -
The town council of Edinburgh issued a proclamation against playing golf at LEITH on Sunday's. 'In tyme of sermonis'.
1618 -
Introduction of the 'feathery' ball.
1637 -
A man was convicted of stealing golf balls and sentenced to death.
1657 -
Record of colonists in Albany, NY playing golf... on the ice!
1718 -
A manuscript was published in England saying golf is the enemy of the medical professional because it was keeping people too healthy.
1718 -
A manuscript was published in England saying golf is the enemy of the medical professional because it was keeping people too healthy.
1743 -
Publication of "The Goff", the first book dedicated entirely to the sport.
1744 -
Drafting of the 13 Articles, the first rules of golf.
1748 -
A record of golf clubs and balls being shipped from Scotland to Russia, 250 years before the first golf course was built there.
1754 -
The course at St. Andrews, Scotland (now known as "The Old Course") consisted of 22 holes, and the St. Andrews Society declared that to be the standard.
1764 -
St. Andrews was reconfigured from 22 holes to 18 holes because some holes were too short; the standard has been 18 holes ever since.
1770 -
First record of clubs being offered in a catalogue.
1841 -
Invention of 'Gutta-Percha' golf ball.
1848 -
Introduction of the first "Gutta Percha" ball, made from the gutta percha trees in India. Prior to this, golf balls had been leather bags filled with feathers.
1857 -
World's first golf instructional book was written by "A Keen Hand".
1860 -
The first British Open championship was played.
1895 -
The first United States Open was played.
1901 -
Invention of the rubber-core Haskell Ball.
1916 -
The first PGA Championship was played.
1921 -
The Royal & Ancient golf club; Introduced the first limitations on the size and weight of balls.
1931 -
Dr Stableford of Liverpool devised a points scoring game as a variation away from Par & Stroke play.
1934 -
The first Masters Tournament was played.
1934 -
End of an era for Hickory Shafted golf clubs. Introduction of steel.
1935 -
The Sand Wedge was invented by American Gene Sarazen.
1947 -
The first U. S. Women's Open was played.
1951 -
Abolition of the "STYMIE".
1968 -
The game of Stableford received official blessing from the R&A and was incorporated into the rules of golf.
1975 -
Tiger Woods date of birth 30th December 1975.
1982 -
Discussion aimed at limiting the distance obtainable from modern ball. (Rendering classic old courses obsolete).
1985 -
Introduction of 'Metal Woods' onto the market (Fine Persimmon timber had become rare).
Milestones in the development of the rules of golf
1744 -
First written code of rules. Rule 1 stated: "You must tee your ball within a club's length of the hole."
1850 -
With the introduction of the 'Gutta Percha' ball, a new rule provided that if a ball broke up in flight another ball could be dropped without penalty where the largest piece was found.
1891 -
Time allowed in searching for a ball reduced from 10 to five minutes.
1897 -
Formation of the R & A Rules of Golf Committee.
1909 -
Limits on the form and make of clubs applied for the first time.
1922 -
Restrictions on the size and weight of golf balls imposed in an effort to limit the distance they would travel.
1929 -
Steel shafts became legal for the first time.
1939 -
Only 14 clubs to be carried from this date.
1949 -
To stop the spread of slow play, committees were empowered to disqualify players who unduly delayed others. Modified in 1952 to loss of hole or two-stroke penalty, with disqualification for repeated offences.
1952 -
First world code agreed between R&A and US Golf Association. Stymie abolished - players no longer forced to chip over an opponent's ball coming to rest between their ball and the hole in match play..
1960 -
Distance measuring devices banned.
1984 -
Ball no longer dropped over the player's shoulder, but at arm's length and at shoulder height.
1990 -
The 1.68-inch ball becomes the only legal ball, marking the demise of the 1.62 inch British ball.
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1. Introduction to golf
What Makes Up A Golf Course?
The anatomy of a golf course; Golf is played in an area of land designated the course. The course consists of a series of holes; hole or cup meaning both the pit in the ground to which the ball is played and the distance from the tee (the pre-determined point from where a ball is first struck into play) to the green (the low cut grass surrounding the hole). Most golf courses consist of eighteen holes.
Definitions- What makes up the course?
The Definitions section of the Rules of Golf contains over forty Definitions, which form the foundation around which the Rules of play are written. A good knowledge of the defined terms will help in the correct application of the Rules. These include:
Teeing Ground
The starting place for the hole, defined by two tee-markers. The first stroke on each hole is hit from the Tee (officially, teeing ground), where the player can use a tee (a small wooden or plastic peg), which makes the tee shot easier. Before the modern tee came into use, early golfers often used a small pyramid or block of sand to hold the ball. Most courses offer a range of Tee boxes to play from depending on a player's skill or handicap, making the hole longer or shorter depending on which Tees the player starts at. Often, the different Tee boxes have names associated with degree of competence (e.g., Professional and Amateur Tees), or by sex and age (Men's, Ladies', Senior, etc.). In addition to a difference in distance, the different Tees may also eliminate or reduce the danger of some hazards for the "Forward" tees, such as water hazards.
In golf, the teeing ground is the area at the beginning of a hole from which the player's first stroke is taken. When referring to the area, the terms "tee", "tee box", and "teeing ground" are often used interchangeably.
The boundaries of the teeing ground are defined by a pair of tee markers. The front, left and right sides of the tee are denoted by the outer edges of the tee markers, assuming the perspective of a player standing in the teeing ground and facing the hole. The teeing ground is two club-lengths in depth.
Most courses have at least three sets of tee markers (some may have six or more), each a different color and denoting different yardages. Some commonly used tee marker colors are below, along with a general description of who plays from what color. The tee box that a person plays from is not set by rules; in casual play, anyone can use any tee box they wish to. Note that not all courses have all colors, and some may use a completely different color scheme for their tee markers.
- Black usually denotes the tee used for championship play in tournaments, and is almost always the longest yardage for each hole.
- Blue (or "back") is the tee used by skilled male players who have a low handicap.
- White (or "middle") is the tee used most often by men, typically those who have a middle or high handicap.
- Yellow (or gold) can have two meanings: if it's behind the white tees, it's usually for championship play. If in front of the white tee markers (but before the red tee markers), it typically denotes where senior men hit from.
- Red (or "forward") is the tee that women usually hit from, and usually offers the shortest yardage on many courses.
- Green tee markers often have shorter yardage even than the red tee markers, and usually indicate where juniors and beginners hit from.
Fairway (Closely mown area extending from tee box to green)
After teeing off, the player again hits the ball to the green from where it came to rest, either from the fairway or from the rough. Exceptions are short par three holes, where the second shot may lie directly on the putting green or in the rough. Playing the ball from the fairway is advantageous, because fairway grass is very short and even, allowing the player to cleanly strike the ball, while playing from the rough is disadvantageous, because the grass in the rough is generally much longer, which may affect the flight of the ball.
While many holes are designed in a straight line from the tee-off point to the green, some of the holes may bend either to the left or to the right. This is called a "dogleg", in reference to a dog's knee. The hole is called a "dogleg left" if the hole angles leftwards, and vice versa; rarely, a hole's direction can bend twice, and is called a "double dogleg."
Putting Green
To putt is to play a stroke using the putter club. Usually, this stroke is played on the green where the ball does not leave the ground. Once on the green, the ball is putted (struck with the eponymous flat-faced club to roll it along the ground) towards the hole until the ball falls into the cup. The grass of the putting green (more commonly the green) is cut very short so that a ball can roll distances of several yards. The growth direction of the blades of grass affects the golf ball's roll and is called the grain of the green. The slope or break of the green also affects the roll of the ball. The cup is always found within the green (at least ten feet from the edge), and must have a diameter of 108 mm (4.25 in.) and a depth of at least 100 mm (3.94 in.). Its position on the green is not fixed and may be changed from day to day. The cup usually has a flag on a pole positioned in it so that it identifies the holes position on the green, and may be seen from a distance, but not necessarily from the tee; this flag-and-pole combination is called the pin.
Putting greens are not all of the same quality. Generally, the finest-quality greens are well kept so that a ball will smoothly roll over the closely-mowed grass. Golfers describe a green as fast if a light stroke to the ball makes it roll a long distance, conversely, a slow green is one where a stronger stroke is required to roll the ball the required distance; a stimp meter is used to determine and measure the exact speed of a green. More than one green is measured, the average of the measured greens is used to determine how fast or slow a Golf Course's greens are. These measurements are compared with other courses' Stimp Metre measurements.
Apron/Fringe:
The grass surface on the perimeter of the green that separates it from the fairway.
Through the Green:
The whole area of the golf course except the teeing ground and putting green of the hole being played and all hazards.
Hazards (any bunker or water hazard)
Many holes include hazards, which may be of three types:
- Water hazards such as lakes, rivers, et cetera
- Man-made hazards such as bunkers
- Lateral hazards such as dense vegetation, bushes, and gardens
Bunker
A bunker or sand trap is a hazard in the game of golf. It is a depression near the green or fairway that is filled with sand. It is difficult to hit the ball out of the bunker and entering it is therefore considered punitive to a golfer who misses the target with the previous shot. A club called a "sand wedge" is designed for extracting the ball from a bunker, a process requiring well-developed skill. After a player is done using the "bunker" or "sand trap," it is his or his caddie's job to rake the area of the sand disturbed during play. There are specific rules governing play from a bunker [please refer to the Rules of Golf].
There are three types of bunkers used in golf course architecture and all are designed to be impediments to the golfer's progress toward the green.
- Fairway bunkers are designed primarily to gather up wayward tee shots on par 4 and par 5 holes. They are located to the sides of the fairway or even in the middle of the fairway.
- Greenside bunkers are designed to collect wayward approach shots on long holes and tee shots on par 3 holes. They are located near and around the green.
- Waste bunkers are usually very large and thin structure running along a natural hazard like a lake or river and are design to collect wayward tee shots. They are usually located along the fairway and are given a slightly different treatment within the Rules.
Water Hazards
Like bunkers, are natural obstacles designed to add both visual interest and difficulty to a golf course. Water hazards are typically either streams or ponds, situated between the teeing ground and the hole.
- "Lateral" water hazards (marked with red stakes around the perimeter of the hazard) are usually adjacent to the hole being played.
- "Regular" water hazards (marked with yellow stakes) are generally cross the hole being played, forcing the player to hit over the water hazard.
The borders of a golf course are marked, and play beyond them is out of bounds, (sometimes referred by the slang term, "Oscar Brown" or simply, "OB") that are, ground from which a ball must not be played, i.e. not part of the course and play is prohibited.
If a golfer hits the ball out of the course, into the "out of bounds", the player must hit a ball from nearly the same position as the original ball was played, with a penalty of one stroke.
A ball is out of bounds when all of it lies out of bounds.
Other Areas
Some areas of the course are designated as ground under repair ("G.U.R."), where greens-keepers are affecting repairs or where the course is damaged. A ball coming to rest in this spot may be lifted, and then played from outside the G.U.R. without penalty. Certain man-made objects on the course are defined as obstructions (i.e. distance posts, gardens, et cetera), and specific rules determine how a golfer may proceed when the play is impeded by these.
- Ground Under Repair - Any portion of the course so marked by the Committee. Also includes material piled for removal and a hole made by a green keeper, even if not so marked.
- Loose Impediments - natural objects such as stones, leaves and twigs provided they are not fixed or growing, are not solidly embedded and are not sticking to the ball.
- Obstructions - any man-made object, except:
- Objects defining out of bounds
- Any part of an immovable man-made object which is out of bounds
- Any construction declared by the Committee in the Local Rules to be an integral part of the course
- Casual Water - any temporary accumulation of water on the course, which is visible before or after the player, takes his stance (dew and frost are not casual water).
A handicap is obtained when a player has handed in five * 18 hole score cards. The actual handicap number is calculated from the average score of the 5 score cards, however in some cases there is a limit to the maximum score that a payer can shoot. Please check with the management of your respective golf club.
Driving Range
Often, there is a practice range or driving range, usually with practice greens, bunkers, and driving areas. Markers showing distances are usually included on a practice range to benefit the golfer. There may even be a practice course (often shorter and easier to play than full scale golf courses), where golfers practice to measure how far they can hit with a specific club or to improve their swing technique.
Golf Course And Holes
- A typical golf course has 18 holes
- Front Nine (Hole #1-9) & Back Nine (Hole #10-18)
- It is made up of a combination of par 3's, 4's and 5's
- The PAR of a typical golf course is 72 strokes
Example of Par 3:
91 - 224 metres long
(100-250 yds)
One Stroke (reachable) On the Green & Two Putts
Example of Par 4:
225 - 434 metres long
(251-475 yds)
Two Strokes (reachable) On the Green & Two Putts
Example of Par 5:
424 - 621 metres long
(476-690 yds)
Three Strokes (reachable) On the Green & Two Putts
ONLINE CLASSROOM
1. Introduction to golf
Info On Clubs And Balls, are other necessary equipment
Golf Clubs:
Maximum number of clubs per bag is 14
Beginners ½ set:
Irons: 3, 5, 7, 9, Sand iron, 3 wood and Putter
Standard Full Set:
- Putter
- Irons - 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, Pitching Wedge and Sand Wedge
- Woods - 1, 3, 5 or 7 or 9 or Utility/Rescue Woods
Used for putting on the Greens where turf are closely mown.
Iron
Used on the fairway for specific distance or approach shots. Also used on short holes for teeing off.
Wood, Metal & Persimmon
Used on the Teeing Ground (Tee-Boxes) for tee-shots or start of each hole.
Lofts have gradually changed over the past 30 years (look at the chart), so picking the best 14 may need re-assessment.
1970 irons
2000 irons (ideal)
Type
Loft
Length
Type
Loft
Length
Driver
11 degrees
43.5 inches
Driver
9 degrees
44 inches
3-wood
15 degrees
42 inches
3-wood
14 degrees
43 inches
2-iron
20 degrees
38.5 inches
2-iron
19 degrees
39.5 inches
3-iron
24 degrees
38 inches
3-iron
22 degrees
39 inches
4-iron
28 degrees
37.5 inches
4-iron
25 degrees
38.5 inches
5-iron
32 degrees
37 inches
5-iron
28 degrees
38 inches
6-iron
36 degrees
36.5 inches
6-iron
31 degrees
37.5 inches
7-iron
40 degrees
36 inches
7-iron
34 degrees
37 inches
8-iron
44 degrees
35.5 inches
8-iron
37 degrees
36.5 inches
9-iron
48 degrees
35 inches
9-iron
42 degrees
36 inches
PW
52 degrees
35 inches
PW
48 degrees
35.5 inches
SW
56 degrees
35 inches
SW
54 degrees
35.5 inches
LW
LW
60 degrees
35 inches
In making a decision, work up from the wedges, trying to keep the loft gap between the pitching, sand and lob fairly even (eg. 48, 54 and 60 degrees).
Otherwise you'll have trouble controlling distance on approach shots.
ONLINE CLASSROOM
1. Introduction to golf
What Do You Need In Your Golf Bag?
Other essentials:
Rule Book
Balls
Umbrella
Water-proofs
Tees
Markers
Pens/Pencils
Clothing
Golf glove
Club head Covers
Towel
Snacks:
Fruit (Banana is the best),
1 fruit & nut mixture,
1 pre-prepared drink essential in summer.
First aid:
Preventative medicine,
Band aids/Elastoplasts,
Ventolin for asthmatics
and most importantly sun block (30+ is preferred for outdoor sports).
ONLINE CLASSROOM
1. Introduction to golf
Basic Golfing Terminologies & Definitions
A
Address
:
The positioning of the body and the club in order to hit the ball in a desired direction.
Ace
:
Hole in one, usually on par 3's.
Albatross
:
A score of 2 on a par 5.
Advice on the course
:
Comments given to a fellow player the may influence that players decision on how to play his next shot.
Alignment
:
The alignment of the body relative to the target.
Arc
:
The shape of the club head's path that it describes while swinging.
Attending the flag
:
Holding the flag in place in readiness for your opponent's play on the green.
B
Backspin
:
The rotation of the ball such that the rear of the ball (as viewed by the player) rotates downwards.
Back swing
:
That part of the golf swing from address to the change of direction at the top.
Balance(Static)
:
The relationship of the body's center of gravity to the enclosed area of the feet.
Balance(Dynamic)
:
The stability of the body during the motion of the golf swing.
Ball Position
:
The position of the ball relative to the feet - the absolute distance from the feet relative to the length of the golf club being used.
Birdie
:
One under par.
Bogey
:
One over Par.
Block
:
A shot that goes straight right, without curving, (based on a right hander).
Bowed
:
The state of the target wrist when the hand is rotated towards the body.
Bunker
:
A hazard filled with sand, can be fairway as well as bunker.
Butt
:
The top of the handle of the golf club.
C
Caddie
:
A person other than the player who carries the golf bag for a player.
Casual Water
:
Any temporary accumulation of water on the course which is visible before or after the player takes his stance and is not a water hazard. Snow and ice are either casual water or loose impediments, at the option of the player, except that manufactured ice is an obstruction. Dew is not casual water.
Closed Face
:
The angle of the clubface at impact when it is rotated anticlockwise relative to a perpendicular to the target line. (For a right hand golfer).
Cupped
:
The state of the target wrist when the hand is rotated away from the body.
D
Divot
:
A piece of turf cut out of the ground by the action of striking the ball from the ground.
Down The Line
:
When the club shaft is parallel to the target line.
Downswing
:
That part of the swing from the change of direction at the top to impact.
Draw
:
When the ball curves gently from right to left in the air due to imparted sidespin. (For a right handed golfer).
Driver
:
The club that can hit the furthest, usually the longest in the bag.
E
Eagle
:
Two under the regulation par of any given hole.
Embedded ball
:
The condition of the ball when sunken below the level of the ground or sand.
F
Face
:
The hitting surface of the golf club.
Fairway
:
An area on each hole that is designated to be the safest location to play from, this grass in this area is trimmed down to allow for good contact to occur.
Face On
:
The view of the frontal plane of the golfer (a mirror image of the observer).
Fade
:
When the balls curves gently from left to right in the air due to imparted side spin. (For a right handed golfer).
Fat
:
When the ball is struck above the center of gravity of the clubface or the ground is struck before the ball.
Finish
:
The end of the swing when the arms and body have come to rest.
Flag stick
:
A pole with a flag attached to indicate the location of the hole on the green.
Flat Wrist
:
The state of the target wrist when the hand is in line with the forearm.
Flier
:
The lively ball response that occurs when a lubricant (usually grass juice) is trapped between the clubface and the ball at impact.
Fore-caddie
:
A "forecaddie" is one who is employed by the Committee to indicate to players the position of balls during play. He is an outside agency.
G
Gimmie
:
A putt of such short distance that it is expected to be holed without the need for a careful set up.
G.U.R.
:
Ground under repair, if your ball is within this marked area you are allowed a free drop no nearer the hole.
Green
:
The location designated as the target area for each hole.
Grip
:
The position of the hands on the handle of the golf club.
Grounding the club
:
When in a Hazard the rules forbid you to place the club on the ground, in case you improve your lie.
H
Handicapper
:
A person designated by the golf club to manage and administer Handicaps.
Hanging Lie
:
When the ball is below your feet in your address position.
Hazard
:
An area within the golf course where you are not permitted to ground your club could be bunkers, water, or ground.
Heel
:
The part of the clubface closest to the hosel.
Hole
:
The place where the flagstick rests in, the place where ultimately the ball must finish in to determine your score for each hole you play.
Holed out
:
Means that you have completed a hole in golf.
Honor
:
The side entitled to play first from the teeing ground is said to have the "honor." The person who had the best nett score on the previous hole, or has the lowest Handicap, will have to right to hit first.
Hook
:
When the ball curves severely from right to left in the air due to imparted sidespin. (For right handed golfer).
Hosel
:
The part of the club head that connects to the shaft.
I
Impact
:
The point in time when the clubface first contacts the ball.
Inside
:
When the arms and/ or club shaft is on the body side of the desired position.
Interlocking grip
:
A type of grip where the little finger of the right hand links with the index finger of the left. (For right-handers).
L
Lie
:
Condition of the ground below the ball.
Lateral water hazard
:
A water hazard or that part of a water hazard so situated that it is not possible or is deemed by the Committee to be impracticable to drop a ball behind the water hazard in accordance with Rule 26-1b. That part of the water hazard to be played as lateral water hazard should be distinctively marked. Note: Lateral water hazards should be defined by red stakes or lines.
Local rules
:
Special rules especially create for the specific needs of each golf course.
Lost Ball
:
A ball is "lost" if it is not found or identified as his by the player within five minutes after the player's side or his or their caddies have begun to search for it.
Loose impediments
:
Natural objects such as stones, leaves, twigs, branches and the like, dung, worms and insects and casts or heaps made by them, provided they are not fixed or growing, are solidly embedded and do not adhere to the ball. Sand and loose soil are loose impediments on the putting green, but not elsewhere. Snow and ice are either casual water or loose impediment, at the option of the player, except that manufactured ice is a movable obstruction.Dew is not a loose impediment.
M
Marker
:
A "marker" is one who is appointed by the Committee to record a competitor's score in stroke play. He may be a fellow-competitor. He is not a referee.
Match play
:
A type of match where it is played head to head.
Medal play
:
A type of game where you have to count all your strokes, also called stroke play.
Metal Woods
:
The name used to describe the material used to make modern Woods.
N
Nap
:
Texture of the green.
Neutral
:
When the grip is not rotated away from the natural position.
O
Open
:
When the angle of the clubface is likely to produce an open clubface at impact (for any position of the swing).
Open Face
:
The angle of the clubface at impact when it is rotated clockwise relative to a perpendicular to the target line. (For right hand golfer).
O.O.B.
:
Out of Bounds.
Outside
:
When the arms and/ or club shaft are on the outside (away from the body) of the desired position.
Outside agency
:
An object, which is not an integral part of the golf course.
P
Par
:
A score that a good player is expected to shoot on any given golf hole, the method being, drive on fairway, on the green in regulation, then 2 putts.
Path
:
The direction of the club relative to the target line.
Penalty
:
Incurred when a breach of the rules has occurred.
Pitching
:
A shot that ranges in distance from 20 yards to 100 yards. Less than full effort is used.
Pitchfork
:
An instrument used to repair marks on the green made by the ball landing.
Pivot
:
The motion of the legs and torso during the swing.
Plane
:
The notional two-dimension surface that the club shaft is traveling on at any time.
Plane Line
:
A line that is parallel to the target line and passes through the point where a line that is an extension of the shaft hits the ground.
Position 1 - 10
:
Static positions of the swing that are used as checkpoints for the geometric integrity of the swing.
Posture
:
The shape of the body in terms of joint angles (particularly the back).
Provisional ball
:
A second ball hit into play when the player is unsure of the first one is still in play or not.
Pull
:
When the plane of motion has been rotated to the left (for a right handed golfer) during the swing.
Push
:
When the plane of motion has been rotated to the right (for a right handed golfer) during the swing.
Putt
:
The stroke made on the putting green used to roll the ball into the hole.
R
Radial Alignment
:
When the plane of motion of the shaft is parallel to, and pointing at, the target line.
Radius
:
The distance from the hands to the center of rotation of the body during the swing.
Release
:
The unlocking of the wrists during the downswing.
Rhythm
:
Overall fluency or flow of the swing, smoothness and coordination of movements.
Rub of the green
:
A "rub of the green" occurs when a ball in motion is accidentally deflected or stopped by any outside agency (See Rule 19-1).
S
Scoop
:
When the golfer tries to elevate the ball with a lifting motion at impact.
Scratch
:
A handicap score that means a player's average score is equal to the par of the course.
Separation
:
The moment in time when the ball leaves the clubface (as opposed to first hitting the clubface).
Set-up
:
The geometric relationships of the golfer's body, the club and the ball when in the address position.
Shallow
:
When the plane of motion of the club shaft is flatter than that desired.
Shaft
:
That part of the golf club that connects the grip to the head.
Shank
:
When the ball is struck such that part of the hosel makes contact with the ball.
Side Spin
:
The rotation of the ball around its vertical axis - causes the ball to swerve sideways in the air.
Sky
:
When the ball is struck very high on the clubface.
Slice
:
When the ball curves severely from left to right in the air due to imparted side spin. (For right handed golfer).
Slide
:
The lateral motion of the hips during the swing.
Sole
:
The base (underneath) of the club head.
Square
:
When the angle of the clubface is likely to produce a square (perpendicular to the target line) clubface at impact (for any position of the swing).
Stableford
:
A type of game played where the player gets 2 points for a nett par, and 3 points for a nett birdie and so on.
Stroke-play
:
A type of game where the score is determined by the total hits taken.
Stance
:
The location and angle of the feet relative to the target line.
Steep
:
When the plane of motion of the club shaft is steeper than that desired.
Strong Grip
:
When the hands are rotated clockwise relative to a neutral grip (for a right handed golfer).
Sweet Spot
:
The center of gravity of the club head.
Swing
:
The motion of the body and the club.
Surlyn covered ball
:
A type of golf ball cover.
T
Take-away
:
The starting movement of the swing away from the ball.
Target Line
:
A line extending from the target and through the ball.
Target Side
:
The side of the body closest to the finish.
Tee
:
An object that sticks into the ground, which supports the ball above the ground.
Teeing ground
:
A designated flat area that indicates the starting places for each hole.
Tempo
:
The speed of the swing.
Through Swing
:
That part of the swing from impact to the finish.
Through the Green
:
Any part of the golf courses that is not part of the fairway or green.
Tilt
:
The angles of the spine relative to the ground when viewed from the frontal and down the line positions.
Toe
:
That part of the clubface that is farthest from the hostel.
Thin
:
When the ball is struck low on the clubface.
Timing
:
The various muscle parts of the swing fire.
Top
:
The position during the swing where the club changes direction, or the act of striking the ball very low on the clubface.
Trail Side
:
The side of the body farthest to the target.
Trajectory
:
The angle that the path of the ball makes relative to a horizontal surface at any time during its flight.
Trap
:
Another word for bunker.
W
Weak Grip
:
When the hands are rotated anticlockwise relative to a neutral grip (for a right handed golfer).
Weight Transfer
:
The process of shifting the center of gravity of the golfer either by moving the center of gravity or changing the shape of the body.
ONLINE CLASSROOM
1. Introduction to golf
Common Golf Shots
(The following are made under the assumption that the golfer in question is right-handed)
Straight
:
Ball takes straight line to target. (Most difficult shot in golf to execute consistently)
Fade
:
Ball curves slightly from left to right.
Slice
:
Larger curve from left to right.
Banana Slice
:
Even larger curve from left the right.
Draw
:
Ball moves marginally from right to left.
Hook
:
More pronounced version of the draw (right to left).
Duck Hook
:
Greater pronounced version of the hook, usually flies low then suddenly drops.
Block / Push
:
The ball flies directly to the right of the target without any curve.
Air-shot
:
Golfer misses the ball entirely. Sometimes called a 'fresh air-shot'. Or 'swish'.
Fat Shot
:
Occurs when the club head hits the ground first and then the ball. Also known as a 'heavy' shot.
Flyer
:
Occurs when grass gets in between the ball and the clubface, reducing spin and therefore increasing distance that the ball is expected to fly (10-20m).
Lob Shot
:
A slow, rhythmical short distance shot - played with height and often over bunkers. Lands softly with little roll on green.
Pulled Shot
:
A ball that flies directly left of target - without any curve.
Shank
:
A Ball that contacts with the hosel and flies off at virtually right angles to the intended flight.
Skied Shot
:
Happens when the Ball hits the highest part of the clubface, resulting in unusually high trajectory and loss of distance.
Thin Shot
:
Opposite of a 'fat' shot, the thin shot has no divot, shooting off with no backspin.
Topped Shot
:
Occurs when the club head hits the top of the ball.
ONLINE CLASSROOM
2. How to learn
- Laws Principles and preferences
- Golfing skills and Sequence of swing development
- Taking lessons
- How to practice
- Are you fit enough for golf (Physical fitness)
Ball Flight Laws:
LAW is a statement of an order or relation of phenomena that so far as is known is invariable under given conditions.
When we speak of Law in the model, don't infer that Law deals directly with the golf swing. It doesn't. Law here refers to the physical forces which are absolutes in influencing the flight of the ball. There are no absolutes in the golf swing, only Principles. Absolutes are reserved for ball flight, that's why they are called Laws.
The following five factors are the Laws in this model. The Ball Flight Laws (assessed at the moment of impact) are:
- SPEED
The velocity with which the club head is traveling. Speed influences the distance the ball will be propelled, as well as the trajectory and shape of the resulting shot.
Club Head Speed: The speed of the club head when it makes solid contact with the ball will determine the distance it will travel. - CENTEREDNESS
The exactness with which the ball makes contact on the face of the club relative to the percussion point or "sweet spot." Contact could be either on the center, fore (toe), aft (heel), above or below that "sweet spot."
Centeredness Of Club Contact: How closely to the center of percussion of the club head face a ball is struck influences its distance and direction. - PATH
The direction of the arc described by the club-head in its travel away from then aback toward the target. Its line of travel at impact is one of the primary factors influencing direction for a full shot.
Club Head Path: The balls starting direction is determined in part by the line of the path of the club head at impact. - FACE
The degree at which the leading edge of the clubface is at right angles to the swing path. It will determine the accuracy of the ball's flight along that line, or produce a left or right curve away from that line.
Club Head Face: The flight of the ball is determined in part by the alignment of the clubface relative to the path of the swing. - ANGLE OF APPROACH
The angle formed by the descending or ascending arc of the club head on the forward swing in relation to the slope of the ground. Due to its influence on the ball's spin rate, the trajectory and the distance the ball travels will be affected by this angle.
Angle Of Approach: The angle of the club head as it approaches impact.
Face override is important to understand because the effect of face position on curving shots is approximately double the effect of path position. In other words, a three degree error in face will provide approximately the same amount of curve as a six degree error in the path. So a swing path that travels to the right of the intended line, for example, will not always start the ball to the right if the face position is extreme enough to over come the influence of club head path instead, you may get a "Pull hook" ball flight.
The club head speed also is a factor here the greater the speed, the closer the ball will start out on the swing path. The Iess the speed, the closer it will start on the face impact position.
Therefore, keep in mind that while the ball frequently starts on the path line and curves according to the face position, there are extreme cases where that starting line will differ and where it will be affected by the other ball flight laws, particularly club head speed.
Obviously, there are equipment factors such as clubface loft, construction of the ball, material of the hitting surface, etc., which will influence the distance and direction of the ball's flight. Environmental conditions such as temperature, humidity, wind, terrain and altitude also have an effect. There are also psychological elements which can influence all five laws. But in this model, consideration is given only to the human physical factors and, specifically, those over which we have some control.
Ball Flight Law ranks as the first priority because they are absolute rather than arbitrary. They work every time without fail. The ball is not concerned with swing style. It responds to being stuck without any prejudice toward the striker. It doesn't ask what particular swing method is being used, nor does it care about one's handicap, club affiliation, sex or age. The ball follows the basic Ball Flight Laws, whether the player uses an open or square stance, has a fast or slow backswing, an overlapping or tender fingered grip, a firm or cupped wrist, or emphasizes leverage or centrifugal force as the primary source of power. Yet, all these could have an important influence on the flight of the ball.
In order to hit a straight ball the following conditions must be meet at the moment of impact:
- Square face. (Face angle perpendicular to the target line)
- The path of the club head is in accordance with the target line.
- The angle of incidence meaning the angle of the face where you can perfectly catch the ball.
Principles Of Golf:
Fundamental considerations in the swing which have a direct bearing on a player's application of the Laws.
There are fundamental considerations in the swing which have a direct bearing on a player's application of the Laws. In this model they are labeled "Principles-- Principles of the Swing." Whereas the Laws are irrefutable and absolute, principles reflect some subjective judgment on the mechanics of the swing.
Listing these elements does not mean the list is all-inclusive. The reader may feel there are additional items needed to improve the model. The principle is listed, followed by a description of the principle, its primary influence on distance or direction, its effect on one or more of the Laws and the goals of the principle.
They are:
Preferences: Pre-Swing:
- Posture
- Grip
- Stance
- Alignment; body and club face
- Ball & club head position
- Takeaway pattern
- Swing center / Turn / Pivot angles & extent
- Radius & the lever system
- Weight transference
- Swing plane, path & length of arc
It is not necessary to know how many as the count would reach a great total. The point is that there have been and will be many great players that will display techniques, like grip, stance and swing pattern that have noticeable differences, but yet can produce a ball flight that looks almost the same and produce results that are of equally high standard.
Principles Of Golf: Pre-Swing, The Swing's Starting Position (Setup)
Fundamental considerations in the swing which have a direct bearing on a player's application of the Laws
There are fundamental considerations in the swing which have a direct bearing on a player's application of the Laws. In this model they are labeled "Principles-- Principles of the Swing." Whereas the Laws are irrefutable and absolute, principles reflect some subjective judgment on the mechanics of the swing.
Listing these elements does not mean the list is all-inclusive. The reader may feel there are additional items needed to improve the model. The principle is listed, followed by a description of the principle, its primary influence on distance or direction, its effect on one or more of the Laws and the goals of the principle. They are:
POSTURE:
(A player's posture, ball position, stance, weight distribution, and muscular readiness.)
Primary Influence:
Distance & Direction
Effect:
Setup can influence all five laws
Goals:
- Skeletal balance
- Ankles under shoulder joints
- Ball position in line with the base of sternum points at ball
- Forward spine tilt from hips
- Spine tilt to trail side
- Set center of rotation
(Placement, positioning, pressure and precision related to applying the hands to the club in relation to the shape and positioning of the body's posture.)
Primary Influence:
Direction
Effect:
Grip has the greatest influence upon clubface position
Placement:
(How far up or down the shaft the hands are placed) can alter the club's effective length.
Positioning:
(the clockwise or counterclockwise rotation of the hands on the grip) by altering the hands a half-inch counterclockwise from normal on the grip can cause the face to open enough for a 30-yard slice.
Grip pressure:
(The amount of squeezing) influences timing, speed and control
Precision:
(Taking the same grip each time is critical for consistency
Goals:
Club face alignment square to hand position, shoulders, elbow and wrist joints alignment square to club face position
STANCE:
(A player's posture, ball position, stance, weight distribution, and muscular readiness.)
Primary Influence:
Distance & Direction
Effect:
Setup can influence all five laws
Goals:
- Skeletal balance
- Ankles under shoulder joints
- Ball position in line with the base of sternum points at ball
(A player's ball position)
Primary Influence:
Direction
Effect:
The ball position will affect the angle of approach by the club head. A ball played forward in the stance reduces the angle of approach, adds loft to the face and results in a higher shot. A ball played farther back results in the opposite.
Goals:
From an Ideal perspective, the ball position would be in-line with the base of sternum; besides this the best ball position is the one that matches up with the bottom of the arc of the golf swing.
ALIGNMENT:
(The position of the joints of the body and the club face in relation to the target)
Primary Influence:
Direction
Effect:
The position of the joints strongly influences the club path.
Goals:
Shoulder joints and arms should be parallel to the target line. Hips and legs should be set so shoulders can be parallel to the target line.
AIM:
(The alignment of the clubface in relation to the target.)
Primary Influence:
Direction
Effect:
Aim is one of the most influential principles. Aim influences clubface position at impact which influences ball flight.
Goals:
Clubface at 90 degrees (right angle) to target line.
Principles of Golf: In Swing
Fundamental considerations in the swing which have a direct bearing on a player's application of the Laws.
TAKEAWAY:
(The tilt and direction of travel of the inclined plane made by the club shaft during the first phase of the swing.)
Primary Influence:
Direction
Effect:
The takeaway is determined by the angle of the club shaft relative to the ball and to the ground. The takeaway is on plane when, during the back swing, an extension of the club head points to the target line. Takeaway determines the degree of arm rotation and the clubfaces relative squareness to the swing plane.
Goals:
To maintain the setup angle of the shaft and the squareness of the club face in readiness for the start of the backswing.
SWING CENTER:
(ROTATIONAL) (A point located in the upper spine around which the upper body rotation and swing of the arms takes place.)
Primary Influence:
Distance & Direction
Effect:
When the center of rotation moves, the arc of the circle made by the club head also moves, and striking the ball consistently in the center of the clubface becomes more difficult. The shorter the shot, the more constant the swing center should stay. Additional lateral freedom can be allowed as greater power is sought, but movements that are up and down, away from or toward the ball are discouraged. The motion the spine makes during the swing controls the center point.
Goals:
Maintain the forward tilt angle of the spine and allow the pivot point (swing center) to be in the upper back through to the sternum.
SWING PLANE & PATH:
(The tilt and direction of travel of the inclined plane made by the club shaft.)
Primary Influence:
Direction
Effect:
The swing plane is determined by the angle of the club shaft relative to the ball and to the ground. The swing is on plane when, during the back swing, an extension of the club head points to the target line or is parallel to it, and in the forward swing the butt end of the club would intersect a line drawn through the ball to the target. Plane determines path.
Goals:
Return the club on a chosen path to a position where the shaft lie angle is at or close to the club's lie angle with the shaft tilt in the desired direction.
LENGTH OF ARC:
(The distance the club head travels in the back swing and forward swing.)
Primary Influence:
Distance
Effect:
A short putt needs only a short back swing. On 20-yard pitch shot a longer swing than on the putt is required but not a full swing. Length of back swing is a contributing factor to swing pace or speed and, therefore, distance. If the arc length is shortened in the follow-through that's a good indication of deceleration at impact.
Goals:
Reach the point of maximum leverage at the top of the back swing. Maintaining swing center, have levers fully extended through impact.
RADIUS(WIDTH OF ARC):
(The distance the grip end travels in the back swing and the forward swing.)
Primary Influence:
Distance
Effect:
If the lead arm is noticeably bent at impact, club head speed is reduced due to a shortened lever. This is similar to the way the middle portion of a spoke on a wheel travels slower than the far end of the spoke although the force from the center is equal.
Goals:
Maintain the angle or the length set between the shoulders, wrist and shaft at address. Return to impact the same swing center to ball length.
LEVER SYSTEM:
(The combination of levers formed by the lead arm and club during the back swing and forward swing.)
Primary Influence:
Distance
Effect:
The hinging of the wrists in the back swing and forward swing allowing the player to conserve and release momentum.
Goals:
Hinge the wrist in the back swing so as to reach the point of maximum leverage and maintain the desired wrist hinge until impact.
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2. How to learn
Golfing Skills And The Sequence Of Swing Development
The path from tee to green breaks down into 5 areas of application, or Skill Sets. Based on the PGA Manual of Golf, these skill sets can give you a solid framework for improving your game - whether it's consistency or score.
The Skill Set System: from tee to hole
Applying the laws, principles and fundamentals on the course and getting involved with an professional instructor is where this information will truly pay off. To better transfer the techniques you will learn to the course, we've broken down the path from tee to hole into five areas of application, or skill sets:
- Woods - both from the tee and in the fairway
- Irons - the long and short of traversing the fairway
- Chipping and Pitching - a critical technique for making it onto the green when your wood or irons haven't gotten you there, or for escaping rough and fringe areas
- Bunkers - making the most of play from these hazards
- Putting - the final strokes of your path
Goal is solid contact with shallow divots!
BALL FLIGHT
The followings are examples of ball flights in relations to the selected clubs/equipment used:
The Sequence of Swing Building
Technical Skill:
The seven identifiable parts of the technique windmill are shown in Figure 3 diagram. It is important to realize that each successively higher stage requires the golfer to be competent in each of the preceding stages. For example, working on shot shaping will be futile if reliable solid contact is not being made.
Fundamental Stage - Learn to Hit the ball
Progressive technical skill development for
- Putting
- Chipping
- Pitching / Bunker
- Mini swing
- Full swing
Swing fundamentals - (putt & short Chip)
Introduction of the one lever swing concept for solid impact using putter & chipping with short irons.
Clubs - putter & shorts irons-9,W&S)
2.
Introduction of the two lever swing concept to promote solid impact / solid contact using short to mid irons up to #7iron.
Clubs - (Long chip to short Pitch) (short irons up to 7 Iron).
3.
½ swing to Mini swing
The two lever swing concept to promote solid impact / Solid contact with mid to long irons / fairway woods
4.
Mini swing to full swing
The two lever swing concept to promote solid impact / Solid contact with all clubs
Proficiency Stage - Learn to play the game
- Direction control - max range
- Distance control - min distances
1.
Direction control
- Alignment to a specific target
- Effects of various slopes on the overall result
Distance control
- Know each clubs distance
- Adjustment according to the condition of the lie
- Effects of various slopes on the overall result
Shot shaping, club selection
- Hook high & low
- Slice high & low
- Straight high & low
- Combinations
Execution during competition
- Mapping the golf course (know your distances, know where trouble is)
- Physical preparation
- Mental control
Swing lengths of all follow-throughs will be bigger than their respective back swing's as there is greater momentum generated from the impact point onwards than there is being generated at the start of the back swing.
The MAIN Goal is square & solid contact with shallow divots!
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2. How to learn
Taking lessons
How to get started
Congratulations for taking the first step toward taking up the game of golf.
This page is designed to bring to provide you with "A Golfer's Guide's" view point on the subject of taking Golf lessons. We will also provide you with advice on the easiest way for you to start playing and enjoying, golf.
The surest way to secure a successful learning experience along your journey is to seek tuition from a professional instructor.
The two types of coaching available to you are group and individual lessons.
Group Lessons
A major benefit of participating in a group clinic is you are learning with a group of people of a similar standard to yourself. This offers you the chance of not only forming some new friendships but are the most likely candidates for golf partners for future games of golf.
In my beginners class you will learn the basics of the golf swing, chipping , pitching. putting, some basic rules and golf etiquette.
These classes are often run over a period of consecutive weeks, by the end of which you will to some extent have obtained knowledge on how to achieve, and apply fundamental golf skills both theory and practical and be confident enough to go out on a golf course and enjoy the experience.
Individual Lessons Individual lessons, cover the same topics as that of a beginners clinic but they are covered in greater depth and you will usually see faster results as you have undivided attention from the golf professional for the duration as opposed to several minutes in a group clinic. Beginners need to have their first few lessons spaced close together. Initially weekly intervals are best, as this gives you enough time to practice what you have learned but not enough time to overdo it. As you get better there will be less things going wrong so the frequency of lessons will be further apart. e.g. fortnightly or every two months. Golf is a game where you never stop learning no matter what your standard.One of golf's acronyms, Go On Learning Forever. Even the best players in the world continue to seek advice from their coaches regularly.
A guide to having an effective Golf Lesson (s)
During a Golf Lesson certain preparatory items are essential to assist the learning experience
Some of the items that we recommend you bring to all golf lessons are:
- Note pad and pen / pencil or recording device
- Insect repellant
- Sports drink / or water bottle
- Sun screen / hat / appropriate loose fitting clothing
- Arrive at least 15mins to check in before the lesson starts
- Light stretching, light aerobic exercise to prepare your body for swinging a golf club
- Be prepared to learn how to adapt to the drills which are aimed at fixing faults
- Spend sufficient time understanding the new feel
Listen carefully and be sure that you understand what you are being asked to do. Ask questions! As there are no silly questions,
Be able to understand the movements in question before you attempt to hit any golf balls, as you probably won't have experienced them before, unfortunately the "feel" of movements is unreliable in early stages of development and can therefore could mislead and confuse you.
Good planning at the start of each lesson between you and your instructor will provide you a definitive pathway through each lesson so that you can arrive at the lesson's objective.
Making corrections requires and understanding of cause of your swing pattern problems, from which deliberate actions focusing on one maybe two areas will expedite your corrections that will positively influence the adjustments in your swing pattern.
While your conscience mind is trying to deliberately over ride your previous conditioned response to hitting a golf ball, it is better to reduce the number of balls you hit, as your coordination will suffer initially, and this is likely to cause poorer results. This deliberate attempt to override is due to the fact that you (your brain) is processing new information which it probably will have no reference to, meaning your brain is telling your body to do something it hasn't done before, and likely have no memory recall of this new movement. At this point, as you have no memory or any previous experience of a similar movement to refer to, you will likely experience poor coordination and you won't be developing any until you learn the new movement.
So to maintain motivation and to therefore have enough repartitions to adopt your corrections, we recommend that you carry out your practice using slower movements or smaller swings. This will effectively cause your distance to be reduced for awhile, but fear not, once you become used to the new muscle programming you will actually realize that your previous distance can be achieved with less effort, therefore creating a more efficient swing pattern.
Keep an open mind, but don't take anything on face value, or anything for granted, if your golf pro is a true professional coach he will justify and prove his statements and recommendations by using photos of expert ball strikers, like PGA Tour pros and video and computer analysis of the same to help explain and prove what he is asking you what to do.
After a Golf Lesson
The best thing you can do after a golf lesson is practice your new golf swing without a golf ball for at least ten minutes every day (the more often and longer, the better). What you need to understand is that when you stand over a ball with the intention of hitting it, the body controls the swing, not the conscious mind. Given any opportunity, the body will revert back to what it is most comfortable with, which happens to be your old swing.
The way to teach your body something new is to swing slowly, without a golf ball. Stop frequently at the new position you are trying to learn so that you can show your body where it should be and so that it can develop a feel for that position. Once the new movement is somewhat comfortable, you can put more emphasis on trying to learn the move while actually hitting balls.
When you do hit practice shots, make three to four practice swings for every ball you hit - you're still trying to teach your body what to do. However over time you will be able think less about trying to make the correct movements and function in a more autonomous state.
Every golfer should have a goal to improve for every year they play, but most golfers reach a certain level and never improve beyond that point. Golf is a challenge and that's its allure. Everyone is searching for a way to improve, but most golfers are searching in the wrong places! If you want to get better, find a skilled golf instructor who teaches proper golf swing fundamentals and take a long term approach to improving your game.
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2. How to learn
How to Practice
One of the first keys to improving is practicing properly. "Practice doesn't make perfect," it makes permanent. Only "Perfect practice makes perfect." But if you do it incorrectly, practice also makes permanent.
PRACTICE - The How and Where
What you learn during your golf tuition equates to about half of your improvement. The other half is practice. Without it your rate of improvement will be quite slow. There are four types of places you can practice your golf. Firstly, you can purchase some plastic golf balls and them at home in your back yard. This is quite an effective way of practice especially in the early learning stages where you will be more concerned with training your muscles to repeat certain actions rather than ball flight. Secondly, you can go to a golf range. At a golf range you can purchase a bucket of balls and hit them at your leisure from specially designed artificial grass mats. When you hit balls try to avoid the "machine gun method" of hitting balls. i.e. bang, bang, bang. It is a far better idea to hit the balls slowly, making sure you have several swings between hitting each ball. It is far better for you to hit 50 balls 3 times a week than it is to hit 150 balls in one practice session. One of the best aspects of using a golf range is that you don't have to pick up the balls when you have finished. Thirdly, you can play on a Public golf course and use their practice putting green to improve your putting skills. Finally, if you join a private golf club you can use the practice facilities at that club. However, at most of these clubs you have to use your own practice golf balls and you must share the practice fairway with other golfers. This can be frustrating when picking up your balls at the end of your practice session.
How much should I practice?
One of the most important rules of practice is that it must be regular. Ten minutes every day is far more beneficial than seventy minutes once a week.
Chart Your Game
Even though almost everyone realizes that they should concentrate their practice time on those areas of their game that are their weakest, invariably we wind up spending our time doing what we do best. Here's a simple approach to determining what percentage of your practice time should be devoted to the different elements of your game: keep a chart your game. In other words, after every round write down in a notebook how many times you hit your driver, fairway woods, long, middle and short irons and wedges, and how accurate you were with each club. Also keep track of the number of times you chipped or pitched the ball, hit bunker shots (both long and short), and the number of putts you took, with particular attention to the number of times you three-putted greens, noting whether this was caused by a poor approach putt or by missing a short second putt.
Do this for several rounds and you will see a distinct pattern emerge. You'll not only see clearly what your strengths and weaknesses really are, but also where you take the most strokes-and if you are like the vast majority of golfers, you'll discover that area is in the short game, which also happens to be the area that most people neglect when practicing. As a general rule, at least half of everyone's practice time should be devoted to the short game, whether they are a scratch golfer or a high-handicapper.
Develop a Plan for Practice
Here's where working together with your Instructor can really pay off in lower scores. Once you've completed accurately charting your game, sit down with your Instructor and interpret the results. Your instructor may see trends in the results that aren't immediately apparent to you and this will help you focus your practice on the areas of your game that really need work.
When developing a practice schedule, keep in mind that practice is far more effective when done over relatively short periods of time as opposed to long, grueling hours spent simply pounding ball after ball on the practice tee. A good time to practice is immediately following a lesson, since the instruction you received from your Instructor is fresh in your mind. You not only know what you were taught, but can also feel it as well. Another good time to practice is immediately following a round since this is a time when you've just identified a current problem in your game. Once you (and your Instructor) have fixed the problem to your satisfaction, call it a day.
Planning Effective Practice
ASSESSMENT - Present skill level
SET GOALS:
1.
SHORT TERM - (daily)
2.
MID TERM - (up to 3 months)
3.
LONG TERM - (1 year and more)
ACTIVITIES:
1.
Have a sheet / diary outlining when and what to practice - also include you thoughts and feelings during the practice session
2.
Fix Faults, work on your weakness more than your strengths
3.
Pre - shot routines for Mental preparation
4.
Prepare for Competition / Tournaments
5.
Decide on which drills to work on
6.
Practice the drill long enough to grasp a feel of the swing change required
7.
Set up
8.
Without delay, try and hit the ball with the practice swing feel
How To Practice:
Teach the brain to anchor the feeling that corresponds to the correct movement.
Starting with the rudimentary movements of putting and chipping, so as to establish the correct fundamentals like posture, grip, ball position and swing path.
First confirm the movements are correct, by using:
- The appropriate drills
- Swing aids
- Mirrors
Other Things To Consider:
1.
Keep your practice sheet on the FRIDGE
2.
Time allocation How much time do you have to practice?
3.
PRACTISE REGULARLY - every day / second day
4.
DO PRACTISE IN SETS OF 10-15 REPETITIONS then have a short break
5.
Break early if tired or distracted or emotional (ANGRY?)
6.
EXPECT SOME POOR SHOTS! Expect it.
7.
Have clear purpose for your practice e.g. a particular drill.
8.
ONLY practice what I have shown you. DO NOT include extra thoughts / actions.
9.
Record on your practice sheet how many repetitions of the exercise you performed and bring this sheet along to lesson.
10.
Understand the difference between PRACTISE & PLAY.
Practise:
NO target, shot result is unimportant; take care to do exercise CORRECTLY...
EXPECT some bad shots and you will NOT be disappointed
Play:
YOU now have a target, FEEL comfortable when addressing ball, swing without delay...
You do not have to do everything QUICKLY BUT don't linger over the ball
Do 10 x reps of the drill (you are now in practice mode)
Then break and hit 3 shots in PLAY mode
MOST IMPORTANT
- ANCHOR good shots / ignore (DO NOT get emotional over poor shots)
- YOU ONLY REMEMBER things that you get emotional about (anger, disappointment, frustration etc.) If you get emotional about BAD shots they are the only ones you will remember.
Are you fit enough for golf (Physical Fitness?)
Get Fit for Golf - http://www.golfmed.net/
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION: The twelve physical requirements for golf:
- AEROBIC FUNCTION AND THE GOLFER CHAPTER 1
- MUSCLE FUNCTION AND THE GOLFER CHAPTER 2
- JOINT FUNCTION AND THE GOLFER CHAPTER 3
- POSTURE AND THE GOLFER CHAPTER 4
- THETRUNK, PELVIS, HIP FUNCTION AND THE GOLFER CHAPTER 5
- THE SPINE AND THE GOLFER CHAPTER 6
- THE NECK, SHOULDER GIRDLE, SHOULDERS AND ATHE GOLFER CHAPTER 7
- THE FOREARMS, WRISTS, HANDS AND THE GOLFER. CHAPTER 8
- THE LEGS AND THE GOLFER CHAPTER 9
- THE ANKLES, FEET AND THE GOLFER CHAPTER 10
- BODY TYPES AND THE GOLFER CHAPTER 11
- MUSCLE BALANCE AND MUSCLE IMBALANCE CHAPTER 12
- CONCLUSION
GOOD POSTURE = GOOD MUSCLE BALANCE
The benefits of correct spinal posture and postural muscle balance are:
- Promotes good mobility in the individual.
- Allows even pressure on the spine, therefore preventing abnormal loading on the joints.
- Allows body weight to be transferred over a greater surface area, therefore causing less stress on the spine.
- Promotes a more efficient biomechanical movement through the axis of the spine and will therefore ensure smooth and efficient movement when carrying out functional tasks such as walking, running and jumping.
Whenever a muscle contracts over a joint, an opposing muscle relaxes and extends. The muscle contracting and producing the movement is known as the "Agonist" and the muscle opposing and extending is known as the "Antagonist".
However, if the Agonists are constantly shortened or contracted this causes the Antagonists to be constantly stretched. This can result in the Antagonists being held in a stressed extended position for excessively long periods of time which eventually causes muscle imbalances.
THE PRINCIPALS OF STRETCHING
A stretching program is an essential part of a postural re-education regime:
What are the Benefits of Stretching?
- Stretching prevents muscle strains and tears
- Stretching improves the body circulation which means you will perform more efficiently at school
- Stretching will promote a more relaxed body which will help you to be less tense in certain situations eg during tests and exams
- Stretching will allow you to promote good patterns of movement which are essential when acquiring specific skills eg tennis, football, soccer, netball skills
- Stretching will allow you to prolong your participation in your specific sports and hobbies as we get older
- Stretching will reduce muscle fatigue, which will alleviate the feeling of tiredness nearing the end of a task. eg homework, running, swimming
- To enable you to sit, stand and walk effectively
- To prevent muscle imbalances which can lead to poor posture
- Prevents biomechanical problems
- Relieves the stress placed on your joints, bones etc through bad posture
- Exercises will improve postural tone in specific postural muscle groups to reinforce good overall posture in sitting and standing
- Reinforces not only good posture for school but good posture for life
These stretches have been designed specifically for golf by physiotherapists at the Melbourne Sports Injury Clinic.
- Forearm/Wrist Extension
- Improves forearm coordination
- Prepares the wrists for impact shots
- Reduces tension and stress over short game pressure shots
- Improves wrist release
- Wrist/Flexor Stretch
- Improves forearm coordination
- Prepares the wrists for impact shots
- Reduces tension and stress over short game pressure shots
- Improves wrist release
- Improves position of right arm on back swing
- Trunk Rotation Stretch
- Improves timing in upper body, lower body and trunk
- Improves rotation in back swing and follow through
- Posterior/Shoulder Stretch
- Improves turn and rotation
- Assists to make a full back swing and follow through
- Reduces tension after practicing short game
- Pec Stretch
- Improves shoulder turn
- Reduces tightness after short game
- Improves power through impact
- Trapezium/Neck Stretch
- Maintains head position
- Stabilizes the shoulders when addressing
- Reduces tension when under pressure
- Triceps/Lats Stretch
- Improves extension action of the right arm
- Maintains pendular movement in putting
- Gluteal (Buttock) Stretch
- Helps stabilize the hips
- Provides smooth rotation of the hips
- Hamstring Stretch
- Reduces back stiffness
- Improves excessive pelvic tilt
- Reduces back pain
- Quads/Hips Flexor Stretch
- Improves turn at the hips
- Helps prevent excessive tilt
- Reduces stiffness after excessive short game practice
3. Learn about the "How to do section"
- How to know about golf clubs
- Other necessary Golf Equipment
- What types of games
- Scoring systems; how to score & to use a score card correctly
- Summary of the Basic rules & etiquette
A Golfer's Equipment guide
How many clubs do I need to buy?
The maximum amount of clubs you are allowed to use during a round of golf is fourteen. This sounds like a lot but most of these would be used in a normal round of golf.
For new gofers and those inexperienced players, when choosing the make-up of your golf set we recommend you avoid long irons which have little lofts, like 2 and 3 irons and consider replacing them with lofted metal woods like a 5, 7 or 9 wood, preferably shallow face models. Also an alternative to a full set is a half set. Half sets consist of a wood, usually a 3 wood, 5,7,9 irons & a sand wedge. These are more than enough to get you started and you can always add the fill in clubs to complete your set at a later date. The downside of buying a half set and then buying the fill ins is the overall cost will be slightly more expensive than if you bought the complete set in one hit.
When buying golf clubs (full, half sets or individual clubs) please consider custom fitting the clubs to suit your physical attributes.
What to consider before you buy clubs:
- The Shaft Flex
- Shaft length
- Steel Vs Graphite
- Loft of the club face
- Lie of the club face
- Offset
- Swing weight
Once you have reached a consistent playing standard, you may wish to consider going through a custom fitting session with your local professional club fitter, where you will be able to better understand what type of clubs are better suited for your style of play. And even then, consider your budget and go for value rather than show.
Here are a few points regarding club fitting that we suggest that you consider before buy:
(1) The shaft is the axle of the club, the better the shaft, the better the club. Finding the right shaft takes a bit of trial and error. Most golfers use a shaft that's too stiff.
- If good shots fly low, the shaft is too stiff and the kick point can be too high.
- On the other hand, if the ball regular shoots up quickly, the shaft maybe too flexible and the kick point too low.
Please refer to the above chart for a review of shaft length over the last 30 years
Shaft flex has a major effect on the feel of a golf club and a medium effect on distance, thus is an important determination in choosing clubs. If you do not know your speed swing (mph or km/h), some local golf shops can measure it for you. Otherwise for guidance please refer to the following chart to discover what is best for you.
SWING SPEED CONVERSION CHART
Driver Swing speed
Driver carry distance
Club used from 150y (135m)
Ladies Flex
Less than 60 mph (100 km/h)
Less than 180 yds (163m)
A 3 iron or wood
Senior or A Flex
60-75 mph (100-120 km/h)
180-210 yds (163-190m)
A 4 iron
Regular Flex
75-84 mph (120-135 km/h)
210-240 yds(190-218m)
A 5 or 6 iron
Stiff Flex
84-93 mph (130-150 km/h)
240-260 yds (218-236m)
A 6 or 7 iron
X-Stiff Flex
Over 93 mph (150 km/h)
260+ yds (236m)
A 8 or 9 iron
Rescue clubs / metal-woods: are shallow faced versions of the regular metal wood, the are seen as the biggest game improvement clubs on the market today. These clubs are easy to hit and extremely accurate due to their low center of gravity.
(2) The length of the shaft:
All golfers should use standard length clubs unless he or she is short or tall. Standard length clubs allow players to hit the ball on center a higher percentage of the time, thus increasing distance and accuracy. In recent years, light weight Titanium driver heads and Ultralight graphite shafts have extended driver playing lengths from a standard 43-431/2" to 44-46". This is good news and bad news. The good news is, when you increase length, you will increase distance. The longer the club, the more club head speed generated, thus more distance. The bad news is, the longer the club the more difficult it is to control, thus less accuracy.
To put this into perspective, the following information will be helpful. A driver hit on center at 43" = 227m(250 yds). 43 1/2"= 238m (262 yds). 44" = 245m (270 yds). 44 1/2" = 250m (275 yds). 45" = 250-255m (275-280 yds).
As you can see a significant increase in distance is achieved up to 44". After 44", distance increases only a minimal amount . CONCLUSION - It is not worth sacrificing accuracy for the minimal amount of distance gained past 44". Keep driver playing lengths to 44" or less.
Men's Standard Shaft Lengths
(For Women's Standard Shaft Length deduct 1")
Club
Length with Steel Shafts
Length with Graphite Shafts
Driver
43.5"
44"
3 wood
42.5"
43"
5 wood
41.5"
42"
7 wood
40.5"
41"
9 wood
40.5"
41"
1 iron
39.5"
40"
2 iron
39"
39.5"
3 iron
38.5"
39"
4 iron
38"
38.5"
5 iron
37.5"
38"
6 iron
37"
37.5"
7 iron
36.5"
37"
8 iron
36"
36.5"
9 iron
35.5"
36"
PW
35.5"
36"
GW
35.25"
35.75"
SW
35.25"
35.75"
LW
35.25"
35.75"
In case you are not 'standard', determining the proper length for your clubs is very easy and free of guess-work by taking a wrist to floor measurement. You need a helper. In street shoes, stand at attention with your feet about a foot apart. Stand straight, shoulders up, but your arms relaxed by your side. Have your helper measure (RH players) from your left wrist at the crease where it meets your hand, to the floor. LH players measure from right wrist. Shorter players will measure in the low 30"'s. Average height players, mid 30"'s. Tall players 35" & up. The values in the table then show you (in inches) how much longer or shorter than the standard length your clubs should be.
YOUR HEIGHT IN CENTIMETERS
Inches
4' 10" - 5' 0"
5' 0" - 5' 2"
5' 2" - 5' 4"
5' 4" - 5' 7"
5' 7" - 6' 0"
6' 0" - 6' 2"
6' 2" - 6' 4"
6' 4" - 6' 7"
6' 7" - 6' 9"
Inches
Centimeter
147 - 153
152 - 158
158 - 163
163 - 170
170 - 183
183 - 188
188 - 193
193 - 200
200 - 205
D
I
S
T
A
N
C
E
O
F
T
H
E
W
R
I
S
T
T
O
F
L
O
O
R
101.6
40"
+2.25"
+2.25"
+2.25"
+2"
+2"
+2"
+1.75"
+1.75"
+1.75"
100.33
39.5"
+2"
+2"
+2"
+1.75"
+1.75"
+1.75"
+1.5"
+1.5"
+1.5"
99.06
39"
+2"
+2"
+2"
+1.75"
+1.75"
+1.75"
+1.5"
+1.5"
+1.5"
97.8
38.5"
+1.5"
+1.5"
+1.5"
+1.5"
+1.5"
+1.5"
+1"
+1"
+1"
96.52
38"
+1.5"
+1.5"
+1.5"
+1"
+1"
+1"
+1"
+1"
+1"
95.25
37.5"
+1"
+1"
+1"
+1"
+1"
+1"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.5"
93.98
37"
+1"
+1"
+1"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.5"
92.71
36.5"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.25"
+0.25"
+0.25"
91.44
36"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.5"
+0.25"
+0.25"
+0.25"
+0.25"
+0.25"
+0.25"
90.17
35.5"
+0.25"
+0.25"
+0.25"
+0.25"
+0.25"
+0.25"
S
S
S
88.90
35"
+0.25"
+0.25"
+0.25"
S
S
S
S
S
S
87.63
34.5"
S
S
S
S
S
S
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.25"
86.36
34"
S
S
S
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.25"
85.09
33.5"
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.5"
83.82
33"
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.25"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.5"
82.55
32.5"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-0.75"
81.28
32"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.5"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-0.75"
80.00
31.5"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-1"
-1"
-1"
78.74
31"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-0.75"
-1"
-1"
-1"
-1"
-1"
-1"
77.47
30.5"
-1"
-1"
-1"
-1"
-1"
-1"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.25"
76.20
30"
-1"
-1"
-1"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.25"
74.93
29.5"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.5"
-1.5"
-1.5"
73.66
29"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.25"
-1.5"
-1.5"
-1.5"
-1.5"
-1.5"
-1.5"
(3) STEEL SHAFTS vs. GRAPHITE SHAFTS - These are general recommendations:
A. Men (Age 13-55)
Steel shafted irons, graphite shafted woods.
B. Men (Age 55+)
Graphite shafted irons and woods. Note the switch to graphite irons. As we get older the speed swing slows, lighter weight graphite shafts may recover some of the lost speed, thus regaining some lost distance. A switch to a softer flex shaft (senior, A-flex) is also recommended.
C. Ladies (All Ages)
Graphite shafted irons and woods. The lighter weight graphite shafts are much easier for ladies to swing than heavier steel shafts. A little more costly, worth the investment.
(4) Loft is the backward slant on the head of golf clubs that is designed to drive the ball in the air.
Lofts have gradually changed over the past 30 years (look at the chart), take a look and see how todays lofts compare to those of around 30 years ago.
1970
Current (Ideal)
Type
Loft
Length
Type
Loft
Length
Driver
11 degrees
43.5 inches
Driver
9 degrees
44 inches
3-wood
15 degrees
42 inches
3-wood
14 degrees
43 inches
2-iron
20 degrees
38.5 inches
2-iron
19 degrees
39.5 inches
3-iron
24 degrees
38 inches
3-iron
22 degrees
39 inches
4-iron
28 degrees
37.5 inches
4-iron
25 degrees
38.5 inches
5-iron
32 degrees
37 inches
5-iron
28 degrees
38 inches
6-iron
36 degrees
36.5 inches
6-iron
31 degrees
37.5 inches
7-iron
40 degrees
36 inches
7-iron
34 degrees
37 inches
8-iron
44 degrees
35.5 inches
8-iron
37 degrees
36.5 inches
9-iron
48 degrees
35 inches
9-iron
42 degrees
36 inches
PW
52 degrees
35 inches
PW
48 degrees
35.5 inches
SW
56 degrees
35 inches
SW
54 degrees
35.5 inches
LW
LW
60 degrees
35 inches
For experienced players when making a decision on which wedges to use, trying to keep the loft gap between the pitching, sand and lob fairly even (e.g. 48, 54 and 60 degrees).
Otherwise you'll have trouble controlling distance on approach shots.
Loft angle has a major effect on distance off the tee, so its important to choose the correct loft for your driving club. The slower speed swingers (ladies, seniors and some regular flex players) need higher llofted driving clubs. Increased loft will allow a better launch angle, higher trajectory, greater carry, thus more distance!
This may come as a surprise to those players who have always thought less loft, means more distance.
Faster speed swingers do require less loft to obtain maximum distance. The following is a general guide when being used to identify the correct loft for you driving club.
RECOMMENDED LOFTS FOR DRIVING CLUBS:
Player shaft flex
Swing speed
Degrees of loft
Ladies and Senior:
< 60 mph (100 km/h)
13-15 degrees
Senior:
60-75 mph (100-120 km/h)
13 degrees
Regular:
75-84 mph (120-135 km/h)
12 degrees
Stiff:
84-93 mph (130-150 km/h)
10-11 degrees
Stiff of X-stiff:
> 93 mph (150 km/h)
10 or less degrees
NOTE: For those players who naturally hit the ball higher, you may wish to consider using a driver with lless loft.
(5) Lie angle must be correct or the ball can go offline even with a sound swing. That's because at impact the face plane is forced on a different angle to the leading edge. The more loft a club has, the more out of alignment the face plane becomes from the leading edge.
For example: A nine-iron that is four degrees out in lie angle goes 6.5 metres (7.2y) offline at 90 metres (100y), whereas an 11 degree driver that is also four degrees out only goes 4.5 metres (5y) offline at 225 metres (248y).
The most accurate method is to test every club in the bag; a more practical method is to measure the 3, 5, 7 and 9-irons.
How to check your clubs' lie angles:
- Put a piece of masking tape length-wise across the sole of an iron.
- Hit some shots until you can see where the point of sole impact is on the masking tape.
- Measure that mark from the centre of the scoring lines.
Too Upright: For every 64 mm the centre of the mark is toward the heel, the lie angle is 1 degree too upright.
(6) Swing-weight is one of the most misunderstood terms in golf. In fact, equipment experts even differ on an interpretation. Many golfers think swing-weight is the total weight of the club.
It's not. Swing-weight is a number that describes the weight distribution of a golf club. It's about the balance of a club.
If you stuck your finger inside the shaft at a point just below the grip (say 14"), the more weight that's on the other side, the more the swing-weight number increases
- Lengthening the club, adding weight to the head and using a heavy shaft all increase swing weight.
- Shortening the club, adding weight to the grip end and using a lighter shaft decrease swing weight.
This would increase the swing-weight of your clubs by three points - every four grams of weight reduction in the grip end causes one added swing-weight point.
(7) Offset is the distance between the shaft's leading edge and the leading edge of the clubface.
In other words, if the leading edge of the club lines up exactly with the leading edge of the clubface, there is no offset.
Offset is a common design feature today. It helps hit the ball higher in the irons and can also be effective in woods to counteract a slice.
DISTANCE - What makes a golf ball go far?
From the point of view of the golf club please consider the following points to influence how far a player can hit a golf ball.
- The type of golf ball: Most driving range balls have a low composition of about 70, therefore your regular name brand ball which has a compression of 90 to 100, will tend to fly further.
- Club face loft: for those with a faster swing speed; less loft will generally equate to greater relative distance. On the other hand for those who tend to swing slower; more loft will generally equate to more distance.
- Length of club: conceptually speaking, the longer the shaft in the club the more potential distance is possible. However the longer the shaft usually means a loss of control.
- Swing Speed: The more club-head speed a golfer can generate at impact, the more distance. Why do you think Tiger Woods hits it as far as he does? He generates 200 km/h of club head speed with his driver. Most Pros are not close to that. Because #d has the biggest effect on distance, golfers should understand club makers and manufacturers are somewhat limited in trying to aid golfers to achieve more distance. We cannot change the physics of the game.
3. Learn about the "How to do section"
Other necessary Golf Equipment
Below is a summary of the main features of golf equipment.
Golf clubs
A player usually carries several clubs during the game (but no more than fourteen, the limit defined by the rules). There are three major types of clubs, known as woods, irons, and putters. Wedges are irons used to play shorter shots. Woods are played for long shots from the tee or fairway, and occasionally rough, while irons are for precision shots from fairways as well as from the rough. A new type of wood known as a "hybrid" combines the straight-hitting characteristics of irons with the easy-to-hit-in-the-air characteristics of higher-lofted woods. A "hybrid" is often used for long shots from difficult rough. Hybrids are also used by players who have a difficult time getting the ball airborne with long irons. Wedges are played from difficult ground such as sand or the rough and for approach shots to the green. Putters are mostly played on the green, but can also be useful when playing from bunkers or for some approach shots. The putter has minimal loft, forcing the ball to stay on the putting surface while struck.
Golf Clubs - The Rules of Golf permit a player to carry a maximum of 14 clubs. The standard make up of a set of golf clubs is 3 woods, 10 irons and a putter. However some advanced players only carry two woods in favor of carrying an extra lofted iron. The key components of golf clubs are the club head, shaft and grip. The club head for "woods" is made out of either wood or (somewhat paradoxically) steel, titanium or graphite. Club heads for irons and putters are usually made out of stainless steel, titanium or graphite. Shafts are made out of steel or graphite and come in a range of flexes, depending on the player's golf ability and physical strength. Grips are commonly made out of either rubber (sometimes with cord running through them) or less frequently, leather.
"Irons" are generally styled in such a way that the club head weight is either peripherally distributed (set around the outside edges of the back of the "iron" club head) or placed evenly along the bottom of the "iron" club head. The latter weight distribution is common on "iron" club heads known as "blades", which are often used by advanced players. Generally, "peripherally weighted irons" have a bigger "sweet spot" or hitting area on the club head, are consequently more forgiving on the miss hit shot and thus well suited to the beginner or average player. Clubs are built to specific lengths and weights to individually suit each player. There are literally hundreds of different styles of golf club sets. It is recommended that prior to purchasing a set of clubs a player consults a qualified golf professional or experienced golf salesman and if possible tries a number of different clubs. The price of a set of golf clubs ranges from around $400 to $2500 depending upon the style, construction material and design qualities of the clubs.
Golf Balls
Golf ball with a tough rubber core (with 1 Euro coin for size reference)
The minimum allowed diameter of a golf ball is 42.67mm and its mass may not exceed 45.93g. Modern golf balls have a two-, three-, or four-layer design constructed from various synthetic materials. The surface usually has a pattern of 300-400 dimples designed to improve the ball's aerodynamics. The method of construction and materials used greatly affect the ball's playing characteristics such as distance, trajectory, spin and feel. Harder materials, such as Surlyn, usually result in the ball's traveling longer distances, while softer covers, such as Balata, tend to generate higher spin, more "feel" and greater stopping potential. Golf balls are separated into three groups depending on their construction: two-, three-, or four-piece covers. Generally four-piece golf balls tend to be the most expensive, though price is no assurance of quality. As of 2006 there are golf balls that utilize RFID technology, which allow golfers to locate errant shots easily using a handheld homing device. The first type of golf ball was the feathery, made out of leather and feathers.
Golf Shafts
Golf shafts are used between the grip and the club head. The profile of the golf shaft is circlular in shape and is usually thicker at the grip end than at the club head end. Any strong and light material may be used to make the golf shaft. Almost all shafts today are made of either graphite or tempered steel, although other materials either have been used (the first shafts were made from hickory wood) or have been tried (like titanium and aluminum). The tapering of the shaft is important to some players - the shaft can be smoothly tapered or it can be tapered in steps.
The rules of golf allow the shaft of the putter to be bent in some specific ways, but all the other club shafts must be straight.
Other Equipment
Tees
Golf tees resemble nails with a small cup on the head and are usually made of wood or plastic. A tee is an object (wooden or plastic) that is pushed into the ground to rest a ball on top of for an easier shot; however, this is only allowed for the first stroke (tee shot or drive) of each hole (There is also a variation of the tee which resembles the regular form, with the point cut off. This is used when teeing off with irons).
Ball markers
When on the green, the ball may be picked up to be cleaned or if it is in the way of an opponent's putting line; its position must then be marked using a ball marker (usually a flat, round piece of plastic or a coin).
Golf carts
Sometimes transport is by special golf carts. Clubs and other equipment are carried in golf bags. Pull Carts' or Golf Buggies are trolley-like items designed to carry such a bag, allowing the golfer to drag his or her bag around the course, rather than carrying it on their back.
Golf gloves
Golfers also often wear gloves that help grip the club and prevent blistering. Normally only one glove is worn, and it is on the left hand for a right handed player, or the right hand for a left-handed player.
Golf shoes
Golfers wear special shoes with exchangeable spikes (or small plastic claws termed soft spikes) attached to the soles, designed to increase grip on greens or in general wet conditions.
Pitchfork
A divot repair tool (or pitchfork) is used to repair a divot (depression in the green where a ball has hit the ground). Some tees contain such a tool at the end, for pure convenience when on the green. To repair a divot, one pushes the tool next to the mark and pushes gently inwards from all sides, loosening the compacted turf to allow rapid re-growth of grass, and then flattens the mark with the smooth flat bottom of the putter to smooth the putting surface.
ONLINE CLASSROOM
3. Learn about the "How to do section"
What Types Of Games?
Competitions
Participation in golf competitions is important for players of all abilities in order to: -
- Maximize their enjoyment of the game
- Assess their golf ability at any given point in time
- Develop their skills in a variety of conditions
- Compare their golf ability against other players
- Stroke Play: (Rule book page 28)
- Match Play: (Rule book page 26)
- Stableford: (Rule book page 97-99)
- Par: (Rule book page 97-99)
- Four Ball Best Ball: (Rule book page 92)
- Threesomes and Foursomes (including Mixed Foursomes) (Rulebook page 91)
- Three ball, best ball and four ball match play. (Rulebook page 92-94)
Try some Variations of your Game
The two basic forms of playing golf are match play (Rulebook page 26 - 27), and stroke play, (Rulebook page 28 - 29)
Single Stroke play (Medal)
Single Stroke or Medal play is the simplest of all variations. In this game every player (or team) counts the number of shots taken for the whole round or tournament to produce the total score. All strokes to be counted and players are unable to pick up the ball without penalty. The score for the 18 holes is tallied and the handicap is deducted from that total. The lowest score wins, both for gross and nett.
Match play
Holes are either won, halved or lost, based on the nett score of each hole. The handicap is applied using the match play index on the scorecard. The two competitor's handicaps are compared and the difference e.g. 14 - 6 = 8, is the number of strokes given away. The number of holes where one stroke is allocated is then decided, according to the match index.
In match play, two players (or two teams) play every hole as a separate contest against each other. The party with the lower score wins that hole, or if the scores of both players or teams are equal the hole is "halved" (drawn). The game is won by the party that wins more holes than the other. In the case that one team or player has taken a lead that cannot be overcome in the number of holes remaining to be played, the match is deemed to be won by the party in the lead, and the remainder of the holes is not played. For example, if one party already has a lead of six holes, and only five holes remain to be played on the course, the match is over. At any given point, if the lead is equal to the number of holes remaining, the match is said to be "dormie", and is continued until the leader increases the lead by one hole, thereby winning the match, or until the match ends in a tie. When the game is tied after the predetermined number of holes have been played, it may be continued until one side takes a one-hole lead, and thereupon immediately wins by one hole.
It's important to remember in match play that the player furthermost from the hole always plays first. This is especially true on the putting green. You must not putt out if your opponent's ball is still "live" and furthest away from the cup.
You may pick your ball up if your opponent is heard to "give you the putt". The scorecard is generally not used.
Stableford Golf
(Points system - pick up ball when obvious you cannot score on a hole)
1931 Dr Stableford of Liverpool devised a points scoring game as a variation away from Par & Stroke play.
A variant of stroke play is Stableford scoring, where a number of points (two for the target score) are given for each hole, and the fewer shots taken, the more points obtained, so the aim is to have as many points as possible.
Has become so enduringly popular, that in 1968 it got official blessing from The R&A and was incorporated into the rules of golf. The major advantages of Stableford are that it keeps play moving briskly and graduates the field.
STABLEFORD SCORING SYSTEM -
Object when playing Stableford is to score 2 points or more per hole:
More than one over par
= 0 points
One over par
= 1 point
Level par
= 2 points
1 under par
= 3 points
2 under par
= 4 points
3 under par
= 5 points
(The points can be calculated are determined based on the net score)
Each player scores stableford points on a hole based on their handicap and the stroke index for the hole. During the round, each player and marker has to calculate the points allocated to each score on a hole based on the stroke index. A player on a handicap of 12 receives a shot on the 12 hardest holes, while a player on a 27 handicap receives 2 shots on 9 holes and 1 shot on 9 holes, based on the course index.
You mark both the stroke score and stableford points on the card, and the highest point score wins. Only the stableford points are tallied.
Par (Bogey)
On every hole a player either has a plus "+", a half "0" or a loss "-".
Handicaps are calculated depending on the rating of each hole. eg. a player off 12 is expected to bogey the 12 hardest holes on the course (ratings of each hole are listed on the card).
If the 12-handicapper makes par on any of the 12 hardest holes they earn a " +". A bogey earns a "0" and a double-bogey or worse gets a "-".
Add up the plus and minus signs to finish so many up, down or "square".
Winner: The player who finishes the most up.
(Records how many shots up or down you had in relation to your handicap. Instead of points as in Stableford, the golfer records holes won, lost and halved. Golfer picks up ball when obvious they cannot score on a hole.)
Four-Ball Best-Ball Stroke
Played the same as the single version but you have a partner. The best nett score on each hole is used and only the gross and the best nett need to be scored on each hole.
Once a player cannot beat his partner's nett score, then the ball should be picked up. If both players record the same nett score, then the player who first holed-out is marked on the card as scoring.
Both player's names and handicaps must be on the card. The card need only to be signed by one marker and one player from each pair. The lowest point score wins.
Foursomes
This a team game played in pairs with only one ball in play. Players alternate between shots after teeing off. The tee shots are also taken alternately so that one player tees off on all the even numbered holes and the other player tees off on all the odd numbered holes.
In mixed competitions ladies tee off from their own tees. It is played and recorded as if a single stroke event. The handicaps of both players are added and half the total is the team handicap for the day. The order of play is not changed if a player incurs a penalty.
Other forms that are variation of the basic forms are listed below
- Ambrose
- Four-Ball Best-Ball Stableford
- Four-Ball Aggregate Stableford
- Four-Ball Best-Ball Versus Par
- American Foursomes
- Canadian Foursomes
- Chapman Foursomes
- Four-Ball Handicap Matchplay
- Single Versus Par (VSS)
- Flag Competitions
- Bisque Bogey
The player whose ball was chosen has the first shot and then each remaining player drops their ball within one club length of the spot, but no nearer the hole, and plays their next shot in the order originally decided by the captain. This procedure continues irrespective of whether the ball is on the fairway, in the rough or in a hazard, until the play reaches the green.
On the green, the best position is again decided upon and marked. Each player the places their ball within a card length of this spot and has one putt in turn. They must not putt out, but each ball position must again be marked and the procedure repeated until a ball is holed, or a score cannot be bettered.
The card is marked as for a single stroke round and the lowest score wins the competition. It is important to note that every player must have their handicap marked on the card. Only one score is kept for the entire team, regardless of the number of members. Handicaps are calculated by adding those of all players and dividing the total by: 4 in a two-ball event, 6 in a three-ball event and 8 in a four-ball event.
The net score is determined by adding together the handicap of every team member and dividing by one-eighth.
At the end of the round the score is totalled and the handicap is deducted to establish the nett score. This is calculated by subtracting the exact resulting handicap so all those fractions count.
Four-Ball Best-Ball Stableford
The team version of a single stableford. The scoring is the same as the single event but only one player can score for each team on a hole. The score is the best result in the team. When the two partners score the same result then the score is marked for the player who holes out first. If a player cannot beat the partner's score the ball is picked up to speed up play.
The stableford points only are tallied and the highest score wins. Only one player and one marker from each team need sign the card.
Four-Ball Aggregate Stableford
A team version of single stableford where all scores count on every hole. Each player must record a score on each hole and the scores of both players are added together for the total points each hole. The result for the round is then calculated and recording by adding the total point scores for each hole. The points scoring system is the same for a single stableford.
The highest point score wins the competition.
Four-Ball Best-Ball Versus Par
Played under the same rules as the single version but this team game allows both partners to contribute according to their handicaps and score on a hole.
Only the best result on each hole is counted and if the two players have the same result only the score of the player who holes out first needs to be recorded.
The highest score wins the competition.
Four-Ball Handicap Matchplay
The rules are the same as with single matchplay, but the handicap differences are based on the lowest handicapped player in the two pairs.
The lowest marker goes back to scratch. Then the other players have their handicaps lowered by subtracting the handicap of the low marker. For example, four players with the following handicaps would be treated like this.
A: 15 handicap
B: 13 handicap
C: 3 handicap
D: 22 handicap
C is the low marker and would have a new handicap of Zero.
The other new matchplay handicaps would then be:
A: 15 - 3 = 12
B: 13 - 3 = 10
D: 22 - 3 = 19
The side which wins a hole is then the side with the best nett score on a hole after comparing the adjusted matchplay handicaps to the matchplay index on the holes (see Matchplay)
American Foursomes
Similar to the Canadian foursomes on half combined handicap. after the tee shot, players play their partner's ball, then select one ball to play alternately until holed.
Canadian Foursomes
Played on half combined handicaps. The players both tee off every hole and then select the best positioned ball to play alternately from there until the ball is holed out.
Chapman Foursomes
Similar to American Foursomes but the second shots on each hole are played with their own ball and then the selection made. Again, half combined handicaps are used.
Single Versus Par (VSS)
Scores are recorded only as plus (+), Minus (-) or halved (0). The easiest way to understand it is to compare it with stableford scoring
STABLEFORD POINTS
VERSUS PAR RESULT
3 points or greater
Plus (+)
2 points
0
Less than 2 points
Minus(-)
The scores are recorded by marking down the player's stroke score with the appropriate symbol (+/ -/ 0). If a player is unable to score a Plus (+) or Half (0) then the player should pick up and mark the hole as Minus (-). The final score is calculated by comparing the pluses and minuses as they negate each other. Thus a player with 6 pluses and 3 minuses would score 3 for the round.
The highest score wins the competition.
Flag Competitions
A player or side is allocated a set number of shots based on the total of their handicap and par for the course. For example, a player on a handicap of 14 would have 85 shots if the par for the course is 71.
The object of the game is to play every shot until you run out of shots. The winner is the player who gets the furthest around the course or furthest past the first tee if they have shots left after 18 holes. A flag is generally used as a marker to designate the finishing point.
Bisque Bogey
In this game, the competitor is allowed to choose on the tee before the start of each hole whether or not they will allocate any shots to the hole. The competitor must mark on the card how many shots are to be used before starting the hole. Once the handicap is used up, no more shots can be allocated. Scoring is based on Single Versus Par.
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3. Learn about the "How to do section"
Scoring Systems; How To Score & To Use A Score Card Correctly
Each attempt at striking a ball (whether or not the ball is hit) counts as a shot until the ball is holed.
In every form of play, the goal is to play as few strokes per round as possible. Scores for each hole can be described as follows:
Term on a scoreboard
Specific term
Definition
-4
Condor (or double-albatross)[1][2]
four strokes under par
-3
Albatross (or double-eagle)
three strokes under par
-2
Eagle (or double-birdie)
two strokes under par
-1
Birdie
one stroke under par
0
Par
strokes equal to par
+1
Bogey
one stroke more than par
+2
Double bogey
two strokes over par
+3
Triple bogey
three strokes over par
+4
Quadruple bogey
four strokes over par
How to use a scorecard
Fill out sections of card such as name, handicap, date and home club before you swap cards. Player A and player B then swap cards on the first tee.
At the end of your round ensure that your card is signed by both yourself and your marker and also that your score has been written in the correct place before you hand it in.
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3. Learn about the "How to do section"
Summary Of The Basic Rules & Etiquette
Every golfer must abide by the game's code of behaviour.
Golf's code of behaviour is referred to as "golf etiquette". It ensures safety is maintained, the course is looked after and that golf is played in a fun and friendly environment.
There are EIGHT BASIC RULES of etiquette.
Some relate to play on a golf course, but all others should be observed when conducting Go-Go sessions on the school oval; for instance, all divots should be repaired.
1: Safety
No player shall play until the group in front is out of range. However to speed up play, (and by mutual consent) the shortest hitter can go first even if this means hitting out of turn! Check that you and others are safe before swinging a club or playing a shot. The 'cry of fore' is not only good etiquette, it may save a life.
2: Consideration
Play without delay and be mindful of maintaining your pace within the group and of maintaining your groups place within the field. Consider the enjoyment of others on the course.
3: Priority
If your group falls a hole behind, signal the players behind you to play through. During play the one furthest away from the hole goes first; this applies on the putting green as well.
4: Bunker Care
Always smooth out a bunker after playing a shot from it. Enter and leave the bunker from the lowest point, unless otherwise marked.
5: Replace and Repair Turf
Replace all divots and repair any damage you make to the course.
6: Green Care
Repair all pitch marks and take care not to damage the green with your shoes, putter or the flagstick.
7: Golf Car and Buggy Use
Notices regulating golf cars and buggies should be strictly observed.
8: Practice Swings
Avoid causing damage to the course when taking a practice swing.
"Golf Etiquette also includes wearing the right clothes, and good sportsmanship."
* Etiquette that relates to other specific areas of the Golf Course is explained as follows*
ON THE TEE
- Declare your golf ball: brand and number. (Avoids penalty)
- Golfers must respect 'right of silence' whilst another tees off
- Mark your card whilst waiting your turn to drive
- Lowest handicap player tees off on the first hole and then others follow in order of handicap. (i.e. ... 4, 6, 13, 22)
- After the first hole has been played, the honour goes to the player who has scored lowest on the previous hole
- Beware of the whisper..... It travels further than you think!!
- Never stand in the view of golfer driving off
- Tee-off only within the designated tee markers
- It is good etiquette to comment appropriately following another player's fine drive. It is considered poor form' not to comment!!
- Resist temptation to burst into laughter following another players duffed shot!!!!
- Always be ready to commence teeing up procedure when it's your turn
- Don't take an excessive number practice swings
- Don't rush but don't dawdle. Be mindful of maintaining your pace within the group and of maintaining your groups place within the field
- If someone in your group is playing selfishly too slow, it is the responsibility of the lowest marker to encourage this golfer to speed up. Be sensitive of your tone but be factual!
- There is much to discuss during a 4-5 hour round of golf! After all players have driven off and are striding down fairway, start talking. HOWEVER YOU MUST RESIST ANY TEMPTATION TO WANDER FROM BALL TO BALL AND RE-TELL THE SAME STORY
- After the drive, the player most distant from the green is obliged to play first and the nearest to the green plays last
- On the fairway, golfers must always replace divots and scuff marks associated with their shot. It you see unrepaired divots left by other players. Replace these as well! (Sand/grass)
- When approaching the green from the fairway, try to avoid dragging your buggy coming too close to the fringe or the apron.(Destroys fine chipping area.)
- Always keep motorised carts away from greens
- No player shall play until the group in front is out of range. However, to speed up play (and by mutual consent) the shortest hitter can go first even if this means hitting out of turn!
- The cry of 'fore' is not only good etiquette, it may save a life
- Avoid anger/temper tantrums on the course
- Always be prepared to call through faster groups; regardless of whether you feel your group's pace is at fault or not.
- Remove the flag stick with due care, to avoid damage to the hole
- At the completion of the hole, replace the flag stick with the same care. (First finished is responsible for replacing the pin)
- Beware of casting your shadow across another player's line to the hole either when attending the flag or waiting.
- On windy days, grab the top of the flag to stop it flapping, whilst another is putting
- Hold the flag at arms length, to avoid footprints around the cup
- Never, Never, Never walk or temporarily tread on another golfers putting line
- Always repair the pitch-mark or pug-mark that you created by your lofted approach to the green!
- Be on the look out to repair the lazy golfers pitch marks. (Provided it won't cause undue slow play.)
- Avoid dragging your buggy across the greens.... most courses ban this activity!
- When putting, the player closest to the hole is responsible for flag stick duties. (Remove it or attend it)
- Usually leave your clubs to the side of the green nearest the next tee. (This way, the group behind won't be unduly delayed when your group has finished putting out)
- Just like the 'fairway order, the golfer with the furtherest away ball, putts first; the one with the closest putts last.
- Remember the bishop and due sense of reverence. Conduct self as if in a cathedral!
- Always rake the sand after you play a bunker shot. (It gives little joy to play a shot from another golfer's footprint)
- Don't cake the sand up towards the bank of the bunker! (This activity causes too many plugged lies) Rake it smoothly and evenly.
- Leave the rake in an easily accessible location within the bunker. (And parallel to hole)
- In a green-side bunker, to speed up play and by mutual agreement, the player in the bunker can play 'OUT OF TURN'
- Always leave the bunker in better shape than you found it!
- Enter & leave the bunker at its lowest point, or as otherwise marked!
Golf is a game in which a ball is struck with a club from a prepared area, know as the "teeing ground", across fairway and rough to a second prepared area, which has a hole in it, known as the "putting green". The object of the game is to complete, what is known as a hole, by playing a ball from the teeing ground into the hole on the putting green in the fewest possible number of strokes. A "round of golf" consists of playing 18 such holes.
*The rules of golf are designed to give every player a fair chance*
When competing against others - and the course - the rules cover every situation a golfer can get into. Once new golfers progress to playing on a course, they should always carry a rulebook and learn the common rules. When seeking relief by using a rule, a player, must announce their intentions to the marker, prior to applying the rule. (One-shot penalty for failure to carry this out.)
There are basically two forms of play, one which is decided by holes won and lost (match play) and the other which is decided by the total number of strokes taken to complete the round (stroke play).
Before commencing your round:
- Player must confirm correct handicap (if in a competition).
- Scorecards are filled out and swapped. (Each player need's one of the other players to be a marker.)
- Read the Local Rules, they are usually on the notice board in the locker rooms, as well as on back of the scorecard.
- Put an identification mark on your ball. Many golfers play the same brand of ball and if you can't identify your ball, it's lost.
- Count your clubs. You are allowed a maximum of 14 clubs.
There are three important principles to remember when playing golf:
- Play the course as you find it
- Play the Ball as it lies.
- And if you can't do either, do what's fair
To do what's fair you need to know the Rules. The following is a summary of the Rules of Golf, simplified where possible.
Penalty Strokes
At times players may find themselves in a situation, which will result in a penalty being applied.
Most common are:
Water Hazard
Check the Local Rules on the score card to establish whether the sea, lake, river etc. is a 'water hazard' or a 'lateral water hazard'.
- Ball in water hazard:
Play the ball as it lies or, under penalty of one stroke, (a) drop any distance behind the water hazard keeping a straight line between the hole, the point where the ball crossed the margin of the water hazard and the spot on which the ball is dropped or (b) play again from where you hit the ball into the hazard - Ball in lateral water hazard:
In addition to the options for a ball in a water hazard (see above), under penalty of one stroke, you may drop within two club-lengths of (a) the point where the ball crossed the margin of the hazard or (b) a point on the opposite side of the hazard equidistant from the hole.
Tee off between and not in front of the tee-markers. You may tee off up to two club-lengths behind the front line of the tee-markers
Teeing off outside this area - In match play there is no penalty but your opponent may ask you to replay your stroke; in stroke play you incur a two-stroke penalty and must then play from within the proper area.
Playing the Ball
Play the ball as it lies. Don't improve your lie, the area of your intended swing or your line of play by moving, bending or breaking anything fixed or growing except in fairly taking your stance or making your swing. Don't press anything down or build a stance.
If your ball lies in a bunker or a water hazard don't touch the ground in the bunker, or the ground or water in the water hazard, before your downswing.
The ball must be fairly struck, not pushed or spooned.
Playing a wrong ball (except in a hazard) - In match play you lose the hole; in stroke play you incur a two-stroke penalty and you must then play the correct ball. In stroke play, if the error is not rectified before teeing off on the next hole, player is disqualified.
Casual Water, Ground Under Repair etc.
If your ball is in casual water, ground under repair or a hole or cast made by a burrowing animal (e.g. a rabbit), you may drop without penalty within one club-length of the nearest point of relief not nearer the hole.
On the Putting GreenYou may repair ball marks and old hole plugs on the line of your putt but not any other damage, including spike marks. You may mark, lift and clean your ball on the putting green. Always replace it on the exact spot.
Don't test the putting surface by scraping it or rolling a ball over it.
A Ball that is played from a putting green that strikes flagstick - In match play you lose the hole; in stroke play you incur a two-stroke penalty.
Ball at Rest Moved
If your ball is at rest and it is moved by you, your partner or your caddie, except as permitted by the Rules, or if it moves after you have addressed it, add a penalty stroke and replace your ball.
If your ball is at rest and is moved by someone else or another ball, replace it without penalty to you.
Ball in Motion Deflected or Stopped
Ball struck by you is deflected or stopped by you, your partner or your caddie - In match play you lose the hole; in stroke play you incur a two-stroke penalty and the ball is played as it lies. Ball struck by you is deflected or stopped by someone else - Play your ball as it lies without penalty, except (a) in match play, if an opponent or his caddie deflects the ball you have an option to replay the stroke or (b) in stroke play, if the ball is deflected after a stroke from on the putting green, you must replay.
Ball struck by you is deflected or stopped by another ball at rest - No penalty and the ball is played as it lies except in stroke play you incur a two-stroke penalty if your ball and the other ball were on the putting green before you played.
Lifting, Dropping and Placing the Ball
If a ball to be lifted is to be replaced, its position must be marked. If a ball is to be dropped or placed in any other position (e.g. taking relief from GUR, etc.) it is recommended that the ball's original position be marked.
When dropping, stand erect, hold the ball at shoulder height and arm's length and drop it. If a dropped ball strikes you or your partner, caddie or equipment, it must be re-dropped without penalty.
There are eight instances where a dropped ball rolls to such a position that it must be re-dropped - see Rule 20-2c
Ball Interfering with or Assisting Play
You may lift your ball if it might assist any other player. You may have any ball lifted if it might interfere with your play or assist any other player.
Loose Impediments
You may move a loose impediment unless it and your ball are in a hazard. However, if you have touched a loose impediment within one club-length of your ball and your ball moves, the ball must be replaced and (unless your ball was on the putting green) you incur a penalty stroke.
Obstructions
(Check the Local Rules on the score card for guidance on immovable obstructions (e.g. surfaced roads and paths etc).)
Movable obstructions (e.g. rakes, tin cans etc.) anywhere on the course may be moved. If the ball moves it must be replaced without penalty.
If an immovable obstruction (e.g. a water fountain) interferes with your stance or swing, you may drop the ball within one club-length of the nearest point of relief not nearer the hole. There is no relief for intervention on your line of play unless your ball and the obstruction are on the putting green.
Ball Lost or Out of Bounds
(Check the Local Rules on the score card to identify the boundaries of the course.)
If your ball is lost outside a water hazard or out of bounds you must play another ball from the spot where the last shot was played under penalty of one stroke i.e. stroke and distance. You are allowed 5 minutes to search for a ball, after which if it is not found or identified it is lost.
If, after playing a shot, you think your ball may be lost outside a water hazard or out of bounds you may play a 'provisional ball'. You must state that it is a provisional ball and play it before you go forward to search for the original ball. If the original ball is lost or out of bounds you must continue with the provisional ball under penalty of one stroke. If the original ball is not lost or out of bounds, you must continue play of the hole with it and the provisional ball must be abandoned.
Ball Unplayable
If you believe your ball is unplayable outside a water hazard (and you are the sole judge), you may under penalty of one stroke;
- drop within two club-lengths of where the ball lies not nearer the hole
- drop any distance behind the point where the ball lay keeping a straight line between the hole, the point where the ball lay and the spot on which the ball is dropped, or
- replay the shot.
Playing the wrong ball:
2 shot penalty, except in a hazard where there is no penalty. In stroke play, if error is not rectified before teeing off on the next hole, player is disqualified.
Conclusion: A good score may be spoiled, or a match lost, due to a penalty incurred through ignorance or confusion concerning the Rules. A sound knowledge of the above summary should aid the golfer in tackling a "Rule problem". Nevertheless, the complete Rules of Golf as approved by the Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St. Andrews and the United States Golf Association, should be consulted where any doubt arises.
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4. Drills and practice tips on how to improve
Full swing: Tee ground & fairway
- Posturing for position - Body angles
- Gripping solutions
- Taking aim
- Ball Position
- Swing radius
- Turn
- Weight transfer
- Rotation - A turn for the better
- Follow through - the power hinge
A good swing starts from the beginning - that is, the set-up. Trying to get your body angle and posture correct will influence all the information you have received about gripping the club, ball position and the position of your head, body and arms.
This is an easy aspect of the swing to get right because there is only one right way to do it and it is easy to practice without clubs or balls. Consequently, you can even do it at home.
A good body angle is almost the exact image of what you should look like at impact.
Establishing a correct body angle at address - one that imitates your impact position - make s the whole process of returning the club back to impact simpler. For example, if you have a poor body angle set-up, your backswing and delivery into the ball will be affected and you will find it very difficult to get into a solid impact position, delivering power with accuracy.
But if you start in a good position, you just have to train your body to get back to this position on impact. It is a simple theory and it can be simple in practice through just that - practice.
The ideal body angle at address is simple to achieve. Move through these steps - using a full length mirror - to get your address body angle just right:
- Put your hands in the air, now outstretch them to the level with your shoulders and imagine your arms are the wings of a plane
- Lean a little forward (one or two cm) towards the target and tilt your upper body (left hip and shoulder higher than right side). I.e. your right "wing" (left for left-handers) will be about 15 to 20 centimetre lower and your straight left arm will now be about 15 to 20 centimetres higher than its original position.
- Maintain this posture and bend forward from your pelvic joint so that your weight is over the balls of your feet. Remember keep your head up and the lower back straight but not rigid.
- Flex your knees slightly and let arms hang down below your shoulder joints, where you can take your grip. Note at this point your body is in such a position that your head is already behind the position of the ball and don't have to make any excessive movements in your backswing and you will have created enough room under your body to allow your arms to work or swing freely around.
Great players are able to achieve a similar position at impact to the one they had at address. This is because they do not change their body angle throughout the swing. Keeping the same body angle during the swing makes their task a whole lot easier.
Work through the steps to get your body angle right before taking a club then make a series of quarter or waist high swings. The idea here is to swing the club back and forth with your arms - with good rhythm - whilst maintaining the same body angle you started with.
Work on this regularly or at least once a week and achieving and maintaining a good body angle for every shot will become second nature
(NB: don't believe for one second that your body is not supposed to move during this golf swing. It definitely is - but your body angle does not change).
Swing Radius (Courtesy of Gary Edwin)
Maintaining your body angle during the swing creates the ideal swing radius to achieve power and accuracy. As I said before, address simulates impact - you move away from address with the backswing and back to it.
If your body angle changes, your swing radius changes, so your ability to hit the ball consistently out of the sweet spot is greatly effected. For example, if your body angle straightens you may have problems getting the ball in the air or you may hit a lot of fat shots. This is because your swing radius has changed from its original position.
Here is a good drill to create the feeling of a good swing radius, incorporated with a good body angle: place a tyre on the ground in front of you, with the edge of the tyre positioned where your ball would normally sit in your stance; i.e.: in line with your left heel or just inside that. Take a quarter backswing and swing down into impact against the tyre. From this position, push the tyre toward the target until the club head can no longer touch the tyre because it is starting to move up into the follow-through.
Turn (Courtesy of Gary Edwin)
(Body rotation/pivot)
The spine angle refers to the angle of rotation of the upper body.
The correct spine angle is critical in golf, when the pivot angle is correct and maintained through out the swing, the club goes on a semi-circular arc away, back and through.
The most difficult thing about body turn is getting the direction of the turn right. Much has been written about 90o shoulder turn, back to the target, shoulder under the chin, wind up like a spring, coil up like you are throwing a ball etc. But basically, turn is really only related to the set-up and set-up angles.
You need to get your turn to work without your set-up angles changing. I like my students to think of the turn as a feeling of the arms pulling the body around, with the shoulders responding to the direction that the arms are going.
This is in contrast to the popular old one-piece takeaway teaching where everything - shoulders, hips, arms, shaft the lot - moves together.
The one piece creates extra motion all the time and changes posture. This creates a big problem among players who try to get their shoulders to move with the club in the first movement.
Their shoulders then turn too much at the start, causing them to stop before the arms and hands have reached the end of the backswing.
This is when you will see many of these players tilt or lift their right side up to try and get the club back to the top of the backswing.
If you look at the world's best players - they don't actually have a lot of turn at the start of their backswings. They resist the turn quite a long way and just keep their set-up shape, with their arms actually pulling their shoulders into the turn.
Try this: establish the set-up angle and allow the arms to swing in a quarter motion back and through (which makes the shoulders move but not rotate). By keeping the same hip and shoulder angle, when you swing your arms a little further, a little higher, it will coil your shoulders up more - but it won't change their angle.
By maintaining the same body angle and swing radius, your arms can drop freely on the down swing without your body angle being forced to change to hit the ball.
Golfers who over rotate their shoulders on the backswing have an initial downward movement that rotates their shoulders out, forcing the club out across the target line. So they are forced to make downswing compensations to avoid cutting across the ball and hitting a big slice. The major compensation is to try to hit from inside the line and roll over release with the hands.
It's easier to maintain your shoulder plane when you allow your arms to move from the quarter swing up to the three quarter swing, changing your shoulder angle a little but not so you turn and change the angle of your hips and shoulders.
(NB: less is more, more is less. Less turn (ie not overturning) equates to more power and control whereas more than you need lessens your quality of contact.)
Weight Transfer (Courtesy of Gary Edwin)
Turn and weight transfer create leverage and power when properly applied in the golf swing. However, the direction of these two major motions is the important factor, not the amount.
Weight transfer is really only relevant to the shape of your body throughout the swing. If you slide out of your original posture (there it is again - the set up) your weight will move in the wrong direction and will compensate in the wrong direction in setting up the down swing. That's why people sway, slide, tilt, come over the top, come off the ball, swing too flat, swing too upright, get too steep in the down swing etc... these all originate when the body posture changes during the back swing.
You don't want your body to change just because your arms are swinging. I try to get all my students - from beginners through to Tour Pros likes of Peter Lonard, Paul Gow, Rod Pampling and Peter Senior - to swing their arms faster and keep their body angles to generate speed. In a lot of other golf swings there is more speed of the body and the arms are slower.
Have a look at the guys I have mentioned. They don't appear to go backwards, they don't appear to go forwards and they don't appear to go around too much. It is only because they keep their body angle in check the entire time. This creates consistency. Consistency creates quality of contact - and that means power and accuracy.
Weight transfer can't be described in terms of "60% weight on the back foot and 40% weight on the front foot". The way I feel when I stand, I probably feel like I've got more weight on my left foot (front) - but that's only in my hip area. My upper body weight is on the right side, so it is a balanced equation.
But if I was to say I had 60% weight on my front foot, people would say it was crazy. Your weight has to be more on your back foot.
Additionally, golfers who always stay over the ball... when they're told to get behind the ball they try to do this by moving behind the ball during the back swing. My players are behind the ball all the time. They never have to move behind the ball there because their shape is set behind the ball and every facet of the swing works around that.
A good drill that teaches you the feeling of swinging back without changing your body shape and to deliver the club head back to the "address" position is the Hill Drill.
Essentially, this is a chip shot. But the hill drill encourages you not to change your body angle during the swing.
Set up with a slight lean into a hill. Using a 7 iron, hit some balls with small swings, concentrating on keeping your body angle from your set-up position and hit into the hill. If you try to lift the ball into the air with a wrong turn, your body angle will change and your quality of contact with the ball will suffer.
Note how my body angle has not changed, yet there has still been movement of my upper body - namely the shoulders and arms. This is a "feel" drill where you should start to get the feeling of what maintaining your body angle is all about.
Gripping solutions
Deciding what's best depends on the size of your hands. For men and women of average strength and co-ordination there are two choices - the overlap or interlock. However, the physically weak, beginners, children and those suffering arthritis should experiment with the 10-finger grip.
- The overlap - position the little finger of your trail hand comfortably over the top of the index finger of your target hand.
- The interlock - the little finger of the trail hand links between the first two fingers of the target hand before closing around.
- Target side hand - place the grip in the knuckles of the fingers, then close the hand and rotate the hand clockwise over the club until you can see 2 to 3 knuckles and position your thumb slightly to the side. As a preference position the top hand so that the pad of your hand does not protrude over the end of the grip or you will lose a degree of control over the club.
- Trail side hand - rest the club into the knuckles and then close your hand around the club in such a manner that the right thumb can be positioned over the left thumb. In other words set the left hand thumb in line with the life line of the right hand.
Taking aim
There are two parts to aiming - the clubface and your body.
- Aiming the clubface - During the setup or addressing procedure, please consider the alignment of the club face, as it will to a certain extent influence the initial trajectory of the ball flight. So other than those occasions when you are deliberately attempting hooks or slices, align the club face so that the leading (bottom) edge of the club is set perpendicular to the target line.
- Aiming the body - the fundamental premise here is set your body parallel to the target line. For example visualise standing on a train track. The ball and club-head are positioned on the far rail. Your body (shoulders, hips, knees, toecaps and eyes) are on the near rail. At first you may feel the shoulders are off line (aiming left for the right-handers, right for left-handers), but stick with it.
- Lay a club on the ground, pointing from the ball to the target.
- Next lay another along your toe line and parallel to the first club. No matter what your eyes see, you are lined up square.
The general rule is that there is no ideal position due to the variety of swing patterns. However I recommend the following:
- All irons - I recommend the ball to be in line with the sternum
- Metal woods - move the ball more forward towards the target side foot, to a point in line with the left heel
The distance varies according to the length of the club. Positioning needs to be precise because it determines your balance point - which must be the balls of the feet. Put simply, establishing the right balance points and a distance from the ball allows a golfer to make contact without searching for the ball.
Try this training drill as a general rule of thumb:
- Stand up right and grip any golf club so that it is positioned perpendicular to your upper body (torso) and aligned to waist line belly button.
- Next while keeping your legs straight tilt your spine so that the target side joints are slightly higher than those on the right side.
- Now maintaining the condition in step 1 and proceed to tilt forward from your pelvic joint until the club head reaches the ground, at which point you have located the ball position for the club in your hands.
- Finally flex (slight bend) your knees and prepare for the swing.
4. Drills and practice tips on how to improve
Putting
An introduction to the art of Putting
What is Putting?
The purpose of putting is to role the ball into the hole on the3 putting green in as few as shots as possible.
The art or skill of Putting is the ability of a golfer to possess the following three factors.
- The golfer must determine the effects of the greens undulations on the ball, and therefore the direction hat the ball must travel alone to get to the hole.
- The golfer must determine how hard the ball must be hit to impart to it the speed necessary for it to cover the required distance.
- The golfer, having determined the line and speed required, must now execute the putting stroke in a manner consistent with his intentions. Basically this means that the golfer must position the face of the putter at right angles to the intended line throughout the short period of impact and moving at a speed that will result in the ball being able to cover the desired distance.
The fact is that Putting is a part of the game in which anyone can excel; it takes no great strength, just sufficient knowledge on how to gain the technical skills necessary for a consistent putting stroke.
Putting Theory & Routine
- Assume that all putts start as a straight line and set up accordingly
- Draw a line across the diameter of the ball, and then you can draw a perpendicular one as well
- Choose a spot on the grass that is on the chosen line within 6 inches of the ball Align the ball so the line points to this spot
- Set up your clubface square to the line on the ball. Then make your stance in accordance to the square clubface
- Set up your body in compliance with the other 5 set up requirements
- Eyes positioned either directly over the ball line or slightly inside the intended line, (depends on the eye dominance, this will be discussed in a later study document).
- Eye line, shoulder line and elbow line parallel, (square) place feet in comfortable position
- Putter shaft in line with forearms (Side view)
- Body shape like chipping, weight favoring target side
- Shaft leaning towards the target, handle ahead of the club head
- Maintain arm and body shape throughout the swing, (keep wrists stable)
- 2 or 3 short practice swings. With emphasis on the follow through being longer than the back swing
- Concentrate on hitting the ball with the same feel as the practice swing.
- Putting plane; if the putter swings along the shaft plane angle which is determined at the start, then the club head will form a small in to in path (on the heal line)
1. Straight line putt
- String
- Place tee in the green to indicate the break point. This is where the initial force of the putt starts to abate, and the gravity force caused by the slope starts to have a greater act on the ball.
- To help the golfer to position their eyes over the ball
- To help control the putter face to ensure the putter face is at right angles to the target
- To help align the shoulders to ensure that they are square to the target line
- To help the golfers understand the "in to in" swing path
Conversely, the dominant eye is not blocked by the bridge of the nose for the cross-dextrals and thus, they gain a putting advantage when their eyes are positioned directly over the ball. While researchers only investigate golf-putting, these findings also have implications to ball striking.
Individuals who are pure-dextral may benefit from an open stance. With this type of stance, their dominant eye has a less obstructed view of the target. Thus, pure-dextrals would probably gain a motor performance advantage when taught to swing from an open stance. Most importantly, these findings suggest the assessment of a student's eye dominance is vital for individualizing instruction appropriately.
Besides the data from the researchers, there are general tendencies that golfers display depending on where they align their eyes relative to the "ball to target line".
People who align their eyes outside the ball will tend to aim left, because they look back at the hole. And this tends to close the face.
Depending on the eye dominance, people who get their eyes inside the ball will tend to aim right because they are looking at the hole and tend to align their eyes Depending on the eye dominance, people who get their eyes inside the ball will tend to aim right because they are looking at the hole and tend to align their eyes differently. The line of your eyes should be both positioned on the ball direction line. If the golfer twists their head one way or another they will be encouraged to swing the putter out-to-in or in-to-out. So the correct eye line is very important.
String / Chalk line is used for:
Purpose:
- To teach the golfer the correct clubface alignment and swing path.
- Helps the golfer to learn how to position their eyes over the ball.
- Measure the ability of the golfer to hit along a straight line.
The problem is not how the eyes see but how the brain perceives what the eyes see. As a result, to be successful in putting it is very important to train the eyes and brain to see the actual line to the target.
Bad putters are generally suffering from the illusion that they are lining up to the hole when in fact they are not.
Square face applicator
Purpose:
- Measure the ability of the golfer to hit along a straight line.
- Measure the ability of the golfer to set up with a square club face.
The objective of the exercise is to determine the golfers skill in setting the clubface square to the hole.
Other applications are to set the applicator in a fixed position and proceed to hit a number of putts from the top of it using the directional line as a guide. So it is advisable to take care when fixing the applicator so it aims correctly to the heart of the hole.
Introduction of activity.
- Using the face applicator measure the ability of the golfer to set up the club face square at address.
- From a position of about 2 to 3 m from the hole on a straight line, ask the customer to make their regular putting set up, then without actually hitting the ball ask them the indicate to you when they firmly believe that to them their putter face is aiming directly to the center of the hole.
- Place face applicator against the face of the putter, then ask the customer to step back behind the line to personally witness the result of where the applicator is aiming.
- Repeat this exercise 2 or 3 times to see if what the golfer tends to do.
- aims left
- aims right
- aims inside the hole
- aims center
- For those who aim outside the hole, but can regularly hole putts, the conclusions are that there are swing corrections during the swing.
- For those who aim inside the hole, their success's are determined by their judgment of speed, in other words if the force applied to the ball equals the exact distance then the ball will lip-in, if not they will experience a lot of lip-outs.
- For those who aim dead center, but miss a lot of short putts, then they have mechanical problems that cause the face angle to change during the swing.
- For those who aim dead center, and record a high degree of success, would seem to possess ideal putting skills.
- Pace the distance
- Look from behind to determine the line and choice a spot 6 inches in front of the ball
- Place the logo in line with determined initial direction
- Square the putter up to the line
- Adjust your stance to suit the putter face
- 2 or 3 practice swings to assimilate the correct stroke for the distance
- hit the ball with practice swing feel
Irrespective of the length of any putt, it is important to understand that it is NOT a physically demanding skill as opposed to other swings that we use when playing golf, BUT it is a very mentally demanding activity especially when you consider that the value of an extra putt that is required when you miss from a short distance has the same value as a 300 metre drive, and that is they are both equally "1" shot.
Practice program:
Types of putts that a golfer will experience on the course basically comprise of 3 ranges of distances, namely:
- Short (up to 2 meters)
- Mid (from 2 to 5 meters)
- Long (5 to 10 meters)
- Extra long (>10 meters)
The short putt is a critical part of your overall score however most golfers generally practice in poor conditions and effectively practice missing, This of course means that golfers will lack the necessary confidence when they go out on to the course.
Ideally, positive visualization will have a desirable effect when on the golf course, so succeeding in practice (i.e. seeing the ball go in to the hole) will help instill confidence to be successful for short putts when on the golf course.
Drills for improving short putts:
- Place a coin / marker in four positions around the hole NSEW starting from 2 feet from the hole.
- Putt 5 balls from each spot making sure to keep the marker as it is, so as to look at it after your putter head has hit the ball. This will help learn how to keep the body still during the stroke and reduce the anxiety of the mind about the outcome.
- When you are successful in holing all 20 putts from 2 feet extend your distance away from the hole to 3 feet and repeat the exercise. Do the same from 4 feet, 5 feet and 6 feet.
The idea is simply an overload exercise. When you succeed on the putting green daily your nervous system becomes more attuned to holing these putts. Then when you are faced with similar putts on the course you are more confident in holing these putts.
Sports Psychologists tell us that whenever you are standing over a putt and you are confident in holing the putt it is simply your memory taking over, meaning the brain has found a similar experience (a putt of similar length) in the past and is applying this experience.
Similarly when you stand over a putt and are saying that you have no hope in holing the putt, your memory unfortunately has gone to a putt where you did not make and is using this to give you negative feelings.
Definition of Mid putts: (from 2 to 5 meters)
These are the length of putts most likely where most birdie chances will come from and because the average golfer is so attuned to making Par (i.e. 2 putts), they do not put themselves under enough pressure to make the putt, saying that
"It's not that important if I miss as I am still going to make Par anyway".
Realistically though this is the range where you make birdies and eagles and where you also save par when on the more difficult holes.
Things to consider for this range are:
- The line accounts for 70%, meaning the ball must be on line for it to go into the hole.
- Speed accounts for 30%; a greater amount of putts will be holed, if the correct speed in calculated. To correctly gauge this, it would mean that the ball would go 12 inches past the hole if it doesn't go in.
- Once again place a marker in a NSEW pattern around the hole starting from 7 feet and extending to 15 feet.
- Putt 5 balls from marker thereby experiencing all possible slopes, uphill, downhill, and 2 side hill conditions.
- Aim to hole 10 out 20, when successful extends outwards in 1-foot increments.
By practicing mid range putting you will condition yourself for what you will encounter on the golf course.
- I need to make this putt for birdie
- I need to make this putt for par
- I need to make this putt for the best score in my life
IT IS A MATTER OF CONDITIONING!
Definition of Long putts: (5 to 10 meters)
(Things to consider)
- Speed accounts for 70 % Tests in USA have proved that when a long putt is made it is more due to the putt traveling at the correct speed than being hit on the correct line.
- Line accounts for 30 %. The ball must be on the correct line for it to go into the hole.
- Drills should be varied from day to day to stimulate different length and type of putts you would encounter on the course. It is also important to vary the drills so you do not become bored.
- Choose a different long putting drill per day of practicing.
- Start with 5 balls from a position then at intervals putt from 15 feet, 20 feet, 25 feet, and 30 feet.
- The objective is to practice hitting the 5 balls from each interval into a 1-metre semi circle behind the hole. If at any time you miss a putt, you need to start again from the 15 feet position.
Drills for improving Extra Long putts:
- Designate the target to be an area within a 1 metre of radius around the hole.
- Hit 5 balls from various positions starting at 35 feet, 40 feet, 45 feet, 50 feet, and 55 feet from the hole.
- The objective is to putt all balls into the circle around the hole, as it is unreasonable to expect to whole long range putts on a regular basis. It is more appropriate that you aim for 2 putts.
- If you miss a putt, you need to start again. This exercise will help stimulate the pressure you would experience on the golf course.
Distance control putting exercise: Leap frog drill:
Place two markers about 3 metes apart, from any given distance hit 5 balls between the two markers. This may sound simple but there is one more condition and that is that the second ball must go past the third, the forth past the third, and the fifth past the forth and on top of that the fifth must finish before the farthest marker. This exercise is totally speed related, there is no target and the point is to develop a feel for putts of differing lengths.
Upon success from a shorter distance extend the distance from the hitting point up to the first marker in increments of 1 metre.
9 and 18 hole putting competitions
Putt around the putting green and record your total putts for 9 and 18 hole games.
4 x 9 hole competitions
- The first 9 the distance of the first putt is 10m and the target score = 18 (even with the par)
- The 2nd 9 the distance of the first putt is 7m and the target score = 16(2 under par)
- 3rd 9, the distance of the first putt is 4m and the target score = 15 (3 under par)
- 4th 9, the distance of the first putt is 2m and the target score = 14 (4 under par)
Same as 9 and 18 hole putting competitions with a twist, the difference is that the golfer is to hit 2 balls from each spot and play their next shot from worst position out of the 2 balls. For example to get a hole on one you must hole out with both balls, if you hole out with one but miss with the other you have to play from the worst result.
Putting skills test
1m 9 balls around the hole from 1 m. repeat twice,
2m 9 balls around the hole from 2 m, repeat twice
10m 9 balls uphill 9 balls downhill the balls must finish in a 1m-semi circle behind the hole
2-5m at various distances around the hole (NSEW)
5-10m at various distances around the hole (NSEW)
The following chart is an example of how to arrange your time management for putting practice
Daily practice: 1 hour
- 15 mins: technique
- 15 mins: short
- 15 mins mid
- 15 mins long
Component
Set up
Teaches
Putting mirror
* putting mirror with middle line aimed at the line of putt.
* place ball on centre dot, eyes bisecting middle line and shoulders parallel with bottom line.
* eyes over the ball
* putter face square at address
* shoulders square
Definition
Drill
Objective
Short putting
* up to 5 feet
- Place the coin or marker in all four directions 2 ft. from the hole N, S, E, W
- Putt 5 balls from each spot
- You must hole 5 balls from each direction
If you miss, start again.
Mid range putting
same as short putts except balls positioned randomly between 5 and 15 feet in n,e,s,w directions.
* hole 10 of 20 putts, when achieved, increase objective to 11, 12,13 etc.
Long range putting
* vary drills daily to ensure all different putts are encountered
- between 15-30 feet
- using a putter, measure and mark with tees a semi circle behind the hole. Semi circle radius is the length of the putter behind the hole.
- Start with 5 balls and position the m at intervals of 15, 20, 25, 30,and 35 feet from the hole
Mid range putting
same as short putts except balls positioned randomly between 5 and 15 feet in n,e,s,w directions.
* hole 10 of 20 putts, when achieved, increase objective to 11, 12,13 etc.
Long range putting
* helps teach the art of lagging the first putt
Greater than 30 feet- drill 1
- Using a putter, measure and mark with tees a circle behind the hole. Circle radius is the length of the putter
- Start with 5 balls and position them at intervals of 35, 40, 45, 50, 55 feet from the hole
*If you missed, start again.
Long range putting
- Practicing speed
- No target to hit to
- Place 2 tees 3 yards apart
- Start 15 feet from first tee
* If successful, move out 1 yard
ONLINE CLASSROOM
4. Drills and practice tips on how to improve
Chipping
Square stance will have the effect of using the true loft of the club. So on the occasions when you need to hit the ball higher you simply increase the loft by either using a more lofted club or by opening up the club face, however when you do this the club will aim to the right of the target so you will have to open up your stance (aim left of the target for right handers). In doing this the face will again be aiming at the target as well as effectively having more loft.
Learn to control distance is the objective.!!!!!!
Club selection
The main fault with the average player is that they use the lob and sand wedge for all shots irrespective of the distance.
Chipping the ball the back of the green with less loft is more reliable, therefore get the ball onto the green as soon as possible. Landing the ball on the first part of the green then running up to the hole is easier than flying all the way to the hole, the reasoning is that the smaller the swing the less chance of miss hitting
Technique
- Narrow stance, weight forward hands forward will promote a downward swing path at impact
- Grip down
- Set up in impact position because the time taken to swing doesn't allow for extra body movements that you would use in swings for bigger distances. So setting up in impact position as there is no time to adjust the body to get into the best impact position if you start in any other way
- Placing the ball into the back of the stance opens the club face, so opening the stance will effectively square up the face to the target again
- The longer the distance, the longer the back swing and follow through will be required for controlled acceleration through impact. Chipping swing up to parallel condition
To move weight the weight onto the back foot, trying to lift the ball into the air (scooping)
Practice
Practice has two parts, technique and play. So when you want to work on your technique the target is irrelevant. Likewise when you work on playing (Target practice) do not think about technique.
- Place up to 10 clubs on the ground perpendicular to the target line about 2m apart starting from the edge of the green
- Then try and hit consecutively into the space between the clubs on the ground Learning where to land the ball is what counts
Chipping Drills
The goal is to play to 9/18 holes in a score of at 1 under the card (17 for 9 holes/ 35 for 18 holes )
It will depend on how many holes there are on the chipping green.
- Start from the easiest position, which is on the greens edge, once you obtain the goal gradually move further away from the flag up to 15 meters still on relatively flat ground
- Then move to uphill and down hill slopes
- Keep a record of your results so as to keep an eye on your ongoing progress
- You can compete against others so as to create a real feeling of the pressure you experience on the golf course. This will help you get used to the real situation
4. Drills and practice tips on how to improve
Pitching
For the full swing when you want to adjust the distance you wish to hit the ball you simply change clubs to suit.
Pitching however is a partial swing, where the aim for this type of shot is more towards precision of distance and accuracy control. For the adjustment of distance the simple rule is have 3 different lengths of swing, couple with 3 different lofted clubs, like PW / SW / Lob. Using this fashion you will have 9 different distances to choice from when judging your approaches to the green. 9 choices will be sufficient to satisfy almost all pitching conditions. A pitching swing can be used with clubs up to a 5 iron.
Variations in Pitch shots
- Pitch & Run - low trajectory (using less lofted clubs). Is best used when hitting from under trees, or when the flag is positioned at the back of the green, or when there is no hazards in the front of the green.
- Basic Pitch - Medium high trajectory. Is for situations where the green is protected by hazards in the front.
- Lob pitch - High trajectory. Is for situations like the basic pitch, but the flag is positioned at the front portion of the green, or when the green's surface is firm to hard.
- Hands at hip height
- Hands at chest height
- Hands at head height
Technique:
A shot from outside 20 meters and until a length whereby a swing length less than ¾ length of normal is used.
- Set up similar to chipping with the following - weight forward, smaller width of stance, stance slightly open, and ball positioned towards the center of the swing
- The length of the swing can be best described by the clock face principle. For example if your hands position during the back swing involves a 9 o'clock back swing then a 3 o'clock follow through is required to balance the swing length
- The pitching action due to is increased length will see a natural cocking of the wrists occurring
- Pitch & Run - low trajectory (using less lofted clubs). Is best used when hitting from under trees, or when the flag is positioned at the back of the green, or when there is no hazards in the front of the green
- Basic Pitch - Medium high trajectory. Is for situations where the green is protected by hazards in the front
- Lob pitch - High trajectory. Is for situations like the basic pitch, but the flag is positioned at the front portion of the green, or when the green's surface is firm to hard
4. Drills and practice tips on how to improve
Bunker play
Definition:
A bunker is defined as a hazard, grass covered ground bordering or within a bunker is not part of the bunker. A ball is in a bunker when it lies in or any part of it touches the bunker, as such according to the rules of golf a player may not ground his/her club.
Understanding how a sand wedge works is very important to your success in playing a bunker shot. You must understand that you are using the bottom of the club which is called the bounce. If you look at the bottom of the club the trailing edge is lower than the leading edge. When the club strikes the sand behind the ball the trailing edge hits first and bounces the leading edge under and forward propelling the ball out of the bunker. This is the only shot in golf that you are not trying to hit the ball in the percussion point (sweet spot) of the face. You should not allow the club face to close during the execution of this shot. You are trying to maintain the true loft of the wedge.
In golf's earliest history the sand iron had a sole of about 3mm thick, therefore to avoid digging too deep into the sand the golfer had to open the face considerably to the extent that the back of the club acted as a kind of bounce to prevent the club getting stuck into the sand.
However in order to cope with those olden type of sand irons the players of that era learnt that to swing more steeper into the ball provided the best outcome. Therefore the "V" shape swing, described as early wrist cock, pick the club head up and swing the club head into impact zone more directly down became the fashionable way to play the bunker shot, as opposed to the regular fairway swing path which produces a far more shallower angle of attack into the impact zone.
Reasons for this occurrence:
- Sole was 3mm thick
- Steeper angle of attack, proved to be more reliable than regular fairway swing which is a more shallow swing path
- Bigger swing required to create more club speed necessary to cope with the increased loft and force required to cope the large amount of sand that will be taken with the ball so the ball will get out of the bunker
So i believe that only recently due to the influence of successful Tour pros has the "U" shape swing pattern started to became accepted as an alternative and more popular way to get out of bunkers, as opposed to the "V" shape swing pattern
Is there an easier way to get out of bunkers????
Using the chipping technique from a bunker and is very difficult and is not widely taught, these days there are two styles of swing patterns being adopted in the golfing world.
For the purpose of simplicity I will call these two swing patterns "U" shape and "V" shape
First of all let me outline the fundamental aspects of both these styles;
The "V" shape style is the more tradition and well known, but is very unique and complicated, as it varies from the regular swing pattern. The outline of this swing style is;
- Open stance & open club face
- Early wrist cock to increase the loft of the club face
- Bigger swing to compensate for greater loft of the club face. (The larger the swing, the greater the chance of your particular swing faults occurring)
- The larger the swing the greater the force being impacted into the sand
- Steeper swing path into the ball, resulting in a larger amount of sand being taken by the violently explosive impact. This coupled with the greater force from a larger swing could result in an increased possibility of injury
The acute angle or steep path of the downward swing, will produce amongst other things a very violent hit into the sand (ouch), and if you don't practice this technique a lot and if the ball position isn't appropriate then the consequences will be very inconsistent results, like hitting the ball first and going over the green, or taking too much sand, and therefore staying in the bunker.
This style is complex and requires a lot of skill to master, however there are some situations where this technique is profoundly useful. They are when you are in very deep bunkers, or when the flag is positioned quite close to the front edge of the bunker, or when the green is sloping away from you and you don't want the ball to roll to far away from the hole.
However don't try it useless you are confident of success, after all there are many ways to skin a cat. (Proverb)
Next is The "U" shape style; this style is best described as being more similar to the regular swing pattern used more commonly when playing from the Tees & fairways.
The outline of this swing style is;
- Set up in impact position, with square to slightly open stance
- Swing the arms and club as you would from a regular fairway style
- Shallow angle of attack
- Shallow divot, therefore smaller swing
- Smaller swing, then less likelihood of errors occurring, as well as less a degree of force impacting into the sand, which means that there is less likelihood of injuries
Among other things adopting this swing path will see the club swinging into the impact position from a shallower path. Your club head will simply scrape the top portion of the sand's surface on which the ball is sitting, as a result you won't have to take so much sand and the divot will appear to be longer, therefore giving you more room to allow for your ball position.
As far technique for the "U" shape swing pattern, the stance & posture is similar to a pitching swing with a wider stance, for those who are not aware of this type of swing, firstly make your stance at least the width of your hips, with at least 60% of your body weight on your front leg, next screw your feet into the sand to avoid slipping during the swing.
Also it is very important to remember that the shape of the posture should resemble that of a normal impact position, which should see the spine tilted away from the target, and your left hip slightly higher than your right (for right handers).
Checking your set up shape / posture is best done in front of a mirror and on a daily basis.
Lastly stabilize your stance by settling your feet into the sand, so as to prevent unnecessary foot slides during the swing, and as your body is now slightly lower to the ball, it is advisable to grip down the club 2/3 inches to compensate.
The point to remember here is to not overlook the fact that the sand iron's club head is designed in such a way that there is already plenty of loft so that even with your regular fairway swing pattern and a square stance will be more than sufficient for you to get the ball out of most bunkers.
If however you happen to find yourself in a very deep bunker, or the flag is positioned very closely to the lip of the bunker, or even when the green is sloping away from you, in either case you will be impelled to try and get the ball to fly higher so that it will stop quickly, in these cases it will be necessary to increase the loft of the sand iron by opening it up, but remember to adjust your stance by opening it so that you don't incur any directional problems by having the clubface aiming too far to the right of the target, (opposite for left handers)
What this effectively does is increase the loft of the sand iron so the ball can initially fly in a higher trajectory, there fore making it easier to get the ball out of even the deepest bunker. However the consequence is that you will require a bigger or stronger swing to generate enough club head speed to compensate for the increased loft, so the risk of making a mistake becomes greater, but the rewards for a good result are also greater.
It is important to remember to also swing in the direction of where your body is pointing, this will ensure the most reliable and consistent results.
Your responsibility as a golfer is to decide your MOST APPROPRIATE strategy.
In closing:
The V shape swing path is the more traditional method, and in some cases there is a misconception that you must adopt this V shape/ style swing in all bunker situations, however the design of the sand iron is such that even the regular style of posture and swing path will be more than sufficient to get the ball out of most bunkers.
So don't be tied down by tradition; try the U shape swing path method and then you can decide.
Golf is complex enough with one style of swing let alone having to learn a separate technique (adopt different style) just for getting out of a bunker.
Apart from making your golf game less complicated, adopting only one swing style will save you a lot of time and hard earned money on practicing.
Common fundamental technical factors for playing from bunkers:
- Grip lower than usual to compensate for your feet being buried into the sand
- Stance shoulder width apart
- Weight distribution will favour the target side leg, however take care when hitting from slopes in bunkers, use the same method as you would when hitting from the fairway
- Upper body aligned open relative to the intended target line
- Feet dug into the sand, especially the back foot, which should have the inside dug lower into the sand
- Club face can be set square for shallow bunkers, however for deep bunkers you can set the clubface and stance open
- The swing involves primarily the arms swinging the club and pulling the upper body, the lower body remains very still and passive throughout the backswing, downswing and follow through
- The swing required to properly execute a sand shot involves the image of a circle being created during the backswing and follow through
- When in the sand also not the importance of making contact with the sand first and then the sand second. Most golfers will little skill find themselves hitting only the ball. Note a deep divot is not required however a depth of approximately 1 to 2 inches and likewise the same amount of sand behind the ball during impact will be beneficial
Learn how much sand to take by drawing circles in the sand,
First use your s/iron to draw a line of about 2m. In the sand, and then draw at 4 circles in the sand that join the straight line. Place a ball in the 4th. Circle.
In objective is to go along the line from the first circle making a swing so that the sand iron enters the sand at where the line is and then essentially remove the sand from the center of the circle. If successful continue to the next and the next and next and then do the same to the circle that has the ball in it
Adjust your ball to body position and swing path until you can regularly enter the s/iron on the line with out digging too deep. For normal conditions try to think of the swing path more like a "U" shape, where very little sand is taken, as apposed to a "V" shape which causes the club to take far too much sand, and requires a greater degree of skill in the timing of the entry into the sand as well as having the most appropriate ball position to match the acute angle of the downward swing there by producing very inconsistent results, like hitting the ball first and going over the green, or taking too much sand, and therefore staying in the bunker. Where as the "U" shape has a shallower path at the bottom and this will give you more room to allow for different ball positions. In other words less precision is required to get the ball out of most bunkers.
Next we will continue with the different type of conditions that you can experience while playing from bunkers.
Bunker Play: - Other types of lies in Bunkers and how to play from them
- Fairway bunker shot, Aim to hit the ball directly, when selecting the club it is advisable to take one to two clubs more that you think as the ball will tend to come out lower than you expect
- Wet sand, use wedge instead of S/I, or square the face of the S/I, so as to eliminate the bounce on the back of the S/I
- Dry sand - same as hard sand
- Deep sand - usually you will find the ball slightly sunken (not plugged), the trap here is that your feet will also be sunken into the sand more than usually, so either narrow you stance or grip down the club a couple of inches, and ensure that you execute the swing with a full follow through to ensure the best result
- Hard sand (or very little sand under the ball) - use a wedge or square up the face of your sand iron, and swing half of what you would use from a normal lie of the same distance, and deliberately shorten your follow through
- Plugged lie - close your club face enough so that the leading edge will effectively slice through the sand, as the face is now aiming left, adjust your stance so you aim right of the target and expect the ball roll a long way as the ball once it hits the green will develop top spin
- Up hill lie - place your body weight on your back foot
- Down hill lie - place your body weight on your front foot, and prey that God is in a good mood
- Ball above feet - bring feet in closer together or grip down the shaft
- Ball below feet - widen your stance
Bunker play distance control:
- Same club, same swing length & change ball position
- Same club, same ball position & different swing lengths
- Same swing length, Different lofted clubs & same ball position
- Grip Strength (muscular strength modulation)
- Don't be tied down by conventional beliefs, just because you have a S/I in your bag doesn't mean you have to use it, because it may not be the best choice of club for the occasion.
- Also if you feel that you can not advance the ball towards the target because the ball is lying very badly, then you can always go sideways out of a bunker or even backwards, after all it is better to only drop one shot instead of 2 or perhaps 3.
4. Drills and practice tips on how to improve
Hitting from undulating lies
High ball & low ball flight
For higher ball flight you can;
- position the ball closer to the target side foot
- change clubs to one with more loft
- position ball closer to non target side foot, back into the stance
- use club with less loft
For a slice;
- Aim left, being always careful the ball position is indeed matching the adjusted stance
- Aim the club face to the target ( make sure to use more club as the loft has now increased, for example if you choose a 7 iron, the opening of the face will make it become a 9 iron, so also be aware of the distance to the target, and make sure that you have enough club)
- Swing as always along the line of the body, (Do not swing in line to the target)
- Aim right; being always careful the ball position is indeed matching the adjusted stance
- Aim the club face to the target (make sure that you have enough loft remaining after you have closed the face
- Swing as always along the line of the body, (Do not swing in line to the target)
We have discussed how to hit low cutters and high hooks in a previous article, in this article I will introduce you to how to intentionally hit low & high ball flights.
On those occasions where you may part from the straight and narrow, you will probably encounter situations where the only way to go forward is to go under or over the obstacle that in between you and the target.
For higher ball flight try the following options and decide for yourself which is more suitable for you
- position the ball closer to the target side foot
- change clubs to one with more loft
- position ball closer to non target side foot, back into the stance
- use club with less loft
Common aspects relating to hitting from slopes:
- Find the swings lowest point by noticing where the club hits the ground while practicing swinging.
- If at all possible always try to swing up the slope.
- Use a partial swing (less than full swing effort), This will allow for better balance and stability.
- Set up in accordance to the slope, (take note the spine angle at address on a flat condition) Meaning set your body perpendicular to the slope.
- Adjust the width of your stance so as to maintain radius distance from the ball to the chest.
- Ball position will change according to the slope however as a general rule position it in line with the bottom of the sternum.
- Move the center of gravity to the high side of the slope
- Narrow your stance so as to compensate for the ball being a little closer to the body. Feel body weight towards the front of the feet
- The basic ball position is in the middle of the stance, however ideal ball position for the individual is best found by having s few practice swings in a place with the same conditions, then take careful notice of where the club first strikes the ground. The ball will tend to hook or be pulled to the right so allow for this by aiming a little to the right and let it swing up the slope away from the target.
- Widen stance, to compensate for ball being further away
- A wider stance will restrict the body pivot so take more club
- The basic ball position is in the middle of the stance, however ideal ball position for the individual is best found by having s few practice swings in a place with the same conditions, then take careful notice of where the club first strikes the ground
- The tendency is to slice so aim a little to the right and let it swing down the slope away from the target
- As the slope becomes more severe let your weight become stable towards the back leg
- The basic ball position is middle to back of the stance, however ideal ball position for the individual is best found by having s few practice swings in a place with the same conditions, then take careful notice of where the club first strikes the ground
- Partial swing
- Take more club as the loft is increased and the swing is a partial swing
- As the slope becomes more severe let your weight become stable towards the front leg
- The basic ball position is in the middle of the stance, however ideal ball position for the individual is best found by having s few practice swings in a place with the same conditions, then take careful notice of where the club first strikes the ground
- Take a club with more loft to compensate for the de-lofting effect of the slope
- Take care to aim to hit towards a safe landing area
4. Drills and practice tips on how to improve
Intentional ball flights
In order to hit a straight ball the following conditions must be meet at the moment of impact
- Square face. (Face angle perpendicular to the target line)
- The path of the club head is in accordance with the target line.
- The angle of incidence meaning the angle of the face where you can perfectly catch the ball.
The following is based on an ideal model; therefore the degree of success will depend on your individual swing patterns. The is a need to know the relationship club head direction and face angle.
For example
When you swing at the target with an open face the balls goes right.
When you swing from the inside with an open face the ball goes more right.
When you swing from the outside with an open face the ball starts left then goes to the right.
Less loft more side spin.
More loft more backspin.
When you swing at the target with a closed face the ball goes left.
When you swing from the inside with a closed face the ball will go right to left and low as the face as less loft. (With the same club aiming left with an open face the ball goes higher as the face as more loft. but will curve less as there is an increase in back spin.
So generally speaking it is easier to hit right to left than left to right the question is how to chose the right club to achieve to right amount of side spin and yet generate enough backspin so as to keep it in the air long enough to reach the target.
Therefore a wedge will produce backspin easier than a driver, but on the other hand the driver can produce slice spin more easier. However is it hard to hook a ball that will stay in the air for very long due to the decreased loft.
As for hitting from the rough, there is less side spin generated on the ball due to the grass being trapped between the face and the ball, so if you are a slicer, don't allow for to much of your expected slice. And if the grass is not to long, it will effectively take the Back spin off the ball causing the ball to fly further than normal, this is called a "Flyer".
Intentional shots
The is a need to know the relationship of club head direction (path) and face angle, generally speaking your should aim your body where you intend the ball to begin it's flight, and then aim the club face to where you want the ball to finish.
Slice:
Body is aligned to the left of the target, and the clubface is aimed to where you want the ball to land, this effectively increases the loft of the club which in turn reduces the distance that the ball would normally go.
Things to consider are:
- As the loft on the club deceases a slice is easier to produce, alternatively as the loft increases a slice is harder to produce because the greater the loft produces more back spin than side spin.
- Distance you want to carry the ball in relation to how much slice you need to produce.
- How your swing pattern compares to the ideal model for intentional shots.
Body is aligned to the right, and the clubface is aimed to where you want the ball to land, this effectively reduces the loft of the club which in turn increases the distance the ball would normally go.
Things to consider are:
- As the loft of the club decreases the ball will fly lower than normal, therefore take due care in choosing the best club, especially when hitting over hazards
- Generally the shorter the club the higher the hook shot can fly, for example an intentional hook with a long iron will fly lower than normal therefore overall distance carried is reduced
- How your swing pattern compares to the ideal model for intentional shots
Place the ball back in your stance; your hands will be more forward than usual causing the face to become de-lofted.
High:
Increase loft by placing the ball further forwarding your stance, your hands will be less forward then usual creating more loft.
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4. Drills and practice tips on how to improve
What is a pre shot routine
The Pre-Shot Routine
It's not only the tour pros who can benefit from pre-shot routines - your game can benefit too. We will explain how to develop your own, and what to avoid
What is a Pre-Shot Routine (PSR)
It's a puzzle, isn't it - how to hit a golf shot. There are just too many things to consider. Technical stuff about your swing. Environmental considerations, like distance and wind. Strategy, mental stuff, like focusing on the target not the possibility of a bad shot.
A good PSR organises shot making, improves your concentration and sense of readiness, and so helps you play better golf with your existing skill set. It involves getting information (like distance etc.), making decisions, and preparing mind and body for executing the shot.
The Building Blocks
Understanding PSRs starts with understanding how you should be using your attention - what should occupy your mind, and when.
Attention is just like what you decide to focus on. Do you see the trees or the forest? (I.e., Narrow vs. Broad focus.) Are you thinking about how you feel or about what's going on around you? (I.e., Internal vs. External focus.)
A good PSR comprises a series of task-relevant steps in which the player progresses through four stages of attention use - see diagram. This helps direct mental resources effectively - everything that needs to be dealt with is addressed at an appropriate time.
A useful way of remembering the sequence is:
- BE out there
- Bring it In for analysis
- Now Imitate
- Now Enact
By the time you address the ball you should be totally committed to the shot with only one thing left to do - "put a swing on it".
When Attention is Misplaced
Many players have problems in shifting their attention through the stages positively, thoroughly and without looking back. And when attention is used wrongly, common errors appear.
When a player chokes they are likely to be excessively preoccupied with thoughts and feelings - their attention has become fixed in Narrow - Internal mode. Too many swing thoughts usually reflects attention becoming fixed in Broad - Internal mode.
These problems and others (e.g., negative thoughts, feeling pressure, uncertainty about club selection) can often be addressed through working on the PSR and how you use your attention
Bad Habits
Not all PSRs are good. Two bad PSR habits I'd like to mention are:
Time: the player who spends too much time over shots and takes too many practice swings. Common result: too many negative thoughts and too many swing thoughts. Neither produce good results.
Timing: the player who doesn't finish doing one thing before doing another. Common result: confusion and uncertainty. Makes it difficult to hit a decent shot, doesn't it!
Players who work on developing a good PSR will find improvements not only in performance but also in speed of play, clarity of thought, and positive attitude
Getting Your Own PSR
Become aware of your attention skills. Commit to dealing with shot making in a systematic way. Build good PSR habits at the driving range and in your pre-game warm up. Then use it consistently on the course
The machinery of your golf game will work better if you have a good set of operating instructions which you follow
How you deal with each attention stage is personal. For example, the waggle is usually a Narrow - Internal cue to your body, perhaps to help relax muscles or as a reminder of a good swing feeling. Craft it to your own needs.
As you develop your PSR, ensure you shift your mode of attention from one stage to the next. This can be improved through awareness, practice and specific exercises.
If your PSR leaves you unsure, uncommitted or locked in meaningless ritual, review your routine.
Mental preparation and Physical routines
Mental Preparation
Thinking - assess the situation and evaluate all the factors externally that will have and impact on the performance of the shot.
Imagination - the extension of the assessment of the shot and the requirement of the visualization of the golf shot.
Physical Routine
The development of a physical routine that constitutes the following points -
- Grip - placement and positioning
- Alignment - clubface, upper and lower body
- Posture - the athletic position both down the line and front on
- Stance - the lower body positioning relative to upper body support
- Positioning - additional adjustments e.g. waggle, flexion, pivoting required to attain the correct physical position
The swinging of the club is to be divided into two parts. Note also that this can also be altered for practice and playing
Practice - Development of the swing routine whereby the practice swing(s) taken before the shot are a slower of more technically specific swing e.g. drill which develops the technique
Playing - Development of the swing routine whereby the practice swing(s) taken before the shot are specific to either non-specific technical information or linked to a specific swing thought.
In addition to the above routine for play and practice it is important to realize that each shot played on the course will vary and generally the practice situation and environment will remain the same. Therefore note the importance of varying your practice and play schedule as much as possible.
A good routine has technical as well as mental aspects to it that need to be practiced like any other skill.
The technical functions of a good pre-shot routine are:-
- Grip
- Club Head alignment
- Stance and ball position
- Posture
- Target visual reinforcement
- Ball Focus
- Trigger
- Swing and hit
- Analyze wind, terrain, lie, nature of the shot
- Make a definite decision, on the shot to be played
- Visualize shot and swing required
- Sense the ball take off line and trajectory
- Sense the swing feel required
- Move into technical set-up routine
- Focus on the retention of thoughts for ball flight or swing feel/Key)
- Trigger; Total positive commitment to decision and swing
* In addition, to assist with alignment for the stroke, try and select a small mark (either a leaf or different shade of grass) about a foot in front of your ball on the line of the shot to be played. This will give you a reference point to assist in aligning the club head to the target.
* It is simply then a case of maintaining your thoughts for the shot that you wish to play and a feel for the swing that will produce that shot until you hit the ball.
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4. Drills and practice tips on how to improve
Basic strategies for playing the game of golf
Understanding course management
There are two main rules of thumb that the average golfer should be taught in regard to plotting strategy on the golf course:
- Plan to avoid the worst trouble
- Do not plan on hitting perfect shots
It is well known among professional golfers that it is not the quality of good shots, but rather the quality of bad shots, that determine whether a player is successful on tour.
With proper planning, average golfers can reduce the risk of hitting their ball into the worst possible positions.
DO NOT PLAN ON HITTING PERFECT SHOTS
Average golfers are notorious for trying to pull off golf shots with very little chance of success, save for executing the perfect stroke perfectly. It is imperative to allow for a margin of error in planning strategy.
The following are some common situations faced during every round of golf, following the above-mentioned rules of thumb.
TEESHOTS
It is important for the golfer to know if he or she is predominantly a left - to - right or a right - to - left player. If the golfer hits the ball primanly straight , then consideration should be given to the direction of miss hits . For example, If miss hits go primarily to the right, the player should be considered a left - to - right player for strategy purposes. Generally, a right - to - left player should tee the ball on the left side of the tee box ( A ) and a left - to - right player should tee the ball on the right side of the tee box ( B ). This serves to widen the landing area, in effect. If there is severe trouble close to one side of the fairway ( out of bounds , water hazard , difficult bunkering, etc ), then the ball should be teed on that side of the tee-box, regardless of ball flight tendencies ( C ). This will serve to help aim the ball away from the trouble
The tee shot should be aimed so that a straight ball will finish in the fairway. Foe example, a left - to - right player should aim down the left side of the fairway, allowing for the curve of the ball back to the center or right side of the fairway ( D ). Conversely , a right - to - left player should aim down the right side of the fairway ( E ).
If there is severe trouble close to the left side of a narrow fairway, for example, the left - to - right player should tee the ball on the left side of the tee box and proceed as normal ( F ). The right - to - left player may have to aim so that a straight ball finishes right of the fairway, as the normal curve must not allow the ball to come cIose to trouble ( G ) . With the severe trouble close to the right side of a narrow fairway, the situations are reversed, again dependant upon the predominant ball flight
Tip for advanced players:
Note that if the flagstick 15 on the Ieft side of the green, then the tee ball should be planned so it finishes on the right side of the fairway Conversely , if the flagstick 15 on the right side of the green , then plan for the ball to finish on the left side of the fairway ( H )
APPROACHSHOTS
If a flagstick is in the front part of the green, the golfer should aim for the middle of the green instead
There are two reasons for this:
- most golfers under club and leave the ball short anyway
- a less - than - solid shot , the norm for average golfers, will finish closer to high-hole. If the ball is struck well, the golfer still has a putt (i). If the flagstick is on the left side of the green, then the right to - left player can curve the ball into the pin, a perfect attacking position. If the ball remains straight, the golfer still has a putt (J ) . The left - to right player should aim straight at the flagstick, a fairly close putt is the result (K). This is not an attacking situation for the left-to right player, since the ball has to be aimed out-side of the green in order to curve back to the pin. With a flagstick on the right side of the green, the situations are reversed, again dependent upon predominant ball flight
Short iron approaches should be fired at the flagstick, regardless of pin position or ball flight tendencies. Also, if the advanced golfer's ball striking is particularly sharp that day , then most approaches can be fired at the flag
OTHER SITUATIONS:
Average golfers tend to aim their shots right at the flagstick, regardless of intervening trouble. Instead, the rule of thumb , ' ' Plan to avoid the worst trouble ' ' should be followed
For example, with a pin on the right side of the green guarded by a bunker, the ball should be played to the center or the left side of the green, talking the bunker out of play (L).
Another situation occurs when the green is unreachable, perhaps for a second shot on a par five, or when a shorter hitter can't reach the green. If the pin is on the left side of the green, guarded by bunker, the ball should be played down the right side of the fairway, helping to take the bunker out of play on the next Shot (M)
Tip for advanced players:
If there is a bunker guarding the green for a second shot to a par five, go ahead and hit the ball to the pin anyway, as the advanced player should not have too much trouble with a sand Shot.